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-   -   replacing the 350 in my truck (http://www.diychatroom.com/f46/replacing-350-my-truck-180624/)

thehvacguy 05-27-2013 09:37 AM

replacing the 350 in my truck
 
So my engine seized up in my truck so I'm gonna drop a new 350 in it. I figured while I got the engine out I will replace some other things, since the truck has 310k miles on it. I was looking at the motor mounts and I was wondering what benefits, if any, would I gain by purchasing the performance grade motor mounts? Also are there any other parts I should replace while the engine is out? I would rather replace something that isn't broken while I have the engine out, than fuss with it later when it does break...

Windows on Wash 05-27-2013 09:58 AM

Is the engine coming as a Long Block?

New accessories?

No need for the higher performance mounts. They are usually polyurethane and reserved for higher HP and performance applications. They will transmit more vibration to the car at the same time.

There used to be convertible motor mounts (i.e. for convertibles) that were a beefier rubber and had more resistance built into them but that was sort of a Mustang trick.

Might as well flush ever fluid you can.

If the motor is a Long Block with new accessories, there is not much else to change.

Change the fuel filter for certain.

What type of transmission is in the truck?

Break the motor in right as well.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

ready to roll 05-27-2013 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thehvacguy (Post 1188699)
So my engine seized up in my truck so I'm gonna drop a new 350 in it. I figured while I got the engine out I will replace some other things, since the truck has 310k miles on it. I was looking at the motor mounts and I was wondering what benefits, if any, would I gain by purchasing the performance grade motor mounts? Also are there any other parts I should replace while the engine is out? I would rather replace something that isn't broken while I have the engine out, than fuss with it later when it does break...

Replace the radiator, fan clutch, and the throw out bearing if you got a manual trans. Also replace all the hoses including heater hose.

ddawg16 05-27-2013 10:02 AM

Just go with factory motor mounts. The 'high performance' ones are usually poly....which is more dense....and all they really do is transmit more vibration from the engine to your frame.....

Since your doing the engine...replace any rubber...like your hoses...have a look at the radiator....if you see gunk in it....send it out to get cleaned.

Tranny? What kind of shape is it in?

While the engine is out...pressure wash the engine bay....it's much easier to work on a clean truck vs dirty one.....

Inspect the brake lines....

Did the truck come from CA or was it local to where you are now? If from CA...rust is not an issue....yet....if local to Ohio....oh boy....look it over real well.....make sure it's worth putting in a new engine.

Windows on Wash 05-27-2013 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ready to roll (Post 1188725)
Replace the radiator, fan clutch, and the throw out bearing if you got a manual trans. Also replace all the hoses including heater hose.

+1

How old is the Heater Core and is it replaceable from the engine bay?

ddawg16 05-27-2013 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Windows on Wash (Post 1188730)
+1

How old is the Heater Core and is it replaceable from the engine bay?

Good point....a lot easier to get out now....

thehvacguy 05-27-2013 11:07 AM

The 350 is a short block. So far, on my current engine I already have a brand new radiator and hoses, alternator, ac compressor, powersteering pump, thermostat, map sensor, spark plugs, wires distributed cap and rotor, starter and fuel injectors. The tranny is a 700r and it doesn't slip or anything although I have no idea how many miles are on it as I bought the truck only 50k miles ago.

I bought the truck in LA, but it was brought in from Vegas. There is a little rust on the top of the windshield but I intend on running the odemeter over and at some point I will be doing body work on the cab because the guy I bought the truck from slammed on the breaks while having a transmittion in the bed and it dented the back of the cab under the window.

I will replace the fan clutch, I didn't think of that. Not sure about the heater core though. It's an '89 c3500.

Windows on Wash 05-27-2013 11:23 AM

Pretty solid set up between the 350 and the 700R4.

Are the heads being freshened up? Might as well have a valve job and some clean up.

thehvacguy 05-27-2013 11:45 AM

At this point I was just gonna get a good engine off of a buddy of mine and drop it in so she will be back on the road. I intend on rebuilding the engine that I already have so when the next one dies I have a back up. I'm hoping to get my hands on a set of those aluminum heads and whatever other fancy stuff I can get for my baby...

RWolff 05-27-2013 12:18 PM

I had a '69 Dodge 3/4 ton PU with a 318 that one day overheated driving home late from work around 1994, turned out the cause was a factory defect in the block- one of the cylinders had a core shift, so one side of the cylinder was maybe 1/8" thick while the other side was about 1/2" thick, it cracked in the thin section.
I rebuilt a junkyard engine from the block up.

ddawg16 05-27-2013 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Windows on Wash (Post 1188783)
Pretty solid set up between the 350 and the 700R4.

Are the heads being freshened up? Might as well have a valve job and some clean up.

It is....

The later model 700R is a great tranny....real popular with the jeep crowd...it's better than the old TH350...and almost as good as the TH400....but has the advantage of over drive and you can get a manual converter lockup kit for it...works great when your crawling down rocks and want to let the engine do the braking.

hvac....I wouldn't worry about the AL heads....no real advantage over the stock Gen I cast iron heads....you would need to do some lower end work to get any benefit.

If anything....keep an eye out for a Gen III engine....all AL...reverse flow....outstanding engine.

frenchelectrican 05-27-2013 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Windows on Wash (Post 1188730)
+1

How old is the Heater Core and is it replaceable from the engine bay?

Quote:

Originally Posted by ddawg16 (Post 1188734)
Good point....a lot easier to get out now....

Not on chevy truck the heater core will be UNDER the dash panel on the passenger side and I been allready changed few of them before and it will take about 3 to 4 hours avrage.

Window on wash., The only thing you can do very easy from the engine bay is A/C evpatour and blower motour.

Merci,
Marc

frenchelectrican 05-27-2013 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ddawg16 (Post 1188900)
It is....

The later model 700R is a great tranny....real popular with the jeep crowd...it's better than the old TH350...and almost as good as the TH400....but has the advantage of over drive and you can get a manual converter lockup kit for it...works great when your crawling down rocks and want to let the engine do the braking.

hvac....I wouldn't worry about the AL heads....no real advantage over the stock Gen I cast iron heads....you would need to do some lower end work to get any benefit.

If anything....keep an eye out for a Gen III engine....all AL...reverse flow....outstanding engine.

The later 700R4 package do work very well and I have rebuild couple of them with my freind's transmisson shop and what I did is modifed them by useing diesel engine clutch package due the gaz moteur useally have 5 or 6 disc set while diesel verison do came with 7 disc package and it pretty tight plus stronger overrun spring on it.

I am not the only one I blew the 700R4 but my sister did it as well due we both have diesel pick up trucks. so we know what the weak link on them. the issue was too much toqure from the diesel espcally with boosted verison aka turbocharged.

Merci,
Marc


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