Remote Car Starter
I should have done it years ago when I purchased the truck, a 2002 F150. When we purchased the wives car, a 2008 Ford Focus we had a remote car starter installed. One can get spoiled very quickly with such a modern convenience.
We did not have a factory remote starter put in the Focus, it is a bulldog brand and works OK but would like something to tell me if my vehicle is running or not.
I am thinking about putting in a Viper 5301 in my truck. I have read quite a few reviews on the product and most are favorable.
Now my question(s), does anyone have any personal experience with this model? or would recommend another model/brand. I want something that tells me if my truck is running or not. I also want a minimum of a 2,000 foot starting range.
Has anyone installed one of these units in a vehicle? Most of the shops are getting between $200 and $400 for the install. I have been told by the shops that it takes three to five hours to install it. Even at the $200 cost that is $40 bucks an hour for five hours. Call me cheap (the wife does) I like to think of myself as being fiscally conservative. :)
I was able to find directions for an install on another site, the thing that worries me is adding that other module the truck needs (because of the chip in my key). I was not able to find out how to do that.
Usually that "Chip" is nothing more than a few resistors in line to equal a set amount of resistance. No big deal, you will be ok. Some newer vehicles even require an additional key under the dash placed in a special adapter.
Remote starts are nice, so long as the person installing them does a good job.
Have you ever installed one? I was told I would need an add on module to take the place of the key for it to start. They said they needed two keys to program it. I did find online how they programed it, just not sure what I would need and where I would wire in such a module.
Go for it. I used to mess around with this stuff back in the day, but haven't touched it in awhile. For a 2002 Ford, I believe you will need a PATS bypass kit. Shouldn't be too hard to hook up. I believe it just hooks to a negative output of the remote start, and it will have a coil that will wrap around the key cylinder or wires that connect into the PATS module.
The only thing I dont like about habing the key under the dash is would be theifs know this.
I have installed these kits on many diffrent cars. The good kits will have a unit/module that will not require the entire key. Usually the correct resistance is all thats needed.
I know there is no way Id be leaving a spare key under the dash of my 2003 F250 SD or my Mercedes.
You must have a Ford Ranger, because the F-Series trucks did not have the resistors in the keys in 2002 or 2003.
I just noticed you claim to have an F150. Might you have a photo of the top half of the key? The alarm place might just be blowing smoke up your butt. My 2003 SD F250 does not have a special key.
Try this. It has the install instructions:
There's also a lot of good info at www.the12volt.com
Also try www.bypasskit.com
Signed up for the 12volt site last night. That is were I got the install instructions from.
Do you know if the bypass kit comes with instructions on how to install?
Thanks for the links, I checked out the bypass kit and it seams to have a lot of wires going to it. :(
For the redneck bypass, pry the little plastic plug out of your key head; the PATS capsule will fall out. Glue the capsule to the ignition cylinder. (You'll have to experiment to find a spot that will work.) You'll also have to remove the capsules from all your spare keys, since the car won't start if it sees two capsules at once. This method is cheap and easy, but your car is unprotected against theft. And if that capsule comes unglued, the car won't start, not even with the key.
Yes, they have the install instructions online. Don't get intimidated, it shouldn't be that hard. You'll have one wire going to the remote start, two wires going to power(constant, switched), a ground, and two wires going to the PATS module.
Do you have any experience with the tap ts they use now? or should I be soldering all the wire connections? I think I know the answer, not afraid of soldering, I rebuild my own battery packs, it is just the thought of doing it while trying to stand on my head.
It must be a gasoline truck then.
My 2003 F250 Diesel truck does not have that setup.
Course my Diesel does not have a traditional ignition system to cut. :laughing:
I'd still try and avoid the systems that require the entire key. Not only does it defeat the passive anti theft system, it also gives them the key to the ignition lock cylinder.
Remote starts are nice for warming up the car in the AM.
I am pretty sure this "Chip" is just a resistor. I am checking around, but I did find this,
Many Ford trucks, vans and suvs use PATs (passive anti-theft) keys. These keys prevent someone from copying your key to a blank and using the blank. There is a small chip in the key which the vehicle must recognize before it will start.
The PATs key is used on the following Ford family trucks and suvs:
1998-up Lincoln Navigator
1998-up Mercury Mountaineerhttp://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/2.gif
Additionally, PATs can be found on the follow Ford family cars and mini-vans:
1997-up Crown Victoria
1996-up Mustang and Taurus
1998-up 2000-up Lincoln LS
1998-up Lincoln Mark VIII, Lincoln Continental and Lincoln Town Car
1997-up Mercury Grand Marquis
1998-up Mercury Mystique
1996-up Mercury Sable
Following are the instructions for programming a blank key (you must have at least one working key for this procedure).
1. Make sure you have both keys.
2. Turn on car but don't start. Watch "theft" indicator untils it goes out.
3. Turn off and repeat procedure with second key.
4. After "theft light goes out, insert new key and turn on.
5. Wait until the theft indicator goes off and then turn off switch.
6. Wait thirty seconds. New key is now programmed into security module. Repeat for any other keys.
1. Erase any old codes by entering the factory code.(buttons will light up)
2. Press 1/2 button within 5 seconds.
3. Press 7/8 and 9/0 buttons at the same time within 5 seconds.
To set new code:
1. Enter factory code (numbers will light up)
2. Press 1/2 button within 5 seconds.
3. Enter personal 5 digit code(decide beforehand) within 5 seconds of each previous one.
To unlock all the doors,press the 3/4 button within 5 seconds of the driver door unlocking.
To lock all doors and set alarm system,press 7/8 and 9/0 at the same time.
To disarm or reset a triggered alarm,just enter personal or factory code.
Do not set a code with five of the same consecutive numbers. It's too easy for thieves to figure out.
Deactivating and Activating Autolock
To deactivate the "autolock":
With all doors and tailgate closed but NOT locked,and ignition OFF.
1. Enter 5 digit code
2. While holding 7/8 button in, press and release the 3/4 button.
3. Release 7/8 button
The horn will chirp once if the "autolock" was deactivated
or two times if "autolock" was activated.
To reactivate the system,repeat steps 1 thru 3
Alternate Method To Deactivate And Activate Autolock
Do steps  through  (below) within 30 seconds or you'll have to do it over. If you have to do it over, wait 30 seconds between attempts.
Close all doors securely.
1.Turn the ignition key to ON.
2.Press the power door UNLOCK control THREE times.
3.Turn the ignition key from ON to OFF.
4.Press the power door UNLOCK control THREE times.
5.Turn the ignition key back to ON .The doors should lock and unlock.
6.Press the power door UNLOCK control. The horn should chirp ONCE to confirm successful switching of the autolock system.
Ill see if I can find more info, but I think where you got that arrow pointing is where the chip is at.
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