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pbylina 01-20-2014 01:07 PM

Please help me fix my car #3
Hi, so i'm back after some time.:( Unfortunately my car is giving me problems again. The problem is that the car starts and runs, then when I turn it off and try starting it, it won't start. For example, I went to the store the other day, when I came back to my car after about 15 minutes of shopping, the car wouldn't start. I got picked up by my dad and we went home and called the insurance so they can get the towing guy. About an hour later we went back to the car that was sitting in the parking lot to wait for the tow truck driver. I thought that I would try starting it for the hell of it and it started. So I replaced the fuel filter. Then I drove the car around the block a couple of times and parked the car. I turned it off and tried starting it and again, it doesn't want to start. You have to wait some time. So then I did some googling and came to the conclusion that it was the engine cooling temperature sensor. I replaced that and it didn't fix it either. So before I buy another thing I want to ask an expert. I was wondering, because my exhaust system is broken at the catalytic converter connection(not sure if before or after) and smoke is coming out of it - could this have something to do with it? Also had some codes P0118, P1381, P0420. When the car wouldn't try to start I then erased the codes and it started. Also, just now I tried starting it and it kinda sounded like a lawn mower when you don't have the choke on the right setting(its slow puf puf) then you adjust the choke and it goes faster. But what I did is tried giving it throttle and it stalled...If someone could help me out I would appreciate it. Thanks in advance.:)

Edit: Oh yeah, its a 2000 Honda civic EX

Windows on Wash 01-20-2014 07:39 PM

Here goes.

P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input

Read more at:

P1381 Cylinder Position Sensor Intermittent Interruption

Read more at:

I am going to bet the P1381 is your primary culprit.

The catalytic and coolant codes won't shut the car down.

There are some very good suggestion on the wiki page for the P1381. Electrical issues are tough to track down sometimes.

ukrkoz 01-20-2014 09:52 PM

Main relay does. Unless this does not have it anymore. But those were KNOWN to be very temperature sensitive.

Here's all wisdom on Honda start and stall, no starts, and such

Windows on Wash 01-21-2014 06:12 AM

If you replaced the coolant temperature sensor, reset the codes and see what pulls through.

Marqed97 01-21-2014 06:49 AM


Originally Posted by ukrkoz
Main relay does. Unless this does not have it anymore. But those were KNOWN to be very temperature sensitive. Here's all wisdom on Honda start and stall, no starts, and such

Main relay is exactly right. This will cause exactly the problem you're describing: it powers both the ECM and the fuel pump. They warm up then take 30-60 minutes to cool back down. I have resoldered many of these boards over the years.

ukrkoz 01-21-2014 08:18 PM

But we do not know if 2000 model still has it. They were so notorious that Honda might have rid of them by then.

mj12 01-21-2014 10:10 PM

off topic, those Hondas had a series of bad transmissions, I would be very careful

halfbreednerd 02-05-2014 09:15 PM

2000 civic has a main relay. That's where I'd bet your problem is. You can fix them yourself if you are handy w a soldering iron.

eric woodall 04-20-2014 04:48 PM

As a mechanic with 27 years experience, and noticing you had a code p1381, which is a code for the distributor top dead center sensor, I would say you have a failing distributor. You have to have someone test for spark when the vehicle is acting up. If there is no spark you either have a faulty distributor cap or faulty distributor. As far as the car running a little rough, it may be trying to fire worn out (fuel-fouled) spark plugs when spark returns.

eric woodall 04-20-2014 04:52 PM

As others have said, though, a main relay can also cause this problem. If it is the main relay, you will have no power to the fuel injector connectors. This has to be tested with what is called a noid light when the vehicle is acting up. It can be tested by turning the key on with the connector removed from the fuel injector (when car is acting up) and probing both terminals of the fuel injector connector with a test light. One of them should have power on it. If it does not, suspect a faulty Main Relay. And do yourself a favor. Get a new one.

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