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Old 12-27-2011, 12:30 PM   #1
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Please help me fix my car!:)


So my car had a check engine light that was for this transmission solenoid. I changed the solenoid but it did not fix the problem. So I found a electrical troubleshooting flowchart in the service manual and came to the conclusion that one of the 2 wires going to the solenoid was bad.(Shorted?) So I replaced the whole wire going from the solenoid to the computer with a new wire. I had no problems or check engine light for 2 months but now the same check engine light came back. What can be causing the wire to go bad?

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Old 12-27-2011, 12:50 PM   #2
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Ayuh,... Is this any particular Car,..??

They're not all the same ya know...

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Old 12-27-2011, 12:52 PM   #3
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2000 Honda Civic ex
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Old 12-27-2011, 01:26 PM   #4
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Did you replace it with OEM parts?
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Old 12-27-2011, 03:06 PM   #5
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Transmission actuators are simple circuits. ECM, actuator, fused power and two wires. 12 volts is constantly applied to the solenoid and the ECM pwm the ground.
Possible causes: terminal tightness, bad wire, actuator or ECM
Really need to start over and diagnose it.
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Old 12-27-2011, 04:06 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clutchcargo View Post
Did you replace it with OEM parts?
Yes I used a geniune honda part.
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Old 12-27-2011, 04:09 PM   #7
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I'd check the connections then. Sometimes it takes a little extra force to get the wire clips to snap together and into place.
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Old 12-27-2011, 04:28 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 47_47 View Post
Transmission actuators are simple circuits. ECM, actuator, fused power and two wires. 12 volts is constantly applied to the solenoid and the ECM pwm the ground.
Possible causes: terminal tightness, bad wire, actuator or ECM
Really need to start over and diagnose it.
Actuator=Solenoid valve? Its a new solenoid.
fused power=One of the wires going to the solenoid???
Two wires=Yea there are two wires going to the solenoid. The one that was bad I replaced. The other one I think is ground? Would it help replacing the other wire too?

But what causes a wire to go bad, bad ground?

I guess the ECM is next.

Maybe I need a bigger wire...

Last edited by pbylina; 12-27-2011 at 04:32 PM.
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Old 12-28-2011, 08:42 PM   #9
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Wires themselves don't typically go bad unless they are rubbing against something sharp and are cut.

It is the connections or a connector.

If there are connections outside and under the vehicle (dirty wet area), clean them and use dielectric grease.

If inside vehicle, sometimes people force test probes into a female connector, then this ruins it making the hole too large for a snug connection with the male connector. The individual connectors can sometimes be replaced. Like these...
http://www.repairconnector.com/categ...NALS-AND-KITS/
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Old 12-28-2011, 09:29 PM   #10
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I will be changing a terminal pin because the resistance is too high.(170 ohm.)

I have this kind of connector. I need to pull 1 wire out and replace the terminal connector.
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Old 12-28-2011, 09:57 PM   #11
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To get the proper terminal connector, unless someone could tell you on the internet, you would need a factory service manual set of books from alldata.com or the factory dealer. These are typically 4 books to a set, 2000 pages total, and cost about $150.

Or this should be online at alldatadiy.com

Also you can "cheat"! Go to a wrecking yard, get the same connector from a junked car there, then you have a supply of terminals for that connector. Leave several inches of wire on the connector so you can splice the wire to your wire.

Then removing a connector might be a pain or easy. At least you can practice on the junk yard connector.

They do make special tools for removing, testing, and installing the terminals in these connectors. Those tool numbers would be in the factory service manuals.

Here is an instruction manual for a GM dealer repair kit...
http://www.weber.edu/wsuimages/autom...%20Booklet.pdf

Here is that kit...
http://www.acdelcotechconnect.com/pdf/imtn_V11I404.pdf

You can get that kit here for just $8,598.01
http://www.handsontools.com/Kent-Moo...M_p_18516.html

Here is a GM terminal test kit with proper size probes so the terminals are not damaged by testing...
http://www.sandyblogs.com/techlink/2...n-the-web.html
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Old 12-29-2011, 06:11 PM   #12
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"the same check engine light came back." Those are your words. IF you have just the general, generic "check engine" light on, what leads you to think it is associated with this same problem? IMO--most "check engine" lights would have to be diagnosed as to the exact problem(s) which would cause this light to appear.

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