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Old 08-13-2011, 07:05 PM   #31
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Oil Change Question


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Originally Posted by rusty baker View Post
Sorry, in my opinion, all those additives are a waste of money. I remember when STP was the rage. We would tear down an engine and scrape STP out of the pan with a putty knife. I did use a little sometimes to lube new bearings when I had no white grease.
Lucas Oil Stabilizer is different. It's not just thicker oil. It's certainly not magic, nor an overhaul in a can, but it serves a certain purpose.

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Old 08-13-2011, 07:28 PM   #32
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NEVER put Lucas crap in anything you own unless it's a beater on it's last leg. During the 1990's we saw a significant increase in viscosity spread, like a 10w-40. The oil companies did this by using a large amount of polymers. These polymers would condense out of formulation and form sludge which killed many an engine. All that's in the bottle of Lucas is polymers that are designed to thicken the oil, nothing more. If you NEED a thicker oil, buy it in the bottle. Lucas is the poster boy for snake oil extreme. For all of the snake oils on the market, there are less than 5 I can think that have ANY value in the product. Most injector cleaners are nothing more than a dose of kerosene in the bottle. Some are naptha based. Neither are going to do much to your injection system. Techron is the ONLY approved fuel injector cleaner by all auto makers. A good cheap one is Gumout with REGANE but it must say REGANE on the bottle. Both contain the ester cleaners known as the PEAs or polyether amines. The only oil additive worth having is Auto-Rx. It's a blend of lanolin esters like the esters used in the old PAO synthetic oils to cure the seal swell issues. It's a cleaner and can also cure SMALL oil leaks if at seals. It takes several oil changes to complete the clean cycle and the biggest issue with it is, it ain't cheap at $20.00+ a bottle- but it does work.

You didn't say what year model or engine is in that F150. Although some of the engines are backwards compatible to the lighter oils like a 5w-20, I wouldn't recommend it especially for your mileage. The main issue are the rod bearings at the crankshaft. As the engine wears in these rod bearings do not go around the crank in a perfect circle like you might think. They actually go around it in an elliptical shape. It does this naturally and provides for a wedge of oil in the bearing in front of the torque being applied by the piston. A new engine will wear in to the viscosity oil used. A light oil like a 5w-20 will result in less wear and a smaller wedge. Use a heavy oil like a 15w-40 and the wedge gets larger resulting in more wear initially. Going from a heavy viscosity oil to a light one can actually cause oil starvation at the ring packs and engine life short. If you are not having any oil consumption issues, stick with the 5w-30 oils. Pennzoil, Motorcraft, Havoline, Phillips Trop Arctic, Chevron Supreme, Kendall, all use more Gp III base oils in their blends and have the strongest film strengths. They also use less chemistry to achieve the balance necessary meaning fewer additives to deteriorate. The Blends will show the lowest amount of wear metals in analysis. Pick a brand and change at Fords recommended change interval and it'll last a lot more miles.
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Old 08-13-2011, 07:45 PM   #33
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Once again, there is lab data, and then there is real life. Lab data also says that synthetic oils won't help engines turn over easier in extreme cold, but it does.

When my sons & I were doing our lawn mowing business, we went through at least one engine per year. When we started using Lucas Oil Stabilizer (usually synthetic), we never went through another engine. In fact, 7 years later I'm still running one of those mowers - everything having been rebuilt several times, except the engine. Coincidence? Maybe. But maybe not.

I run Lucas Oil Stabilizer in everything I have, and it's hard to argue with the results:
- I recently sold my 97 VW Golf, running strong with over 350,000 miles.
- My daughter's Ford Focus is running perfectly at 228,000 miles.
- My truck I used to pull the mower trailer with is running strong at 219,000 miles.
- Our Volvo, with 214,000 miles, runs perfectly.

Coincidence? Perhaps. But maybe not.
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Old 08-13-2011, 08:05 PM   #34
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The truck is a 1998 4.2 liter v6, long (8') bed. All original.

I'm a few hundred miles over the oil change limit and will probably be a few hundred more miles before I get around to having it changed but so far she's still running like it's new oil, smooth and not that nitty gritty feeling it had after I ran the Sea Foam. I'm guessing that is what happened, the Sea Foam cleaned out deposits and gunk and deposited it into the oil.

We'll see in a few days how black or not black the oil is.
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Old 08-13-2011, 10:45 PM   #35
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I have an 89 Buick with 228,000 miles. No additive has ever been used and it still needs no oil added between changes. The engine has never been touched. Engine life relates directly to care.
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Old 08-13-2011, 11:15 PM   #36
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I have an 89 Buick with 228,000 miles. No additive has ever been used and it still needs no oil added between changes. The engine has never been touched. Engine life relates directly to care.
Exactly. There are very few "bad engines" being put in cars & trucks anymore. It used to be that we felt good if our car made it to 100,000 miles. Now we're upset if it doesn't make 200,000.

Likewise, there are very few bad oils and/or bad oil filters. Under normal conditions, regular foil & filter changes - with whatever brand you choose - will work wonderfully.
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Old 08-14-2011, 04:43 PM   #37
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I actually bought a bottle of that Lucas stuff a couple months ago. After reading the directions, I poured a little on the ground first. Man, it was like Motor Medic or STP it was so thick.
Gave the bottle to a buddy who's car burned oil. Mine is the 4.9 six cyl. and think I'll just go get 6 qts. of high mileage oil and change it myself.
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Old 08-14-2011, 06:59 PM   #38
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I actually bought a bottle of that Lucas stuff a couple months ago. After reading the directions, I poured a little on the ground first. Man, it was like Motor Medic or STP it was so thick.
Gave the bottle to a buddy who's car burned oil. Mine is the 4.9 six cyl. and think I'll just go get 6 qts. of high mileage oil and change it myself.
It's supposed to be thick and sticky. And that's why you only use a little bit per oil change (10% is the recommendation, I believe).
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Old 08-24-2011, 08:47 PM   #39
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I had the oil changed the other day, I think I was close to 1000 miles over the recommended 3000 mile mark and although I walked to a restaurant next door and had lunch while the truck was in the shop I did ask the kid what the oil looked like. He said it was close to 2 quarts low and dark.

Dark I can believe seeing as how I'm driving anywhere from 100 to 190 miles per day but not two quarts low. She was still running too smooth to be that low.

I'll check myself next time.

Thanks for all the very helpful replies, all.
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Old 09-06-2011, 04:15 PM   #40
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400 miles until next oil change and she is still full. The oil is still clean, not dark.
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Old 11-20-2011, 10:23 AM   #41
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400 miles until next oil change and she is still full. The oil is still clean, not dark.
Whether oil is dark, black, or light doesn't mean anything regarding your oil being worn out, or being good! If anything, when being drained, if it's dark, the oil is doing its' job of keeping the stuff the oil filter doesn't trap, in suspension! The ONLY way to know if the oil has lost the additive effectiveness is to send it out for analysis. Oil does not lose the ability to lubricate.

Also, people get too anal about going over the "magic" 3,000 mile point. I've followed the A & B schedules in the owner's manuals on all my vehicles. I have driven them to well over 100,000 miles with no engine failures. I have a '79 dodge 360, still healthy at 199,954 miles I've owned for 30 years.

If you have the money to waste on oil changes every 3,000 miles, and don't mind wasting finite resources, knock yourself out. The oil companies love you! I can't afford it!

BTW, oil additives are pure snake oil. They do more damage to your engine and wallet than you know. Again, if you have the money to waste on them, enjoy. That's the free market working, and I'm all for the free market.

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