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Old 07-18-2011, 08:58 PM   #1
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Oil Change Question


About a month ago I ran a tank of gas with Sea Foam fuel injector/throttle body cleaner. I changed the plugs in my truck just before as well as flushed and filled with fresh coolant the radiator.

I did this work about halfway through oil changes. I had the oil changed in my truck yesterday and it came out black. It never has done that before and I was only about 400 miles over the 3000 mile limit so the question is would the engine cleaner cause that oil to be black? Did it pick up all the gunk and deposit it into the oil?

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Old 07-18-2011, 10:26 PM   #2
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honestly, i am not sure what you are describing. but as a years long Seafoam user, it definitely caught my eye.

i am ASSUMING that you had your oil changed, as usual, at just above 3000 miles. it came out too dark for what you expected it to be? well, it depends on oil. some oils get burnt out fast. some oils turn dark yet still function as a lubricant well. it's not the color, it's the grit in oil that ruins engines.

i drive with Seafoam IN OIL for 5-600 miles before i change that oil, and it does not make it any darker or lighter. tankful of gas with Seafoam definitely wouldn't have done it either.

i have 2 guesses for you.

1. you had substandard oil and it simply burnt out fast. keep in mind, what you see on dipstick and what you see coming out of drain hole is very different. dipstick dilutes oil layer and it looks brighter than what you drain.
2. you have oil blow buy burn out. hot exhaust passes past piston rings and slams into oil in crankcase, happens.

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Old 07-19-2011, 09:18 AM   #3
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Oil Change Question


What did the old plugs look like?
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Old 07-19-2011, 02:49 PM   #4
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honestly, i am not sure what you are describing. but as a years long Seafoam user, it definitely caught my eye.

i am ASSUMING that you had your oil changed, as usual, at just above 3000 miles. it came out too dark for what you expected it to be? well, it depends on oil. some oils get burnt out fast. some oils turn dark yet still function as a lubricant well. it's not the color, it's the grit in oil that ruins engines.

i drive with Seafoam IN OIL for 5-600 miles before i change that oil, and it does not make it any darker or lighter. tankful of gas with Seafoam definitely wouldn't have done it either.

i have 2 guesses for you.

1. you had substandard oil and it simply burnt out fast. keep in mind, what you see on dipstick and what you see coming out of drain hole is very different. dipstick dilutes oil layer and it looks brighter than what you drain.
2. you have oil blow buy burn out. hot exhaust passes past piston rings and slams into oil in crankcase, happens.

Pennzoil 10w-30 and it was gritty. As soon as I changed it the motor started running almost like new again, like butter as they say.

I think it was about six or seven weeks ago that I had the oil changed before this last time. A few weeks later is when I changed the plugs and about a few days after that is when I ran the tank of gas with the Sea Foam so the plugs and oil change at about 1000 miles in and the Sea Foam added a few hundred miles after that and then another 2000+ miles until I recently had the oil changed again, when the old stuff came out black which it has never done in the past going on four years of ownership. This was the first time I've ever used an engine cleaner in this truck, the miles are piling on.

What do you mean by blow by? Is that a part and if so how much do you think it'll run me to have that fixed.? I ask as that caught my attention as the truck doesn't seem to take off very good any longer, for the past four or five months I've noticed this. It used to take off like a rocket, now I just let it get up to speed on it's own so I don't do any damage. Tranny is fine and I need to have the catalytic converter checked but this blow by seems like a very good reason as well, if it can affect the performance.

Will I know next time I change the oil if it's black a bit more? I haven't and won't run any cleaner in the tank this month so that could be a possibility.

Thanks.

Last edited by Doc Holliday; 07-19-2011 at 02:56 PM.
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Old 07-19-2011, 02:55 PM   #5
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What did the old plugs look like?

Not too shabby, in all honesty. Nothing was burned beyond what any normal plug would look like. No oil and the metal was ll there on all the plugs so nothing was burned off.

When I first changed the plugs in it way back when after some months of ownership, a few of the plugs were really noticeably burned up and rightfully so the truck was not running very smoothly. Ever since then I've expected to find the plugs half 'eaten' like back then but it's never been like that since.

I'm guessing it was long overdue for a tune up even before the time I purchased it.
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Old 07-19-2011, 03:05 PM   #6
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Oil Change Question


ok, let me clarify something for everyone.
back in 2002 I bought new Honda CR-V. At that time, I was driving average 1200 miles a week, and put 54 000 miles on that car year one. Hence, at 3000 miles oil changes philosophy, I have learned a thing or 2 about oils, filters, and cleaners, doing oil changes every 3-4 weeks..
Personally, I respect Pennzoil and will not call it a bad oil. In regular oils, I prefer Quacker State though.
But anyhow. Every car takes oil a little bit. You can not seal everything perfectly, there will always be micro leaks here and there. Plus, some oil gets past rings into combustion chamber and burns out there. Some say, half a dipstick per 1000 miles oil consumption is ok. Some say more, some say less, but it happens. It's normal, so to speak.
What is not normal, is excessive oil consumption, or oil burn out. Usually, it is a sign of engine components loosening up, and oil either getting into combustion chambers too much, or exhaust getting into oil. Rings are not sealing too good, exhaust blows by into crankcase, burns oil faster. Oil gets into combustion chambers. Valve stem seals are worn out, allowing oil to drip into chambers. Mitsubishes are bad about this. All of this can be called a blow by burn out, as either exhaust, or oil blows by sealing points.
Seafoam is ABSOLUTELY safe to use. I can vouch for it, as I used it for years and on all cars we owned. Drove on it in crankcase for 2000 miles once, out of curiosity. But what might have happened, it might have loosened some crud that, usually, works as a plug for micro cracks in gaskets/seals, and now oil or exhaust goes by. That's why folks will always tell you - be careful with high mileage cars. Cleaning them sometimes takes opposite effect. I Seafoam my cars every oil change, so I do not have any issues with a bunch of stuff coming loose right away. Mine are clean.
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Old 07-19-2011, 03:11 PM   #7
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Oil Change Question


also, you say "truck". that's a vague definition. Cars that have sprk plugs located in the uppermost center of combustion chambers, resulting in deep plug wells in valve gasket cover, suffer from the above mentioned issues due to plug seals and gaskets go bad. Once again, Mitsubishes (and Hondas) are bad about this.
If you have g'ol GM engine, you should have none of those issues, but folks can call a Highlander a truck, and it does have spark plug wells.
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Old 07-19-2011, 03:43 PM   #8
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Oil Change Question


If the plugs show normal wear and the engine doesn't lope at idle, I wouldn't worry about it.
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Old 07-19-2011, 03:48 PM   #9
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Old 07-19-2011, 03:51 PM   #10
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Being an ac tech and a sub contractor at that I'm putting an average of 145 miles a day on her. I put 187 yesterday.

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Old 07-19-2011, 05:02 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by ukrkoz View Post
What is not normal, is excessive oil consumption, or oil burn out. Usually, it is a sign of engine components loosening up, and oil either getting into combustion chambers too much, or exhaust getting into oil. Rings are not sealing too good, exhaust blows by into crankcase, burns oil faster. Oil gets into combustion chambers. Valve stem seals are worn out, allowing oil to drip into chambers. Mitsubishes are bad about this. All of this can be called a blow by burn out, as either exhaust, or oil blows by sealing points.
Well said and very well explained! I also use Castrol. The shop I used to frequent raced bikes and found 0 breakdown when using Castrol GT (it was before synthetic was available).



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Seafoam is ABSOLUTELY safe to use. I can vouch for it, as I used it for years and on all cars we owned. Drove on it in crankcase for 2000 miles once, out of curiosity. But what might have happened, it might have loosened some crud that, usually, works as a plug for micro cracks in gaskets/seals, and now oil or exhaust goes by. That's why folks will always tell you - be careful with high mileage cars. Cleaning them sometimes takes opposite effect. I Seafoam my cars every oil change, so I do not have any issues with a bunch of stuff coming loose right away. Mine are clean.
While I don't use additives on my motors, especially on my turbo charged motors, I use 100% synthetic instead and change often. I agree, however, that Seafoam is very safe. It also works well when used to clean out the throttle bodies and intakes by drawing it in through vacuum ports, etc.

The "high mileage cars" statement is dead on. The same thing applies to transmissions. Don't get the transmission flush that will "clean out" the dirt in the tranny. Most likely it will dislodge it and it will find its way to the valve body assembly where it will cause the tranny to fail.
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Old 07-19-2011, 09:12 PM   #12
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Oil Change Question


ok, so it's a Ford. well, it is what it is.
1. does it take oil? meaning, does oil level drop too fast comparing to "half a dipstick mark per 1000 miles" standard?
2. if it does NOT, convert your truck to synthetic oil. I'd start with semisynth blend, just to give it a try. It is more liquidy and is prone to sipping through micro cracks that a regular oil will not go through.

when oil changes every 3 weeks finally got to me, I looked into synth oil and switched to RoyalPurple. 10 000 miles between oil changes was a god send.

now I use Amsoil almost exclusively. I change oil, depending on vehicle, anywhere between 12 and 15 000 miles. All cars run like Swiss watches. no, like Swiss chronographs.

as of "oil looked dark" I'd second the other poster. don't worry about it. Run can of Seafoam through crankcase several hundred miles before oil change, flush with flushing oil, refill with Amsoil or RP, use Mobile 1 or Purolator filter, be happy.
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Old 07-19-2011, 09:40 PM   #13
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She doesn't burn oil or leak oil. Always full at every change, the old oil. Yeah, the underneath of the motor has stains but you now what I mean, nothing that would need attention in any way. No drips on the concrete whatsoever. Not even the valve covers leak and this is all original, never had any work done to her. 155+k at the moment.

I've run a high mileage (75,000+) synthetic blend in her before without anything noticeable in performance happening although I'm sure it was better for her, maybe I'll try that Royal Purple you're talking about.
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Old 07-20-2011, 12:18 AM   #14
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ok, so it's a Ford. well, it is what it is.
Yea ok my wife and I own fords with over 300k between two vehicles and have only replaced a sensor here and a coil there.............My wife also owns an acura with 100k on it, it's the biggest POS ever built I think that it cost 10 cents a mile in repair cost ($600 steering pumps/$300 motor mounts, trans,axles) I think you can keep the hondas.


Quote:
I've run a high mileage (75,000+) synthetic blend in her before without anything noticeable in performance happening although I'm sure it was better for her, maybe I'll try that Royal Purple you're talking about.
RP isnt worth the cost $8-$9qt in your case but you can get mobile1 by the case at sams for a good price........run it for 6k-7k and dump it you'll save a bundle over RP. You should try mobile1 or K-N oil filters their only a few $$ extra.

It used to be popular to drain your oil and refill with 50/50 mix of oil and kerosene and let the engine idle for a few min. then drain and fill with fresh oil. It does a hell of a job cleaning out the crankcase, maybe worth a try.
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Old 07-20-2011, 12:52 PM   #15
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oh my...

if you carefully read my posts, I have been through every single oil out there on the market. NOTHING stands to the task as well as Royal Purple or Amsoil do. So yes, they cost more. You also get what you paid for. Also, at 15 000 miles oil changes, it is more cost efficient to use Amsoil, which is GUARANTEED for 25 000 miles, than do even 5 000 mile oil changes. But seriously, let's not turn this into another opinions battle. It is not worth it.

Doc, I simply do not have heart to refer to pickups as "she". I know it's kosher with grammer, but my Silverado is a "he". It's man thing.

I had minor sippage around oil pan gasket on my Silvie. Minor. What I did, was to get under, use a ton of brake cleaner to remove any oily residue along gasket perimeter, and then covered it all with red gasket silicone. Been over a year, it's bone dry everywhere.

Reason I suggested partial conversion is to check if oil consumption will not go up. It's not fiseable to add synth oil, due to cost, to keep level up. So, you go synth blend first, and watch oil level. If it stays where it's supposed to, then next time go full power, full synth.

Amsoil is not easy to come by. I buy mine at local Chevron gas station, they usually have it in stock. If you have it proven that truck is OK with it, then you can buy it online, it's cheaper.

Like I said before, before planned oil change, pour can of Seafoam into crankcase and drive on it for about 500 miles. Seafoam is a petrolate product, 100% competible with any oil. Driving on it, you have high pressure environment when it goes into tiniest places, dissolves and flushes out gunk, and loosens gunk off piston rings. Next, what I do, I go to Walmart and buy a gallon of cheapest oil in proper weight I can find there, usually - Supertech. I drain oil from engine, refill with Supertech, and run engine for 15 minutes, with occasional rev and hold at 2500. or you can simply drive around. Drain that - that was your flush oil (kerosine in engine??) - then remove filter and replace it, refill with good oil. That's it.

I guarantee you will be pleasantly suprised with how well your engine will sound therafter. I have 8 000 miles on Silvie after last oil change, warmed up - you still have to get very close to the truck to actually hear engine run.

Here's my opinion. You need to experiment. Some engines do better with Amsoil. Some do with RP. Maybe yours will do better with M1. None of mine did (we currently have 6 cars in the family, and I use synth oils since 2001, on total of probably dozen cars since then). But no matter what you find, 3000 mile oil changes is so retarded with new engines, that it is still being pushed only for one reason - make Jiffy lubes and dealers richer. There is no other good reason for it. I am not mentioning reasons of the nature " daddy did it that way, I keep doing it that way". Or other sentimental stuff. New engines and new oils are beyond this.

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