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Old 06-10-2013, 11:40 AM   #16
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Before rubbing compound, try using a claybar instead. Worked wonders when I traded paint on my black truck with a blue tahoe. Takes a little less effort than compound too. After you get the most of it off, then I'd do a low-speed with some compound on a random orbital, followed with a high-speed polish.

If compounds won't do anything, wetsanding is not that complicated either.

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Old 06-10-2013, 03:59 PM   #17
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With all due Respect: Get it to a Body Shop already before you make it worse. It takes a lot of practice and the right Tools to straighten this out.
Do you have a Paint-booth? Hydraulic pullers?
This is not a simple Dent-removal, trust me.
And please, don't start drilling holes.
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Old 06-10-2013, 07:01 PM   #18
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Just had the rear tire patched at Discount Tire, took a few more pics. I tried using their tire mallet to pop some of the dent out but no luck. It felt as if I had a heavier mallet and more room to swing it it would pop out or some of it at least.



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Old 06-10-2013, 09:11 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Holliday View Post
rails a concrete pole in the parking lot. .

DOC!!!

How ?? Why ?? Was the parking lot empty...
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:21 PM   #20
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DOC!!!

How ?? Why ?? Was the parking lot empty...
I'll get a pic of the pole and parking lot, just give me 'till the weekend's end. The pole is short and fat and yellow and positioned right where the driveway to the parking lot meets the parking lot. I was making a right into the parking lot on the uphill driveway and decided to make a right u-turn to get to a parking spot right there. Going up hill and the pole being so short I didn't even see it.

Sucks, but lucky I got that truck for about half of it's worth. I can afford to spend it's other halve's value in repairs and a paint job/body overhaul was in the plans already. Just might take a while getting it all done.
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:21 PM   #21
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Take a toilet plunger. Rub some vaseline around the rim of it. Put it right in the center here (see attachment). Push down and pull out.


This type works the best.


The dent below the body line will take a little more work (still not too bad).

The dent on the wheel arch will be the toughest one to get right, but it's possible.
Attached Thumbnails
Kill me now.-imag0880_zpsa650fed8.jpg  
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:24 PM   #22
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That's actually the main part I'm disgusted with. Thanks, I'll try it, just got to get a plunger first and some time.

What about the dry ice thing? I've seen a few Youtube videos of it working.
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:33 PM   #23
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Never tried the dry ice tricks. I'm more used to cutting out bad panels and welding in new metal.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/amdn/se...7619185593260/

...of course, this would require a repaint for sure.
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:41 PM   #24
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that is awesome work! I had no idea you were so talented.

I'm thinking I may find a bed for it and just have the entire truck painted. There's a truck wrecker yard called Bronco's Truck Salvage up north that has a lot of dead trucks. I've gotten a rear complete windshield (manual sliding middle) for $125.00 and the spare tire winch for $35.00. I'm hoping he'll give me a good deal. Mine might not be worth the headache and cost to repair.
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:44 PM   #25
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that is awesome work! I had no idea you were so talented.

I'm thinking I may find a bed for it and just have the entire truck painted. There's a truck wrecker yard called Bronco's Truck Salvage up north that has a lot of dead trucks. I've gotten a rear complete windshield (manual sliding middle) for $125.00 and the spare tire winch for $35.00. I'm hoping he'll give me a good deal. Mine might not be worth the headache and cost to repair.
Maybe you can swap beds with him for a discount.
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Old 06-10-2013, 10:16 PM   #26
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https://www.google.com/#q=suction+de...w=1920&bih=974

Likely not work on a crease though. You can use hammer dent puller, or weld rods and pull, or use good resin to bond rods and pull.
My neighbor does this for around $500, paint job included.
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Old 06-10-2013, 10:44 PM   #28
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or weld rods and pull
Spitznagel.
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Old 06-11-2013, 06:39 AM   #29
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Most shops are going to want to change the box side. With multiple body lines damaged it would take a lot of time to pull it all out and get it to look right. Factory panels are pricey and most aftermarket panels offer thin material and more work to make them fit, they are cheaper for a reason.

If you go with a replacement box anything from a 99-13 will fit right on it. The 11-13's have a slightly different rounded flare around the wheel well where on the older box the flare is flattened. It is not terribly noticeable, but otherwise all the body lines and bolts line up perfectly. Painting a box is not going to be inexpensive either.

On an older box carefully check for rusted bed cross members, they rust out bad. I don't really see that many super duties badly rusted over the wheel wells but most of them have rusted cross members under the bed. Hopefully TX has been more friendly to them than Iowa is.
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Old 06-11-2013, 07:05 AM   #30
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+1 to fixing it yourself.

It won't be perfect and new but you can get most of it out from the backside and clay/compound to get the paint off.

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