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-   -   Im singing the BMW blues....... (http://www.diychatroom.com/f46/im-singing-bmw-blues-189771/)

noquacks 11-04-2013 04:44 PM

Im singing the BMW blues.......
 
People

Its a 2009 328i.

First- the instrument cluster showed ABS light/warning. I heard no way to get into the codes for abs unless one has a scanner. Does this usually mean the abs sensor is bad? If so, I can buy and install, and see what happens.

Second- A month or so later (like, NOW), warning icon - kinda looking like a guy sitting down, with a red colored sphere in front of him, while Im driving. Is this the airbag warning? Seat belt? (I had my belt on).
Got a chilton manual, so Im gonna be reading up o it tonight, meanwhile.

Any tips/advice appreciated.

noquacks 11-04-2013 04:45 PM

Oh- AZ said code reader for ABS is not OBD, but seperate $250++ scannner, which I dont have. he guessed it has to be a bad sensor........what do yous think?

cjm94 11-04-2013 06:08 PM

Being as there is more than one sensor it will be cheaper to pay someone to diagnose it than guess the wrong one.

SPS-1 11-04-2013 07:08 PM

One time, the ABS light came on on my Pontiac. Took it into the dealer. Turned out the brakelight bulb was burned out !!!

raylo32 11-05-2013 05:18 AM

ABS light can be almost anything from a disconnected sensor (or frayed grounded wire for) to a fried ABS computer or actuator. Did you have a brake job lately or change wheels? If so, check the wheel sensors and connectors.

I would try signing up for a BMW forum to see if someone knows where to get/borrow the scanner and how to diagnose because going to the dealer with that one could be *painful*.

noquacks 11-05-2013 06:18 AM

no brake job done so far. I tried a bm forum- one guy advised that this is waaaaay too complicated for even a good diyer. to bring it to a bm expert, if not the dealer, which I will try my hardest to AVOID!!!!!!

cjm94 11-05-2013 06:25 AM

Taking it to a good shop that works on European cars or the dealer just for diag then fix it yourself. A hundred bucks or so for diag is cheaper than guessing one part wrong.

raylo32 11-05-2013 06:57 AM

One other thing to try.... on many cars (not sure about BMWs) disconnecting the battery for a good while (like at least 5 minutes) will allow computers and faults to reset. It won't erase saved codes but might get a computer out of a "stuck" condition. Give ity a try. No cost and nothing to lose.

noquacks 11-05-2013 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raylo32 (Post 1262508)
One other thing to try.... on many cars (not sure about BMWs) disconnecting the battery for a good while (like at least 5 minutes) will allow computers and faults to reset. It won't erase saved codes but might get a computer out of a "stuck" condition. Give ity a try. No cost and nothing to lose.

great idea- are you sure I wont blow up my cumputer disconnectimng the batery? Come to think of it, I will be needing a battery pretty soon, and I heard its not as easy as remove/pop it back in. car needs reprograming. What a pain.......feedback appreciated.

noquacks 11-08-2013 09:15 PM

Update- think a new battery is needed, then I will get to the codes, some which may revert back to normal. . So, trying to search for the right one, and question:

Battery is acting funny, so since its been 4 1/2 years, figured why not just get new now and avoid a no start. Thing is, I heard since our factory batteries come with a "drain" fitting which has attached a plastic drain tube (draining corrosive gasses out/down underneath the car) should my new battery (Sams Club/AZ/Adv Auto) include such a fitting/configuration?

I ran this by a NAPA clerk, and Sam's club clerk, and they said basically, who cares- their batteries are "sealed" anyway, so no gases "gas of'. No worries/irrelevent.

Whats the deal here, people?

cjm94 11-08-2013 11:00 PM

If yours is under the seat inside or in the trunk then yes you need the drain. Sealed only means you can't check or fill the levels. It will still vent gasses and possibly acid when charging with the alternator.
A gell battery is truly sealed though if you want to spend that much.

noquacks 11-09-2013 06:30 AM

Woah, CJ, I didnt know that!! Good thing I checked on that here first. Man, some of those guys that work at sams, sheesh. Guess I'll be shopping for one of those gel batteries. I always thought they were hype/overpriced, but seems maybe they do have some logical reason for the $$$.....

noquacks 11-09-2013 06:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cjm94 (Post 1264244)
If yours is under the seat inside or in the trunk then yes you need the drain. Sealed only means you can't check or fill the levels. It will still vent gasses and possibly acid when charging with the alternator.
A gell battery is truly sealed though if you want to spend that much.


OK, so is the gel the only alternative? I mean, do you think non gel batteries could have that quirky drain fitting on the side top of the battery?

cjm94 11-09-2013 06:33 AM

Yea they are expensive but last longer and can be mounted on there sides even if you have limited space in custom applications

Chokingdogs 11-09-2013 09:29 AM

first off....welcome to the "club" of bmw owners and electrical fun...

the chilton you have is probably scant, in terms of good usable info, so get a bentley manual.

http://www.bentleypublishers.com/bmw...ir-manual.html

theyre not cheap, but you should be able to get one new off amazon for a decent price, or used on fleabay. the above link shows hardcover....not sure why, as mine for my e36 is softcover, and when i got it i think it was around 50 bucks new.

you might be able to get trouble codes through the radio display, not sure if that works on the e90s, google would be your friend in that case.

you didnt say what forum you tried, but if it wasnt bimmerforums.com, give that a shot. before you post any question, check out the stickied/parked threads for info

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...90-E91-E92-E93)

if you dont see anything there, then do a search for the issues. word of warning though, the search function on that site is a PITA, very hard to drill down to specific things, so be prepared to wade through a lot of posts.

if you do figure out what the problem is, say some sensor(s), do NOT get anything from car quap, retard auto parts, autozoneout, etc. only get genuine bmw stuff.

theres several places to get oe parts at good prices, no need to go to the stealer and get hosed unless it's something you gotta have like yesterday.

RM european, autohauzAZ, the bmw parts store, turner motorsport, bimmerworld, tischer bmw ( they go by getbmwparts.com ) pelican parts, to name a few. some of them offer free shipping on orders over X amount, say 75 or 100 dollars.

lastly, if you havent been to it before, cozy up to realoem.com

that site breaks down your car ( enter the last 7 of the VIN ) into all the various sections showing parts, what they are, where they go, and bmw part numbers. take the part numbers and plug them into the above sites to see what they cost, makes it soooooo much easier than trying to find them by name.

good luck!


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