Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Do It Yourself > Automotive Repairs

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 02-13-2013, 04:01 AM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 191
Rewards Points: 0
Share |
Default

General and Specific Questions on Clutch Replacement 2000 Celica GTS


I'm about to do a clutch replacement in my car since the clutch is slipping and I just have some general, as well as some specific questions about the process. First off, the car is a 2000 Toyota Celica GT-S with 80,000 miles with Manual Transmission (obviously manual trans). It's a front wheel drive car. This is my first time doing a clutch replacment, so I have a few questions about the process. Please feel free to answer what you feel comfortable or knowledgeable answering, I know this is a long list of questions so just answer whatever you have the time for. I appreciate it, thanks

1) Is there anything one can do to inspect the clutch system to make sure something can be adjusted or not to fix a slipping clutch before tearing apart your car to get to the transmission? I have a hydraulic clutch I believe, and was just wondering if there was something I could adjust or fix to get a clutch to not slip... like bearing free travel or seeing if fluid was low in the clutch master cylinder or something?

2)Once I complete my clutch replacement, will I need to get a wheel alignment done? I will be removing lots of components, such as the front axle, and thought this may affect alignment.

3)Are you supposed to replace the rear main seal when doing a clutch replacement? Is this normally replaced when people replace their clutches? If so, how long would this take a general DIY'er to do?

4)If it isn't necessary to replace a rear main seal, how long do they generally last before they leak oil?

5)I don't really understand how to tell the difference between a clutch slipping and a transmission slipping. How can one tell if it is their clutch that is slipping and not their transmission? I would think they would cause similar symptoms.

6)Currently, my car's symptoms are that the RPM revs up without much acceleration, especially in the higher gears, and then will later rev down and the clutch plate will engage the flywheel. Over the past few months, it now can affect the lower gears as well... hallmark symptoms of a clutch slipping. But wouldn't a transmission slipping cause the same symptoms?

7)I have heard that if you change transmission fluid in a car that is old, it can destroy the transmission since it has gotten "used to" the old trans fluid, and when you add the new fluid... the transmission can go bad within a few thousand miles. Does this theory apply to manual transmissions? Or does it only apply to automatic transmissions? (I never changed my fluid but will probably do so when I do the clutch repair since I have to drain the transmission anyways. I never changed the fluid since the manual stated it was only necessary if driven in "harsh" conditions such as towing, dust, etc)

8)If I do replace the transmission fluid with new fluid, do I have to replace it soon after again... like in 5,000 miles of driving... in order to get rid of any remaining old fluid? Or can I just leave whatever is in there for at least 30,000 miles or more before I do another drain and refill?

9)Should I replace the pilot bearing (this is different than the throw out bearing)? I don't want to if it isn't necessary, but if it is, how long would you estimate it takes a regular DIY'er to do this? (At the moment, all I'm definitely replacing is: new clutch disc, new pressure plate, new throw out bearing, resurfacing the flywheel, using new OEM flywheel bolts)

10)Is there any issue with using a little bit of regular lithium grease on the face of the throw out bearing? I saw a video on youtube of a mechanic that uses a small dab of high temperature lithium grease on the faces of throw out bearings before installation (I don't have any high temp, but I have regular lithium grease).


Phew, told you I had a lot of questions Anyways, if you've gotten this far, I appreciate you even reading my post. Thanks in advance for any answers, I appreciate it. Take care.


Last edited by amodoko; 02-13-2013 at 04:07 AM.
amodoko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2013, 05:47 AM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 122
Rewards Points: 0
Default

General and Specific Questions on Clutch Replacement 2000 Celica GTS


Quote:
Originally Posted by amodoko View Post
I'm about to do a clutch replacement in my car since the clutch is slipping and I just have some general, as well as some specific questions about the process. First off, the car is a 2000 Toyota Celica GT-S with 80,000 miles with Manual Transmission (obviously manual trans). It's a front wheel drive car. This is my first time doing a clutch replacment, so I have a few questions about the process. Please feel free to answer what you feel comfortable or knowledgeable answering, I know this is a long list of questions so just answer whatever you have the time for. I appreciate it, thanks

1) Is there anything one can do to inspect the clutch system to make sure something can be adjusted or not to fix a slipping clutch before tearing apart your car to get to the transmission? I have a hydraulic clutch I believe, and was just wondering if there was something I could adjust or fix to get a clutch to not slip... like bearing free travel or seeing if fluid was low in the clutch master cylinder or something?

No adjustment, you need the clutch.

2)Once I complete my clutch replacement, will I need to get a wheel alignment done? I will be removing lots of components, such as the front axle, and thought this may affect alignment.

If you remove or disturb a strut, you need alignment.

3)Are you supposed to replace the rear main seal when doing a clutch replacement? Is this normally replaced when people replace their clutches? If so, how long would this take a general DIY'er to do?

Absolutely do the rear main. Five dollars more into a $1000 job by itself would be foolish not to.

4)If it isn't necessary to replace a rear main seal, how long do they generally last before they leak oil? See 3.

5)I don't really understand how to tell the difference between a clutch slipping and a transmission slipping. How can one tell if it is their clutch that is slipping and not their transmission? I would think they would cause similar symptoms.

Clutch is your issue.

6)Currently, my car's symptoms are that the RPM revs up without much acceleration, especially in the higher gears, and then will later rev down and the clutch plate will engage the flywheel. Over the past few months, it now can affect the lower gears as well... hallmark symptoms of a clutch slipping. But wouldn't a transmission slipping cause the same symptoms?

Clutch period.

7)I have heard that if you change transmission fluid in a car that is old, it can destroy the transmission since it has gotten "used to" the old trans fluid, and when you add the new fluid... the transmission can go bad within a few thousand miles. Does this theory apply to manual transmissions? Or does it only apply to automatic transmissions? (I never changed my fluid but will probably do so when I do the clutch repair since I have to drain the transmission anyways. I never changed the fluid since the manual stated it was only necessary if driven in "harsh" conditions such as towing, dust, etc)

Manual tranny, change fluid and use 3309 or whatever manufacturer recommends. Automatics are temperamental but not so much with sticks.

8)If I do replace the transmission fluid with new fluid, do I have to replace it soon after again... like in 5,000 miles of driving... in order to get rid of any remaining old fluid? Or can I just leave whatever is in there for at least 30,000 miles or more before I do another drain and refill?

No need.

9)Should I replace the pilot bearing (this is different than the throw out bearing)? I don't want to if it isn't necessary, but if it is, how long would you estimate it takes a regular DIY'er to do this? (At the moment, all I'm definitely replacing is: new clutch disc, new pressure plate, new throw out bearing, resurfacing the flywheel, using new OEM flywheel bolts)

YES. Do the pilot bearing. It is the center support in the rear of the crank and supports the shaft. Different from the throw out. I'd save a good day for this and make sure you have the equipment necessary to do this before turning the first bolt. On Volvo I have to drop the subframe but not sure about yours. Above all, when working under the car, USE JACKSTANDS. Safety is paramount.
This is a big job and you should have a manual handy. Read, read, and read again before the first wrench hits the first bolt.

10)Is there any issue with using a little bit of regular lithium grease on the face of the throw out bearing? I saw a video on youtube of a mechanic that uses a small dab of high temperature lithium grease on the faces of throw out bearings before installation (I don't have any high temp, but I have regular lithium grease).

NO don't do it.
Friction surfaces do not need slinging grease in the vicinity.

Phew, told you I had a lot of questions Anyways, if you've gotten this far, I appreciate you even reading my post. Thanks in advance for any answers, I appreciate it. Take care.
Report back please, and others will share in your success or pain, and probably both!

64pvolvo1800 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2013, 06:23 AM   #3
Master General ReEngineer
 
Bondo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Chaumont River, Ny.
Posts: 3,683
Rewards Points: 0
Default

General and Specific Questions on Clutch Replacement 2000 Celica GTS


Quote:
9)Should I replace the pilot bearing (this is different than the throw out bearing)? I don't want to if it isn't necessary, but if it is, how long would you estimate it takes a regular DIY'er to do this? (At the moment, all I'm definitely replacing is: new clutch disc, new pressure plate, new throw out bearing, resurfacing the flywheel, using new OEM flywheel bolts)
Ayuh,... I'd replace the pilot bearin', as yer already there,...

Rear main seals, Usually last the life of the motor...

'n, Manual transmissions don't slip, it's Mechanical, gears can't slip like an automatic...

'n lastly,... Ya might oughta consider pullin' the Motor, rather than the transmission to do the job...
Bondo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2013, 12:57 PM   #4
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: cleveland ohio
Posts: 445
Rewards Points: 0
Default

General and Specific Questions on Clutch Replacement 2000 Celica GTS


You might as well invest in a factory service manual. You can find them cheap on ebay. Hanynes and the such are not very good. I would not introduce any grease into that whole assembly unless specifically told to do so in a factory service manual. As for resurfacing the flywheel, probably not necessary. Rear main, your call. Pilot bearing, yeah probably. An alignment, no. I would go ahead and replace the master and slave cylinder if they are not to expensive. Buy high quality parts as well. I would go over to the Toyota forums for the specfics of the job. Probably not that hard just a lot of labor.
paintdrying is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2013, 03:23 AM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 191
Rewards Points: 0
Default

General and Specific Questions on Clutch Replacement 2000 Celica GTS


I really appreciate everyone's responses... since this is my first time doing it, this information really helps me understand a bit more about what needs to be done. So thanks a bunch.

I am lucky enough to have a factory service manual in pdf, it has helped me greatly. But I still had some lingering questions that I wanted to clear up before I went ahead and did this so that's why I asked so many questions.

After doing some research, it seems that my car doesn't even have pilot bearing... at least from what I have seen online and the manual doesn't mention it either. So that will save me some work if there isn't one. And I may just skip out on doing the rear main seal if they are supposed to last the life of the motor, since I don't want to mess that up with a new seal and possibly cause a leak. I'm not worried about the cost of the seal, just my skills in placing it correctly. But I may change my mind as I read up on how to do this properly.

I always thought manual transmissions could slip even though they were mechanical. Guess I was wrong. I know they can definitely become difficult to shift due to wear/bad trans fluid, but I assumed they could slip too.

I actually assumed that pulling the motor would be the way to go, but much of the instructions from other online owners of my car have simply just pulled the trans. They say either way is difficult due to it being a FWD car.

Anyways, I greatly appreciate all the responses. It helped me out a ton. You guys rock!
amodoko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2013, 08:09 AM   #6
Master General ReEngineer
 
Bondo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Chaumont River, Ny.
Posts: 3,683
Rewards Points: 0
Default

General and Specific Questions on Clutch Replacement 2000 Celica GTS


Quote:
Originally Posted by amodoko View Post
I really appreciate everyone's responses... since this is my first time doing it, this information really helps me understand a bit more about what needs to be done. So thanks a bunch.

I am lucky enough to have a factory service manual in pdf, it has helped me greatly. But I still had some lingering questions that I wanted to clear up before I went ahead and did this so that's why I asked so many questions.

After doing some research, it seems that my car doesn't even have pilot bearing... at least from what I have seen online and the manual doesn't mention it either. So that will save me some work if there isn't one. And I may just skip out on doing the rear main seal if they are supposed to last the life of the motor, since I don't want to mess that up with a new seal and possibly cause a leak. I'm not worried about the cost of the seal, just my skills in placing it correctly. But I may change my mind as I read up on how to do this properly.

I always thought manual transmissions could slip even though they were mechanical. Guess I was wrong. I know they can definitely become difficult to shift due to wear/bad trans fluid, but I assumed they could slip too.

I actually assumed that pulling the motor would be the way to go, but much of the instructions from other online owners of my car have simply just pulled the trans. They say either way is difficult due to it being a FWD car.

Anyways, I greatly appreciate all the responses. It helped me out a ton. You guys rock!
Ayuh,.... It's either got a pilot bearing, or a pocket bushing,...

To remove either, fill the hole with Grease,...
Then with a snug fitting dowel, drive the dowel into the hole filled with grease...
That'll push the bearin'/ bushin' Out....
Then clean up the mess, 'n tap in the new 1....

Btw,.... I completely disagree with paintdrying, 'bout resurfacin' the flywheel,...
Even if ya think it's smooth enough, get it resurfaced...

I've been there, 'n done that,...
Doin' it a 2nd time, sucks worse than the 1st time, because ya Didn't reface the flywheel...
Bondo is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Bondo For This Useful Post:
amodoko (02-15-2013)
Old 02-14-2013, 08:14 PM   #7
Member
 
ukrkoz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 571
Rewards Points: 0
Default

General and Specific Questions on Clutch Replacement 2000 Celica GTS


amodoko;1116295]I'm about to do a clutch replacement in my car since the clutch is slipping and I just have some general, as well as some specific questions about the process. First off, the car is a 2000 Toyota Celica GT-S with 80,000 miles with Manual Transmission (obviously manual trans).

Awfully early for clutch job, unless car was raced, or driver does not know how to drive clutch

It's a front wheel drive car. This is my first time doing a clutch replacment, so I have a few questions about the process. Please feel free to answer what you feel comfortable or knowledgeable answering, I know this is a long list of questions so just answer whatever you have the time for. I appreciate it, thanks

OK, you have manual.

1) Is there anything one can do to inspect the clutch system to make sure something can be adjusted or not to fix a slipping clutch before tearing apart your car to get to the transmission? I have a hydraulic clutch I believe, and was just wondering if there was something I could adjust or fix to get a clutch to not slip... like bearing free travel or seeing if fluid was low in the clutch master cylinder or something?

BLEED THE CLUTCH CYLINDER!!!!!
BLEED THE CLUTCH CYLINDER!!!!!

2)Once I complete my clutch replacement, will I need to get a wheel alignment done? I will be removing lots of components, such as the front axle, and thought this may affect alignment.

NO. You should remove only half shafts, wheels, undo tie rod end on one side, and scoot strut off to the side. Trannie goes down and out. IF you have to remove strut, then yes.

3)Are you supposed to replace the rear main seal when doing a clutch replacement? Is this normally replaced when people replace their clutches? If so, how long would this take a general DIY'er to do?

No, but if you there - do it. It's five minute job. Screwdriver, pry old one out, place new one in, tap in place with mallet. Also, replace pressure plate bearing.

4)If it isn't necessary to replace a rear main seal, how long do they generally last before they leak oil?

They last long long time. Entire replacement sounds tooo premature.


5)I don't really understand how to tell the difference between a clutch slipping and a transmission slipping. How can one tell if it is their clutch that is slipping and not their transmission? I would think they would cause similar symptoms.

Slipping clutch feels like this:
1. it starts smelling of burnt brakes
2. going up hill becomes an issue
3. Taking off becomes an issue
4. Car starts jerking at take off. It's a long process and does not happen overnight.
5. If you have good parking brake, here's simple test:
engage parking brake, and well; start engine, press on clutch pedal and engage 1st gear. Slowly release clutch pedal. If engine jerks and stalls - YOUR CLUTCH IS GOOD!!! If engine keeps running and it starts smelling burnt - clutch is slipping.


6)Currently, my car's symptoms are that the RPM revs up without much acceleration, especially in the higher gears, and then will later rev down and the clutch plate will engage the flywheel. Over the past few months, it now can affect the lower gears as well... hallmark symptoms of a clutch slipping. But wouldn't a transmission slipping cause the same symptoms?

7)I have heard that if you change transmission fluid in a car that is old, it can destroy the transmission since it has gotten "used to" the old trans fluid, and when you add the new fluid... the transmission can go bad within a few thousand miles. Does this theory apply to manual transmissions? Or does it only apply to automatic transmissions? (I never changed my fluid but will probably do so when I do the clutch repair since I have to drain the transmission anyways. I never changed the fluid since the manual stated it was only necessary if driven in "harsh" conditions such as towing, dust, etc)

That's for ATF; you have gear oil. It's high viscosity oil. Buy some Amsoil, though expensive, but it will make your trannie run like a Swiss watch and does not need change in several hundred thousand miles. But yes, you'd be better off having oil changed.

8)If I do replace the transmission fluid with new fluid, do I have to replace it soon after again... like in 5,000 miles of driving... in order to get rid of any remaining old fluid? Or can I just leave whatever is in there for at least 30,000 miles or more before I do another drain and refill?

See above.

9)Should I replace the pilot bearing (this is different than the throw out bearing)? I don't want to if it isn't necessary, but if it is, how long would you estimate it takes a regular DIY'er to do this? (At the moment, all I'm definitely replacing is: new clutch disc, new pressure plate, new throw out bearing, resurfacing the flywheel, using new OEM flywheel bolts)

Yes. See above.

10)Is there any issue with using a little bit of regular lithium grease on the face of the throw out bearing? I saw a video on youtube of a mechanic that uses a small dab of high temperature lithium grease on the faces of throw out bearings before installation (I don't have any high temp, but I have regular lithium grease).

No. But it'll stink when it burns.


Phew, told you I had a lot of questions Anyways, if you've gotten this far, I appreciate you even reading my post. Thanks in advance for any answers, I appreciate it. Take care.

I do not think, you have bad clutch plate. Do parking brake test. If parking brake is no good, slowly drive your car towards a solid wall, so that bumper is flush against it. Then engage 1st and release clutch. If she stalls, clutch is good. Most likely, air in the system and needs to be bled. I can't tell over an email, I judge by foot feel in the clutch pedal.
ukrkoz is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ukrkoz For This Useful Post:
amodoko (02-15-2013)
Old 02-14-2013, 08:24 PM   #8
Member
 
ukrkoz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 571
Rewards Points: 0
Default

General and Specific Questions on Clutch Replacement 2000 Celica GTS


Oh, and make sure, you have clutch plate guide. I usually make them out of a tree branch or a stick, but you may buy a universal one in any parts store. BIG MISTAKE if you do NOT have one.
ukrkoz is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ukrkoz For This Useful Post:
amodoko (02-15-2013)
Old 02-15-2013, 09:12 AM   #9
Master General ReEngineer
 
Bondo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Chaumont River, Ny.
Posts: 3,683
Rewards Points: 0
Default

General and Specific Questions on Clutch Replacement 2000 Celica GTS


Quote:
1) Is there anything one can do to inspect the clutch system to make sure something can be adjusted or not to fix a slipping clutch before tearing apart your car to get to the transmission? I have a hydraulic clutch I believe, and was just wondering if there was something I could adjust or fix to get a clutch to not slip... like bearing free travel or seeing if fluid was low in the clutch master cylinder or something?

BLEED THE CLUTCH CYLINDER!!!!! BLEED THE CLUTCH CYLINDER!!!!!
Ayuh,.... If the master, 'n slave needs bleedin', it'll cause the clutch to Not disengage....

If the clutch is Slippin', the clutch plate is burnt out...

The symptoms are Backwards to think it needs bleedin'.....

'n,... I agree that this is premature,... I gotta believe the driver rides the clutch pedal...
A clutch should last several hundred thousand miles... it's been Abused...
Bondo is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Bondo For This Useful Post:
amodoko (02-15-2013)
Old 02-15-2013, 11:30 AM   #10
Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 191
Rewards Points: 0
Default

General and Specific Questions on Clutch Replacement 2000 Celica GTS


Hey Bondo, thanks for the clarification, if it either has a pilot bearing or pocket bushing... I'll try to find the part. So far I haven't had any luck finding information on either, but I also haven't looked that much yet.

And yeah, resurfacing a flywheel always seems to be controversial. Some people say do it, while others say they've never had to. This being my first time doing it, I'm definitely going to get it resurfaced since I don't want to mess this up at all.

And to reply to it being early for this clutch wearing out, I agree. The primary reason being that this car has been driven by several different drivers that were new to manual transmissions. Basically, several people learned how to drive a manual transmission on this car. So the clutch has been abused a great amount by different people... especially within the first 50,000 miles. It no longer is used for teaching though, but early in its life it was. The only thing I can say about it not being terribly early though, is I have talked to other people that have owned this car online and the majority of them have had their clutch slipping prior to 100K miles, so maybe this clutch burns up quick. But this may be due to the type of drivers this somewhat sporty car attracts that enjoy pushing the car close to its limits. I have heard of people that have gotten this car to 160K miles without any clutch slipping, so it is possible to do this with normal driving. In addition, I don't know if the car being 13 years old can cause the clutch to wear. To be more specific, I know age itself shouldn't affect the amount of clutch pad wear, but maybe it could affect the strength of springs/etc that create pressure to push the clutch disc against the flywheel... since the clutch is engaged even when the car is off (at least I thought it was always engaged unless you press down on the clutch pedal) I would think that age could then affect the strength of the forces that push down against the clutch disc. Kind of like if you constantly press down on a spring, over time, the spring will lose some of its potential forces.

And urkoz, thanks for your replies as well, but I kind of agree with Bondo with regards to bleeding the clutch as long as the source of pressure that engages the clutch disc is a mechanical force (with the little knowledge that I have). I would think bleeding the clutch would not make a difference in decreasing the amount a clutch slips if my crude knowledge on cars is correct. The reason being, when you push down on the clutch pedal, it disengages the clutch disc from the flywheel. If the clutch hydraulic lines had air in them or bad fluid, it would make the transfer of pressure through the clutch lines worse, which would then make it more difficult to disengage the clutch disc, NOT engage, the clutch disc from the flywheel. The only way I would think that bleeding the clutch would help, is if the pressure applied to the clutch disc is coming from the pressure within the clutch hydraulic lines (either directly or indirectly). I'm assuming the source of pressure applied to the clutch disc is coming from a mechanical force (like a spring or something). But like I said, I don't know much about cars, so you could be right (especially if the source of the pressure is the clutch fluid lines), but just on what little I know it seems like bleeding the clutch shouldn't logically make a difference.

Actually, if anyone knows, what is the SOURCE of pressure that pushes the clutch disc against the flywheel?
(this would clear up the confusion on whether bleeding the clutch lines should make a difference or not) I have heard the throw out bearing pushes against the clutch pressure plates fingers which then push the clutch disc against the flywheel... but what is the source of pressure that pushes the throw out bearing against the pressure plate? Is it a spring, etc?

In addition, I do have a clutch plate guide fortunately. I bought a clutch set, so it came with the throw out bearing, cluch disc, clutch pressure plate, clutch guide tool, and grease for the spline.

Also, I have heard of the clutch slip test urkoz, I will have to give that a try before I do the repair. But I'll do that in second gear since that will be less harsh than 1st.

Last edited by amodoko; 02-15-2013 at 11:52 AM.
amodoko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-2013, 01:52 PM   #11
Master General ReEngineer
 
Bondo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Chaumont River, Ny.
Posts: 3,683
Rewards Points: 0
Default

General and Specific Questions on Clutch Replacement 2000 Celica GTS


Quote:
Actually, if anyone knows, what is the SOURCE of pressure that pushes the clutch disc against the flywheel?
Ayuh,... Anytime the pedal isn't bein' pushed, the Pressure Plate holds the disc firmly against the flywheel...

Pushin' on the pedal causes the throw-out bearin' to disengage the pressure plate from the clutch disc, 'n relieves it's pressure against the flywheel...
This is also the only time the pilot bushin' or bearin' sees rotational motion, as the trans is not turnin' with the motor anymore....

I've got rigs with 50 year old clutches, that haven't lost spring pressure from the pressure plate, so it ain't common,...
But,...
Anything is Possible... pressure plates, Can go Bad...
Bondo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-2013, 09:03 PM   #12
Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 191
Rewards Points: 0
Default

General and Specific Questions on Clutch Replacement 2000 Celica GTS


Awesome, makes sense. I read up some more on clutches, this is a great little animation (you have to click on it) as well as description on clutches:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch1.htm

With the above animation, it would definitely make sense that bleeding the clutch would not help at all with clutch slippage.

And I still have not found any information on if I have a pilot bearing or some bushing (besides the throw out bearing) that can be replaced. I found a picture of someone with the same car as mine with an image of where a pilot bearing would be found, and I see none. I posted it below. So it doesn't seem I have a bearing (besides the throw out bearing) that is meant to be replaced when a clutch replacement is done.

Also, did some more research, and the causes of clutch slipping in my car per the service manual are 1) oil on disc 2) worn out clutch plate 3)clutch pedal free play needs to be adjusted 4) or it has issues with the pressure plate/disc/throw out bearing/clutch fork. Basically, the only things you can check are clutch pedal free play, and then if that doesn't work you must take the car apart to look at the clutch/replace/fix parts. It said the clutch line being bled would help only if the clutch had issues disengaging completely from the flywheel... in that case bleeding would help it engage better.

Anyways, with the photos posted below of what my car looks like at the crank/rear main seal, it looks as though there is no pilot bearing or bushing that I can remove. What do you think Bondo? By the way, the photos represent the same car I have, but this isn't my car... it is from another DIY guy.
Attached Thumbnails
General and Specific Questions on Clutch Replacement 2000 Celica GTS-dsc01727.jpg   General and Specific Questions on Clutch Replacement 2000 Celica GTS-dsc01731.jpg   General and Specific Questions on Clutch Replacement 2000 Celica GTS-dsc01740.jpg  
amodoko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-16-2013, 06:20 AM   #13
Master General ReEngineer
 
Bondo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Chaumont River, Ny.
Posts: 3,683
Rewards Points: 0
Default

General and Specific Questions on Clutch Replacement 2000 Celica GTS


Quote:
Anyways, with the photos posted below of what my car looks like at the crank/rear main seal, it looks as though there is no pilot bearing or bushing that I can remove. What do you think Bondo?
Ayuh,.... Take it apart, 'n Look....

There's gotta be something to stabilize the shaft...
Bondo is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Bondo For This Useful Post:
amodoko (02-16-2013)
Old 02-16-2013, 09:08 AM   #14
Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 191
Rewards Points: 0
Default

General and Specific Questions on Clutch Replacement 2000 Celica GTS


Sounds good, will do and will follow up once I'm done. Thanks a bunch bud, much appreciated.
amodoko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-16-2013, 05:30 PM   #15
Member
 
ukrkoz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 571
Rewards Points: 0
Default

General and Specific Questions on Clutch Replacement 2000 Celica GTS


You know, with all the scientific discussion and Ayuh-s, you could have spent ten minutes bleeding the system, which is super easy, and another 5 doing stall test. But if you want to tear it all apart, and toss a bunch of money and elbow grease on it - fine by me.

ukrkoz is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Installing radiant heating in a basement and general basement questions... CarlsonRower General DIY Discussions 6 12-09-2011 12:32 AM
General Insulation Questions Drizzt Insulation 18 11-03-2011 03:12 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.