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Old 01-20-2013, 09:50 PM   #16
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fuel injected running rich, way rich, like Donald trump rich...


Ok so it warmed up into the 20's today so I was able to take a look at my truck. I was able to locate the MAP sensor between the intake manifold and the distributed. It looks like an easy fix. I'm gonna change the o2 sensor and that MAP sensor this week and see what happens. Also I bought those fancy Bosch platinum spark plugs with a lifetime warranty so I'm gonna swap those out cause they are covered with grime. I just changed the thermostat about a month ago but the housing is cracked so I need to get a new one of those... There are 2 vaccume lines coming out of the front of the intake manifold that are plugged with screws, I don't know where they go though... I also need to buy that oval to round rubber thing that goes from the air filter to the left side of the engine compartment but I don't know what its called... I also bought a performance chip on e bay for 10 bucks hopefully that will help my fuel economy... I'm not sure what a cataletic converter even looks like but I know when I got my truck smogged he put n/a next to cataletic converter, but I did pay him to pass it so I don't know if I do have one or not. Are there any other sensors I should change that I don't know about? I changed the temp sensor but that's about it...

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Old 01-20-2013, 09:56 PM   #17
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Oh, I know my truck origionally came with a 454. Only like 1% of these trucks had a oem 350. I don't know how many miles are on this 350 but its running great. The fuel injectors are pumping out gas and its not misfiring at all at the engine. But you can see and hear puffs of smoke coming out the exhaust. It's chugging like an old truck but its not the engine. I did however discover an exhaust leak between the exhaust manifold and the other pipe it connects to under the truck. The smoke is actually leaking up into the engine compartment which might be bad cause I'm kissing that piece that connects to the air filter... And I took out the air filter cause it was clogged up and I'm broke til I get paid tomorrow
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:19 PM   #18
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fuel injected running rich, way rich, like Donald trump rich...


And when you are buying those replacement sensors, are you telling them it is for a...

1989 Chevy c3500 with a 454?

Or for an [unknown year] caprice with a 350?
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:26 PM   #19
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Ok so it warmed up into the 20's today so I was able to take a look at my truck. I was able to locate the MAP sensor between the intake manifold and the distributed. It looks like an easy fix. I'm gonna change the o2 sensor and that MAP sensor this week and see what happens. Also I bought those fancy Bosch platinum spark plugs with a lifetime warranty so I'm gonna swap those out cause they are covered with grime. I just changed the thermostat about a month ago but the housing is cracked so I need to get a new one of those... There are 2 vaccume lines coming out of the front of the intake manifold that are plugged with screws, I don't know where they go though... I also need to buy that oval to round rubber thing that goes from the air filter to the left side of the engine compartment but I don't know what its called... I also bought a performance chip on e bay for 10 bucks hopefully that will help my fuel economy... I'm not sure what a cataletic converter even looks like but I know when I got my truck smogged he put n/a next to cataletic converter, but I did pay him to pass it so I don't know if I do have one or not. Are there any other sensors I should change that I don't know about? I changed the temp sensor but that's about it...
Ok when you plan to change the thermosat make sure you get one that rated for 192-195 degress F verison this is the only way you can get it back in line with computer controller.

For the performace chip that is kinda like touch and go item some case it can improve the fuel ecomeny or increase power but few case it will do both at once ( by altering the fuel curve and timming curve )

For the catyatic converter that useally located before the main muffer useally about a meter ( 3 feet ) behind the engine. most 454 useally use large single catyatic converter but there are few case it may have dual CC's most the 5.7's useally have single CC's you can tell where it was by a short peice of pipe which it was filled in by the pipe clamp or welded marks either way and btw the length useally half meter long ( about 18 inches ) for standard size but for 7.4's it will be 3/4 meter long unless it was plummed for dual exhaust.

There should be one vaccum line that go to the fuel canster which it will be located left front area I think below the head light if my memory serve me right ( My diesel verison do not have the fuel canster at all ) the other one I don't really recall without looking up the service manual book otherwise follow the hood sticker it will show the diagram I know the diagram will show for 7.4 L verison but the 5.7 L verison it should be simauair. so hook it up like that.

I am pretty sure the MAP and O2 sensor is out of wack that why you are using more fuel it should be for your engine.

Check your engine oil and smell for gaz if alot of gaz in there change the engine lube oil ( they can ruin the bearings )

What kind of fuel milage you are getting a rough estame ? I know the 7.4L never get over 10 MPG hiway the 5.7 should hit about 12 to 14 MPG range. but if you are useing " winter " gas the milage will drop some.

You may have to buy a OB scanner to read the computer to see what is going on on tempture and O2 reading and MAP reading and cross refered to the service manual for correct setting for each model ( both 5.7 et 7.4's )

Merci,
Marc
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:53 AM   #20
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And when you are buying those replacement sensors, are you telling them it is for a...

1989 Chevy c3500 with a 454?

Or for an [unknown year] caprice with a 350?
I tell them I got an 89 c3500 with a 5.7. I really forget why but I did determine that it is a late 80's model engine. It could be that in 86 or 87 they switched to a serpentine belt instead of using 4 different belts
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:59 AM   #21
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What's winter gas?? I just moved up here from LA and I was getting 15mpg down there but it was running only a little rich. The truck does have dual exhaust but I will look for the cataletic converter today. Just a heads up, this truck was in a major front end collision before I bought it. It's a 89 body with a 91 front clip so my hood is not the origional hood. I'm lucky I got the origional driver door lol. I do need an obd1 reader but the check engine light only comes on if I drive more than 30 min away then shuts off quickly...
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:18 AM   #22
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You need to make sure the engine is at proper temperature and the ECM sees the correct temp. first. You can hang all of the sensors you want, but if the truck doesn't get hot enough or the computer doesn't see it is hot enough, the truck will stay in open loop and ignore the rest of the sensors.

Winter gas has a lower vapor pressure (boil off) than summer. It is has a higher butane content, which does not burn with the same efficiency as octane.
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:19 AM   #23
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I would also look at your prom in the computer and make sure you have a 5.7 prom and not the original 7.4 prom.On your computer is a little door with 2 screws take screws off and there will be a rectangular chip with some numbers on it .Write the numbers down and call the chevy dealer with prom # and make sure it is correct #. I would also check the T-stat for proper temp,those vans should of had a 195 degree stat.
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:32 PM   #24
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If your original engine was the 454, unless the computer was swapped out, that chip you bought is not going to do you any good....you need the computer for that engine.
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:23 PM   #25
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I definitely will check the computer in my truck this weekend now that I know how to access it
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:46 PM   #26
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I would also look at your prom in the computer and make sure you have a 5.7 prom and not the original 7.4 prom.On your computer is a little door with 2 screws take screws off and there will be a rectangular chip with some numbers on it .Write the numbers down and call the chevy dealer with prom # and make sure it is correct #. I would also check the T-stat for proper temp,those vans should of had a 195 degree stat.
Jsmith did hit the nail right there due there is differnt fuel rates and curvies that why you are burning more gaz than it should be for correct engine useage.

If the PROM was not changed from 7.4 format to 5.7 format and left it there that why it ran very rich.

And double check the connections on the harness from firewall to the engine and see if any other items are not connected or missing.

You may need a wiring diagram or harness diagram to verify the numbers of connectors and location to make sure it is in proper place.

Merci,
Marc
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:44 PM   #27
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Ok so I changed the map.sensor and the oxeygen sensor. My exhaust doesn't smell like gas anymore thank god. The old oxygen sensor was completely caked over with soot. Sparkplugs too. The computer was changed when the engine was changed so I'm good there. But there is still something wrong with my truck. If you look at my exhaust there is puffs of smoke instead of a steady stream, and you can feel the truck shake and hear the sound of the chug a lug. It's running like a classic car. The engine itself sounds like its running great. I do still have an exhaust leak between the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe. But there is a little bit of black in my exhaust fumes. Also if I push on the gas real hard and let off, the idle goes way down and almost shuts off the engine. What could be causing this? What causes black smoke? Maybe I need a new head Gasket? My oil is fine and my coolant is pure green, I don't know what do do...
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Old 01-30-2013, 11:55 PM   #28
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Check your EGR ( exhaust gaz recuraltion ) that useally found on top of the intake manfold. It should not be stuck open if stuck open it can stall the engine and sometime you can hear chugging sound so take a peek on that one with the engine off mark the stem and start it up and see if that move if so you should be ok.

The EGR will work fully when the engine is warmed up.

But one waring one part will be very hot so be aware with that.

If you change the EGR make sure you watch the plate diamater to make sure it is matched up to the OE specs or refered to the oringal plate and match it up.

There should be a vaccum line going to the coolant sensor and when the engine warmed up it will open up that port to the EGR.

Merci,
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Old 03-01-2013, 01:30 PM   #29
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Oh well... The engine died I let a guy test drive my truck to see how much I'd get for a trade in and I think he loosened the oil filter so I'd be forced to buy a car from his lot. The next day I'm driving and I smell burnt oil. I poke my head out the window and see smoke coming from under my truck. I go about a half mile and the engine starts revving down instead of up when I step on the gas. Then all of a sudden it stalls. No strange sounds or banging coming from.under the hood. Luckily I was.able.to.coast into a parking spot. I look underneith the truck and there is.oil leaking everywhere on the passenger side. I check and all the pop leaked out. There was metal.shavings on the dip stick. I think the engine seized up. I'm gonna go try to turn the main pulley real.quick.

Would it be better to buy a used engine for $500 or have this one rebuilt? The used engine has no warranty, its in my friends garage he pulled it out of a truck before scrapping it. He said it has over 150 compression on all cylinders.
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Old 03-02-2013, 04:42 PM   #30
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For what you can buy a new one for it's not worth it you can get long blocks for around 1500 if you look at the right places.Too much chance with a used one unless you know the history.

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