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Old 04-09-2014, 09:01 PM   #1
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I am renewing the engine clutch on my 1983 ez-go Marathon golf cart with Robin engine.

Is it possible to get enough clearance to remove clutch by unbolting coil spring and shock absorber ? I don't want to remove engine if possible.

Thank you.

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Old 04-10-2014, 08:47 AM   #2
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Tom,

This is going to be a tough one. This is so random that I doubt anyone knows about this.

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Old 04-10-2014, 10:06 AM   #3
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You can get enough clearance by unhooking the left side suspension and putting a jack under the frame. The clutch bolt is right hand thread. The bolt is about 6" long. After it's out, you need a clutch removal tool, or make your own. Insert a 5/8" rod long enough to touch the end of the crankshaft and reach to where the threads start on the inside of the clutch. Then use a 3/4" fine thread bolt. Thread it into the clutch until it touches the rod. Then use an impact driver and the clutch should pop off. If you don't have an impact driver, you might try a box wrench and a hammer. Smack the wrench good and hard to jar it loose. The cluch is a taper fit on the end of the crank. You need to remove the drive belt and the generator/started belt first, of course. Just replaced the clutch on my own E-Z-Go TXT about 2 weeks ago. Piece of cake.
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Old 04-10-2014, 10:40 AM   #4
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Another thought. If this is a 4 cycle, twin cylinder engine you should consider replacing the timing belt while you have the clutch off. The belt is only $22.00 on Amazon and 4-5 small bolts. Saves pulling the clutch back off if the belt goes and being a 1983, I'd bet no one has ever replaced it. Just be sure you line up the timing marks properly. I posted a link to the manual and the page number.

Page E-11 in the manual listed below

engine shop rebuild & service parts manual 27615-g01 - Jacobsen
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Old 04-10-2014, 11:14 AM   #5
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Thank you maintenance 6

Mine is a 1983 Marathon 2 cycle which is different than the TXT ,however I will use some of your advice.
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Old 04-10-2014, 12:32 PM   #6
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Holy Smokes...that is a random question and I can't believe you knew that.

Props to Maintenance 6
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Old 04-10-2014, 03:19 PM   #7
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As I can not loosen clutch bolt I will have to take engine out.
What torque when replacing engine mounting bolts?
One guy says 25 lbs. Sounds about right.
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Old 04-10-2014, 03:25 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by long tom View Post
As I can not loosen clutch bolt I will have to take engine out.
What torque when replacing engine mounting bolts?
One guy says 25 lbs. Sounds about right.
Ayuh,.... What diameter bolts are they,..??

1/4" goes to 15/ 20ft.lbs.
5/16" to 'bout 20/ 25ft.lbs.
3/8" to 'bout 35ft.lbs.
7/16" to 'bout 40/ 45ft.lbs.
1/2" to 'bout 50ft.lbs.
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Old 04-10-2014, 04:21 PM   #9
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5/16 ,thank you that covers them all !
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Old 04-11-2014, 07:16 AM   #10
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If I'd known you were working on a 2 stroker, I'd have offered different advice. Some 2 stroke clutches aren't threaded for the 3/4 bolt. If there are no threads, you'll need a spacer rod and a gear puller.
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Old 04-11-2014, 08:08 AM   #11
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Yes, I didn't give enough info.
From what info I've gathered the clutch has 9/16 fine thread to fit puller.

What some use is a 1/2 X 3 inch pin and a 9/16 X 2 inch bolt. Saves buying a puller for $ 34 !

I've got clutch ordered and soon as I get it I'll pull engine and put it on a solid work bench so I can stand up and work on it instead of crawling around on the floor like a worm !
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Old 04-12-2014, 02:07 PM   #12
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I took engine out and easily removed clutch bolt as I could get at it easily on work bench.

With a 2 inch x 9/16 fine threaded hard bolt and 3 inch by 1/2 pin, the clutch came off easily also.

Crawling around on the floor like a worm makes it difficult, to say the least !

The crankshaft bearing on the clutch end seems to have a bit of play in it.
After taking seal out , is it possible to remove bearing and put a new bearing in?
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Old 04-14-2014, 01:01 PM   #13
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Glad to hear you got the crank off. Sorry. You've gotten past my knowledge on the bearing. I never got that deep into a 2 stroker. As far as I know the bearings are press fit on the crank and you'd have to split the crankcase to pull the crank. If it has side play, thats not a good thing though. It'll knock out the seal, and 2 stroke crankcases need to be sealed to run. A bad crank seal to a 2 stroke is like a vacuum leak to a 4 stroke. You might be looking at a major overhaul to remove the crank. Pull the flywheel, hone cylinders, new rings etc.
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Old 04-14-2014, 04:18 PM   #14
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Actually the play is side play and I was told it's within acceptable tolerances.
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Old 06-22-2014, 09:48 AM   #15
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I have a 1983 Marathon golf cart with Robin 2 stroke engine. It runs great but falters an odd time.
I took gasoline hose off carb from pump and turned engine over . Gas spurted out but I'm not sure if it is adequate. How much should squirt out?
Is there a simple test for pump?

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