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Old 03-26-2009, 06:38 PM   #16
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2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Brake Job


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Originally Posted by johnnyboy View Post
duralast?

lifetime warranty or not, it still gets old changing them every 1-2 years. I just put on a set of raybestos, but even those are starting to be made in china. ughh you can't get away from it.



That would be the price for turning rotors....... Not brake pads

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Old 04-11-2009, 06:04 PM   #17
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2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Brake Job


i can't get the old pads out of the caliper. any tricks?
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Old 04-11-2009, 06:08 PM   #18
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2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Brake Job


Tap them with a hammer.
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Old 04-14-2009, 05:51 PM   #19
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2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Brake Job


Yep, 2 months later and I still haven't done my brakes yet.
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Old 04-15-2009, 06:35 PM   #20
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2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Brake Job


Whaaat? Is the wife driving the truck? I hope you kids are getting along.
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Old 04-25-2009, 06:48 PM   #21
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2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Brake Job


Ok, it got embarrassing last night (Friday) at the little league game.

I heard the last remnants of my pads grind up earlier in the day. Fortunately I have the parts, and I'm doing them tomorrow morning. But I was mortified about the sound, so I showed up 10 minutes earlier, and I was the last to leave!!! Man. Shameful.

So, yes, tomorrow morning I'm finally doing them. And I'm giving up some prime fishing time to do it. I could have gone fishing first, then come home and do the brakes, but my God, I couldn't stomach pulling up to the boat launch area with the noises my brakes are making. (Not that I have a boat, I just like parking there and hoofing it around the reservoir, which would make my brake noises even more emasculating.)

So tomorrow I do brakes in the morning. And it was 85 today, so time to open the pool up. There's my Sunday.
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Old 04-27-2009, 09:13 AM   #22
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2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Brake Job


Job is complete, but as I was scrubbing my hands, I realized I hadn't taken any pictures.

But here's how it fell out, and a couple tips to folks who haven't done it before:

1. Don't be afraid to attempt this. It's easy. I would rank it as follows: If changing your windshield wiper blades is a 1, and swapping out a transmission is a 5, doing your brakes and rotors is a 2.

2. To do this job, I needed a socket set, the vehicle's jack, a $19 jack stand, a pair of needle nose pliers, two 4" C clamps, a flat blade screw driver, a clean rag, and a small 4 lb sledge hammer. I also have a shop manual with the torque requirements, buy any Chilton's type of manual will have that info.

3. Big lesson: inspect the contents of the parts boxes before you start. The auto parts store gave me the completely wrong set of pads for the front. Turns out somebody in the past had inserted the wrong digit when they were entering parts data, and I ended up with pads for a different vehicle. Took a half hour at the store to track down the correct pads, and I needed the old pad in my hand, standing at the counter, to facilitate that. If I had opened the boxes there at the counter when I bought them, I would have said "hey wait a second..."

4. Stuck rotors. My rotors on 3 of the wheels where stuck. That's where my sledge came in handy, breaking the seal of the rust and road crud. I had some luck finding the sweet spot on the first rotor, and the rest came off pretty easy. The fourth rotor actually fell off as soon as I yanked the retainer clip off the stud.

5. Tool management. Doing 4 rotors and pads requires mobilizing to 4 different positions around your vehicle. But all of the tools are the same. I opened my ratchet set on the bed gate, but moved about the vehicle with the tools I needed in a white bucket. I have employees, and it drives me insane when I see them get a tool from the truck, walk 200 feet to the work area, then realize they forgot something, and walk back, and then repeat it 3 times.

6. Be careful checking the brake fluid level. As you compress the different brake pistons, it will push fluid back into the reservoir. I checked every time I compressed a piston, and I didn't need to suck any out.

7. I picked the hottest day this spring to do mine. I drank a gallon of ice water while I did this. Be ready.

8. Normally replacing pads and rotors shouldn't take more than 2-3 hours going slow. My wife worked yesterday, so with making lunch and activities for 3 kids, plus the pad snafu, this job devolved into a 6 hour marathon. But I enjoyed working with my 4 year old daughter. She passed me the tools and helped me drink the ice water.

9. Gloves are a personal choice. I didn't use mine, even though I have a full box of blue nitrile gloves. I just plain forgot, and by the time I noticed, it was too late. I probably would have saved 8 ounces of Gojo if I had used them (I had to clean up 3 times - lunch for kids, trip to parts store, final cleanup). Next time I will use my gloves.

The actual process of doing the job is easy. I did it one wheel at a time:
1. Loosen lugs while wheel is resting on the pavement, if you don't have an impact wrench. (Left mine at the shop.)
2. Raise the vehicle (I jacked it up, positioned a jack stand, and let the weight come down on the stand), remove wheel.
3. Give everything a once over inspection. Look for leaks, torn rubber boots, etc.
4. Remove caliper bolts (2 on most vehicles), and remove the caliper. The bolts were on there good, but I have a short length of pipe I use to get leverage on my ratchet driver. Might need to work the caliper back and forth and up and down to free it up. I used a screw driver to help me get the pistons back a smidge, and to help clear the caliper adapter. When it comes free, do not let it hang from the hose. My truck is high enough that I could rest the caliper on a flipped over milk crate.
5. Remove the pads. Save the anti-rattle clips. The ones that came with my parts kit didn't fit my caliper.
6. Remove the caliper adapter (2 bolts).
7. Remove the rotor retaining clips, then hammer off the rotor.
8. Install new rotor, reinstall caliper adapter, install anti rattle clips.
9. Slip new pads into position.
10. To get the caliper back on, you'll need the C clamp to compress the piston (two for the front end of my truck). But once compressed, they'll go on.
11. Torque down the bolts to spec.
12. Put wheel back on and move to next wheel.
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Old 04-27-2009, 11:44 AM   #23
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2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Brake Job


You are going to have to do it over; you promised pictures.
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Old 04-27-2009, 06:41 PM   #24
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2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Brake Job


Talk about being brain dead at the counter: I just looked at my receipt today, and they didn't charge me for the rotors.
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Old 04-27-2009, 06:55 PM   #25
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2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Brake Job


You are of course going back to point out their error, right?
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Old 04-27-2009, 08:39 PM   #26
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2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Brake Job


I should, really. I'm the type of person where this kind of thing will eventually eat a hole in my stomach.
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:25 PM   #27
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2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Brake Job


Old thread I realize but can you post the torque spec for the caliper bolts?
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Old 03-19-2012, 01:01 PM   #28
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2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Brake Job


I'll look when I get home. I don't remember.
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Old 03-25-2012, 01:27 PM   #29
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2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Brake Job


Thought I would add some pictures from my 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 brake job to enhance this thread. I just sort of winged it with the torque, hope I'm not sorry.

I used the jack that came with the truck. I must invest in a floor jack one of these days. Then a jack stand for safety.

The caliper bolts require a 13mm socket and as the OP stated, an old pipe works well for leverage. I use this old brass nipple for leverage. The Lead cap and rubber escutcheon are just left over from its previous life, probably in a bath or laundry room.

The milk crate idea for the caliper is a good one. I never would have thought of that on my own. A plus is that you can gather your tools in the crate afterwards to help clean up faster.
Attached Thumbnails
2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Brake Job-p1000387.jpg   2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Brake Job-p1000388.jpg   2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Brake Job-p1000389.jpg   2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Brake Job-p1000390.jpg  

Last edited by Jim F; 03-25-2012 at 01:56 PM.
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Old 03-25-2012, 01:34 PM   #30
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2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Brake Job


Before you start compressing the caliper, you want to take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir and watch the level as you compress. I had my son watch this for me.

The old pad and a C-clamp work well for compressing the calipers.
Attached Thumbnails
2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Brake Job-p1000391.jpg   2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Brake Job-p1000392.jpg   2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Brake Job-p1000393.jpg  

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