2001 7.3 Powerstroke Transmission.
Gone bye bye.
Question is concerning the torque converter. Which is better, single Billet or triple disc? Rather, what might be the advantages of either?
Depends on your definition of "better"
Most uneducated people will just say "oh just get a triple" because it has a bigger number... so it has to be better, right?
The triple disc clutch adds more clutches and gives your more area of contact to transfer the power... which means less of a chance of slippage. And with the 7.3 PSD's, the auto transmissions, particularly the converter, is the weak link (as you have found out).
But the added clutches add more weight to your converter, increasing your parasitic loss through your drivetrain. Which means less power. Also a slower spool up time (assuming the stall is the same) because it takes more effort to get that converter moving.
To say which one would be better for you, it would be beneficial to know what else is done to the truck (programmer, lift, tires, blah blah blah) and what you usually haul with the truck
Gearhead 6 position tuner.
1.) Heavy Tow-Pretty much stock with an increase in fuel economy.
2.) High Idle-warm up, jump starts
3.) Economy- 40hp
5.) Street Fury-smokes the tire, puts you in the seat
6.) All out- 140hp.
5 and 6 are very close to the same. Until I get gauges on the truck I've only continually driven her in #3, economy with an increase of 40hp.
No towing, just a full bed, maybe up to 2000k.
The possibility that I may need to tow a fifth wheel once in a blue moon is there but even the single billet must be much stronger then stock.
My needs are for speed. I most likely will be putting stage one AC injectors and a bigger turbo, stage II intake, 4" turbo back exhaust, all the normal single step up in performance products. I'd still like to be able to tow without an issue just in case as that's what the truck was built for but pretty much I'd like to have the speed and power to the wheels.
I have a heavy foot both from red lights and on the freeway and I don't like being second. :)
The biggest difference I'm concerned with over the two diesel specific performance shops I've spoken and taken her to is the warranty. Either of the two will do the triple but one offers a 12 month warranty and the other, who will only install a triple, offers an 18 month.
That's pretty much the deal maker right there. She is going in this Monday, should have her back by Friday at the latest.
I'm going to have to assume that the triple and this loss of power due to weight is going to by far be overcome by the power the motor can and will produce, once fully modified tri-fold.
Stall is at 1600 rpm, btw. Thanks.
One last thing, I don't believe the torque converter is out, but perhaps you can tell. The truck still gets up and drives. The solenoids are receiving voltage to shift (mechanic and I test drove her together with a scan gauge tool) but she's not shifting into second. From a stop the rpm's go up to 2500-3000 in first and when you let go she completely skips second and shifts into third and then it's all normal from there. Still have reverse as well.
There is some kind of a mechanical diode/sprag in the rear of the tranny on this particular model that fails. Rebuilds remove it completely, replacing it with a different version.
No one knows for certain what exactly is going on nor will they until the tranny is dropped and opened, no codes at all, but they are under the impression it's a mechanical failure versus an electrical such as a solenoid pack.
Thoughts? Sound like a converter to you?
Answer a: If you plan on further modding, get the triple disc. single disc would be fine if you just did small mods (just a programmer)... but if you plan on going big, triple would be your best bet, and I'm a fan of the "do it right the first time, so you don't have to pay for it twice later" philosophy.
answer b: if it's a factory stall, and it goes that high going off the line, it does sound like a converter... but if it doesn't go into 2nd gear at all, it might also be your clutches.
Unfortunately, I'd have to agree with the others. Your next logical step would be to drain the fluid and drop the pan. Look at what the bottom of the inside of your trans pan looks like and what the fluid looks like. If it's sludgy, it's your clutches. If there are metal particles, it's your converter.
If you plan on getting bigger injectors, bigger turbo, etc., I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you want to save as much money as possible, get the trans pulled now, get the new converter and get the trans built by a reputable shop (depending on your location, there is probably a diesel performance shop near you, which will be your best bet), that way you only have to pay for installation once. And you are going to need both for the additional horsepower you plan on adding.
edit: maybe I'm misreading this... but is it going to 3500 rpms and then starting to move, or going to 3500 rpms and then shifting into 3rd.
It was the mechanical diode that broke but yes the truck is in a performance diesel shop around the corner getting a complete rebuild with the billet covered triple disc heavy duty torque converter.
Here's the part that broke.
And the driver, owner and builder of this 7.3 Powerstroke is the owner of the diesel performance shop she's in. :thumbsup:
Got truck back. Awesome! Downshift scratches stock.
4r100 in a box.
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