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-   -   1999 Chrycler LHS 3.5 L - A/C (http://www.diychatroom.com/f46/1999-chrycler-lhs-3-5-l-c-198607/)

WyrTwister 03-30-2014 09:00 AM

1999 Chrycler LHS 3.5 L - A/C
 
Last summer , I helped a cousin replace o-rings on the lines , at the compressor and tried to replace the Schrader Valves at the service ports . The Schrader Valve are medium size , not the small ones , like those in tire / wheel valve stems .

We could not find replacement Schrader Valves . We vacuumed the system down and recharged with R-134a , by weight .

It leaked back down in about 3 days .

Friday , we started working on it again . Removed the compressor an my cousin bought a new one at O'Reilly Auto Parts . Found o-rings and Schrader valves at NAPA . The compressor does not come with the high / low pressure manifold . Replaced the Schrader valves , at the manifold , and the new gasket ( that came with the compressor ) between the compressor and the manifold .

All the while , we were looking for oil leaks , any where on the parts of the A/C system . That we could see & trace down . There was no oil in then old compressor . Added 5 ounces of PAG 46 .

Installed the compressor and 2 new belts . Installed the 2 refrigerant lines with the new o-rings .

Vacuumed the system down for 2 hours , to about 29 mm of mercury . Gassed it back up with R-134a . At about 50 - 60 mph , vent discharge temp was around 45 F . Very pleased with that , but still concerned about leaks . But only time will tell .

God bless
Wyr

noquacks 04-18-2014 07:10 PM

OK, hope it holds, but you didnt say if, after you vacd it, if you watched the needle for movement over say, 15 minutes. Not that that is the only/best way to check for leaks. Pressurizing is the best way.

WyrTwister 04-18-2014 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by noquacks (Post 1338970)
OK, hope it holds, but you didnt say if, after you vacd it, if you watched the needle for movement over say, 15 minutes. Not that that is the only/best way to check for leaks. Pressurizing is the best way.


Yes , it held vacuum . Last time we worked on it , it held vacuum for at least 2 days . ( My cousin was in the hospital , for a procedure , for that period of time . )

Unfortunately , it has now leaked down , to the point of not cooling , both times . In 2 - 3 days .

Could see no evidence of dye leaking , anywhere forward of the fire wall . Our guess is a leak in the evaporator or at the gasket where the evaporator flange bolts to the " back side " of the expansion valve ?

Thanks ,
Wyr
God bless

cjm94 04-19-2014 12:01 AM

Evaporator cores are not uncommon in that car

WyrTwister 04-19-2014 12:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cjm94 (Post 1339039)
Evaporator cores are not uncommon in that car

You mean , leaks in the Evaporator cores ?

Thanks ,
Wyr
God bless

cjm94 04-19-2014 06:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WyrTwister
You mean , leaks in the Evaporator cores ? Thanks , Wyr God bless

. Yes

WyrTwister 04-19-2014 09:37 AM

Thanks , :-)

Any advice on getting to and possiably removing the evaporator ?

God bless
Wyr

cjm94 04-19-2014 11:32 AM

You need to remove the dash to get to it. Get a manual and take your time and they are not to bad a good days project. 2 if your not real familiar with that work. Book time is about 8 hours for someone who does it daily

WyrTwister 04-19-2014 12:10 PM

Thanks , will pass this along to my cousin . He lives one state ( 6 - 8 hours ) away and , unfortunately , can not just drop by to help each other with these projects . :-(

God bless
Wyr

noquacks 04-21-2014 07:22 PM

Wyr, sorry for delay, but dang- I did one of those on my 99 voyager!!! Now, big question- is that the ORIGINAL evap?? If so, good chance it IS the evap. Thos stinkin light weight aluminbum evaps, didnt last for beans. Full of pin holes. I injected dye in mine (with some refrigerant), and opened up the glove box (dont remember exactkly how), and saw the fluorescent dye on the alum fins!!

Yup, its a weekend project, maybe more. One tip- beware of the elusive last hex nut to loosen on the evap black box- its from the engine bay side. I yanked for so lomng on the case, never came out until I stumbled on that last "hidden" nut.
Good luck, man.

noquacks 04-21-2014 07:27 PM

Oh- beware of the air bag system clock spring- very dangerous. Forget just how to temporarily disable it, maybe some one here can help......I just proceeded slowly. Steering wheel has to be loosened. Maybe I pulled the fuse to clockspring(?)

cjm94 04-21-2014 08:01 PM

[QUOTE="noquacks"]Oh- beware of the air bag system clock spring- very dangerous. Forget just how to temporarily disable it, maybe some one here can help......I just proceeded slowly. Steering wheel has to be loosened. Maybe I pulled the fuse to clockspring(?)[/QUOTE No need to pull steering wheel pull the whole column in one piece. Tape wheel so it doesn't spin when you remove the lower shaft. Unhook the battery and wait 5-10 minutes and airbag is disabled.

WyrTwister 04-22-2014 12:23 AM

Thanks , will pass this along to my cousin .

Thanks ,
Wyr
God bless


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