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Earnie 02-24-2012 08:55 PM

Window Trim Color and Protection
1 Attachment(s)
What would be the correct product for protecting wood window trim and providing color?

In the Window and Door section, I have posted some questions on correcting a window installation issue. To correct the problem requires removing the 1x4 stained window trim. I would like to add color to the new wood trim boards but need some suggestions on what to use.

Solid Stain?
Semi-Solid Stain?
Acrylic based?
Oil basesd

I have enough wood maintenance to deal with so I'm looking for a product that will require minimum maintenance.


Here is a picture:

Attachment 46453

BraniksPainting 02-24-2012 10:58 PM


Originally Posted by Earnie (Post 862455)
What would be the correct product for protecting wood window trim and providing color?

I have enough wood maintenance to deal with so I'm looking for a product that will require minimum maintenance.

All paint or stain needs maintained at some point no matter what. If done properly and under perfect conditions, you can get the life of the product. I personally would stay away from oil. For one, most states have or are doing away with them due to the VOC (Volatile Organic Compound) compliancy laws. Some people may totally disagree with me saying to stay away from oils though.
If you plan on painting them and depending on if you want the wood grain to show or not show. Use solid color stain if you don't want to see the wood grain. Use transparent stain if you want to see the wood grain.
If you want no maintenance trim, wrap them in aluminum or vinyl.

joecaption 02-25-2012 12:09 AM

You still not have a PVC sill that extends out behold the window trim so your still going to be dealiing with wood rot behind the 1 X 4 trim.
One of the many draw backs to real wood.

chrisn 02-25-2012 04:14 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Slow drying oil based primer, 2 coats 100% acrylic exterior finish paint
You must caulk any gaps, do NOT use 100% silicon

Any real paint store will be able to provide both.
I tend to use Ben Moore or Duron

forget the Fresh Start, it is quick dry and NOT what you want

Earnie 02-25-2012 06:18 AM

Thanks for the replies.

The picture is of a window that has not been fixed. The new sill will be 2x yellow pine and will extend at least one inch beyond the bottom trim board.

I will probably use an exterior acrylic semi-transparent stain.

Are there any special preps or staining tips when applying over yellow pine?

When using a semi-tranparent stain, do you first stain then caulk, or caulk then stain?

jsheridan 02-25-2012 06:57 AM

Hey Earnie, firstly, if you use wood that differs in type from what you're not replacing, it's going to show differently if you're using any type of trans stain. If you're removing pine, replace with pine. If you're removing cedar, which I think that is, replace with cedar. You could have two very different looking sections of window trim, even colorwise. If you use trans then use a clear siliconized caulk. On a two coat system, you would caulk between coats so the wood is sealed and won't draw the vehicle out of the caulk causing premature failure, and the second coat will protect the caulk further and prevent dirt build up on exposed caulk. Caulk should always be painted over. If you're using a one coat system you have a choice to make. You can caulk first and take a chance or caulk last and take a chance. There may be caulk that fits that bill to go over bare wood, I'm not sure. Whatever you do, be sure to get a coat on the back of the new trim and what's under it prior to install.

Earnie 02-25-2012 01:34 PM

All the wood is yellow pine so I'll be using yellow pine for the new work.

I want to use a semi-transparent stain not a paint. I will be staining the wood's back (and front) prior to installation.

Still unsure of the caulk/stain sequence. Can you clarify when using stain?

jsheridan 02-25-2012 08:05 PM

Earnie, I was addressing stain, not paint. I said caulked needs to be painted, OR stained, it just needs to be coated. Exposed caulk weathers, dries out, and deteriorates faster when it's not coated.

Earnie 02-27-2012 09:08 AM

Thanks for the clarification.

Sherman-Williams is the only paint store in my area. From other posts I have read here, SW is the better choice over Cabot or Olympic?

Earnie 02-27-2012 11:10 AM

Correction. That should be "Sherwin" - Williams. Wasn't paying attention while typing.

jsheridan 02-27-2012 03:24 PM

Earnie, some might prefer one over the other, but between SW and Cabots, the difference imo is insignificant, though I like the way SW Woodscapes works. I don't have any opinion on Olympic, never used it. I've been looking at the pic again and I'm thinking, for my taste, I'd do the window trim in a solid stain. It looks like you have enough wood siding and a solid stain might do more to contrast and set the window off against the siding. Are you planning to wash that wood prior to staining? That might be dicey over that siding. If you do, give the siding below the windows a good soaking just prior and be careful with the cleaner. At the very least, regardless of what stain you use, all the exposed, existing wood should get a good sanding with 80 or 100 grit paper to remove any degraded surface wood cells, which get destroyed by UV and can impair adhesion. I can see by the enhanced lines on the frame face that that is already an issue for you. A solid stain will do more to block UV and protect the wood longer, and reduce the recoat frequency Kenneth. (A little REM bit)

Earnie 02-27-2012 03:51 PM

Thanks for the help. I do appreciate it.

I'll post an updated picture in a few days. The window frame is being re-worked so the 1x4 trim will be new un-stained yellow pine. I'm also adding a new yellow pine sill that will extend beyond the 1x4 trim.

Here is our color idea.

Sill and casing will be a dark solid stain to match the window color.

1x4 trim around the window will be a red toned solid stain.

Click on the link below and then the Front Porch/Deck picture for an idea of the look we want.

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