What type of FINISH for a SMOOTH Finish?

jennyusmc

Quick question. I repainted my dresser recently with Rust-Oleum's Heirloom White spray paint after I stripped, sanded, primed x2 and sanded. Now that I am all done, after two layers of Heirloom White, the surface feels a little rough. I did spray Varathane's Polyurethane for interior's as I was told it would protect my hard work, but it's still pretty rough. I'm looking for a somewhat smooth finish. Should I try Miniwax Satin Finish, Gloss Finish, or what?

Jackofall1

Welcome Jenny, to the best DIY'r site on the web.

To obtain a smooth finish, are you talking about dirt and dust encapsulated in the finish or are you talking about the overall roughness as a result of sanding?

If its dirt and dust, use fine steel wool to etch the surface, wipe with tack cloth and reapply, thin layer polyeurothane, repeat until desired results are obtained.

As far as gloss or satin, these are grades of reflectiveness, and not reference to smoothness, either will be smooth if surface preparation has been done correctly. Gloss is very reflective and shows every bit of flaw, furnishings are typically done with a satin finish.

Mark

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jennyusmc

Hi Mark! Thanks so much! If I use steel wool, will it scratch the surface? And when applying the poly, it's apparent the spray poly didn't work so should I try Miniwax's wipe-on poly?

Thanks again!

Jackofall1

The steel wool is 0 or 00 fine real fine, it won't scratch it will remove the shine left by the last coat, Minwax poly applied with lambs wool applicator or a foam applicator is what I always use.

Let it dry and reapply, takes about 3 coats to get a nice finish, and use satin as high gloss finishes are nice but are better left for those proffessionals that have all the equipment to apply that kind of finish.

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boman47k

When I did some woodwork, I used sanding sealer and sometimes laquer, sometime poly sanding with fine sandpaper between coats.

I have never used steel wool pads, but I thought the number was ooo for a really fine finish. I also worry about leaving particles of the steel wool in the finish.

That being said, my woodwork was like bunk beds, churns, rocking horses, coffeee and end tables, etc, not really what you would call fine furniture, but with very slick finishes.

I knew a guy that would use steel wool and did some very good looking finishes.

Jackofall1

Bowman next time you have the opportunity to do a finish you should try some 0, 00 steel wool, I think you will be impressed by the end result.

This was shown to me by a master woodworker, he believed that while sandpaper plugged the pores of wood, steelwool would carry the sanding particles into the weave of the pad, reducing the plugging effect and enhancing the effect of fine wood grains.

Mark

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boman47k

May have to experiment with it sometime.

PaintItLikeAPro

That roughness you are feeling is a product of the spray can. An aerosol spray can will not give you a fine finish like a professional sprayer will.

However, I have finished many pieces of furniture using aerosol spray cans. You just have to sand the paint with 150 grit between coats. Then finish it off with a couple of coats of clear and sand with 220 grit between coats. After the final coat, use steel wool with a lubricant to buff the finish to its final luster. I would recommend using a satin sheen.

~ Michael Dale

JoeLena

Just a small point, and I could be wrong, but if the poly is water based you may not want to use steel wool, but an appropriate scotch brite pad. Water based finishes and steel wool won't do well together.

boman47k

That is my concern too.

PaintItLikeAPro

You are right about water and steel wool not mixing. However, there shouldn't be any water present after the finish has dried. A scotch-brite pad would probably be a better option, but I don't have enough experience to determine which is the correct grade to use for the finish I want to acheive. I need to get with the times and figure that out.

~ Michael Dale