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View Poll Results: What is the best solid deck stain to use?
Flood 2 18.18%
Cabots 1 9.09%
SW Deckscapes 0 0%
Benjimin Moore 3 27.27%
other 5 45.45%
Voters: 11. This poll is closed

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Old 04-12-2009, 10:41 AM   #16
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what solid stain is best?


Rubbol DEK is their classic oil based product. It's been the go to product for a long time. Rubbol Solid DEK is their new acrylic version. It's only been out since this February. I haven't sold any yet and I can't comment on it's performance at this point. I'd say go with the tried and true oil product until there is a some feedback on the new product.

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Old 04-12-2009, 11:03 AM   #17
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Thanks I agree to go with what has worked. What is the difference of the two and what are they saying is the advantage of the new one? Is the old one the same formula as it was? Because sometimes they can change the formula and keep the same name. Also was wondering why consumer report ranks sikkens pretty low. They recommend Olympic stain. It gets confusing of what to believe and who to believe.
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Old 04-12-2009, 07:49 PM   #18
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I too am considering a solid stain for my deck (including the highly tauted 'Sikkens Rubbol DEK' / oil-based stain), though a part of me wants to maintain the 'wood grain' appearance that we currently have, though currently weathered. Priorities to me are low maintenance and longevity... which points me toward the 'solid stain', though the prospect of eventual peeling or flaking is a turn-off.

My specific questions... assuming appropriate 'preparation' is done:

1) Does a good solid stain typically 'outlast' an equally good semi-transparent stain'?

2) Is it so that oil-based stains (specifically solid stains) 'last longer' than water based stains?

3) Even if 'maintained' decently, is it inevitable that a solid stain will eventually peel or flake?

4) What are the main disadvantages of a solid (oil-based) stain?

I'm hoping there's a forum member who has broad enough experience on the subject (far more than I do) to help me out. Thanks!
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:37 PM   #19
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Sikkens makes high quality automotive paint. Good reputation in that field.
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Old 04-13-2009, 02:36 AM   #20
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This looks so bad. You must have felt like doing something to them
Try lowe's solid stains for deck.


Dana
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Old 04-13-2009, 05:54 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by mpgumm View Post
Thanks I agree to go with what has worked. What is the difference of the two and what are they saying is the advantage of the new one? Is the old one the same formula as it was? Because sometimes they can change the formula and keep the same name. Also was wondering why consumer report ranks sikkens pretty low. They recommend Olympic stain. It gets confusing of what to believe and who to believe.
The advantages are water cleanup, more environmentally friendly, better color retention and flexibility. The normal stuff when dealing with water vs oil. Waterborne floor coatings have always been sub-par in the past compared to oil. However, with the move away from VOC, the good parts of the oil have disappeared to the point where there isn't much to recommend it anymore. The on thing oil still has going for it is penetration into the wood, but even that isn't the greatest anymore since it's all gove high solids with little solvent left to actually penetrate.

As for Consumer Reports, throw it away and cancel your subscription. At least on the paint end of things, it's always been a joke. They don't test all the aspects that really matter. And they aren't comparing just quality of the products. They are factoring cost in as well. Sikkens costs more than many other products so it gets a lower rating for not being as good of a value.
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Old 04-13-2009, 05:58 AM   #22
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My specific questions... assuming appropriate 'preparation' is done:

1) Does a good solid stain typically 'outlast' an equally good semi-transparent stain'?
Yes generally. The opaque pigments provide more protection from the sun and take longer to break down.

2) Is it so that oil-based stains (specifically solid stains) 'last longer' than water based stains?
That's debatable. Acrylics usually last longer as far as color and retain their flexibility better, but since they get less penetration they tend to peel more readily in certain situations.

3) Even if 'maintained' decently, is it inevitable that a solid stain will eventually peel or flake?
Yes, any film forming product will do this. You can only build up so many coats before it will start to peel.

4) What are the main disadvantages of a solid (oil-based) stain?
You don't get the rich wood appearance anymore. It looks more like paint.
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Old 04-13-2009, 07:41 AM   #23
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Sorry everyone, I am reading so much I am getting confused!!! Please set me straight!!!!!!

Sikkens Rubbol DEK or Rubbol Solid DEK?

Is Sikkens the stain to get, if not what?

Should I go with solid stain, if not what?

Should I get oil based stain?

What prep. solution should I get?
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Old 04-13-2009, 10:58 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adman View Post
I too am considering a solid stain for my deck (including the highly tauted 'Sikkens Rubbol DEK' / oil-based stain), though a part of me wants to maintain the 'wood grain' appearance that we currently have, though currently weathered. Priorities to me are low maintenance and longevity... which points me toward the 'solid stain', though the prospect of eventual peeling or flaking is a turn-off.

My specific questions... assuming appropriate 'preparation' is done:

1) Does a good solid stain typically 'outlast' an equally good semi-transparent stain'?

2) Is it so that oil-based stains (specifically solid stains) 'last longer' than water based stains?

3) Even if 'maintained' decently, is it inevitable that a solid stain will eventually peel or flake?

4) What are the main disadvantages of a solid (oil-based) stain?

I'm hoping there's a forum member who has broad enough experience on the subject (far more than I do) to help me out. Thanks!
Solid stains will typicly hold the color longer, but you can always put a solid stain over a semi-transparent stain if the semi doesn't look right. Putting a semi over a solid stain doesn't do much. Semi-transparent stains are better for decks anyways as they don't show the traffic/walking areas as much as solid stains tend to wear away looking more like a semi-transparent in high traffic areas. Solid stains are better for the side of a house. Both are very maintinance friendly as they won't peel and when they fade, just slap on another coat. All bets are off if you use latex. The color may last longer in a latex stain, but it will be in nice little chips that have come up and fallen through the gaps in your boards. You can pop you head under the deck and say "wow, that Latex Stain really held the color"
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Old 04-14-2009, 03:07 PM   #25
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Sikkens is the best!! A new neighbor recommended it to us after we asked him what he used. It is the only stuff he will use. And he only
owns wood-sided houses.
We had the same problem you had- but we built a new deck when we
put an addition on. After using the Sikkens, we have every confidence
in it. Get the Sikkens!!!
~Oil-based.

Last edited by bdionne; 04-14-2009 at 03:12 PM. Reason: Additional advise
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Old 04-14-2009, 06:00 PM   #26
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What stores sell the Sikkens? I couldn't find their website on-line.
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Old 04-14-2009, 06:16 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by mpgumm View Post
The sad thing is that I did prep the deck to the tee that behr recommends on the label. I used all Behr prep products. I sanded the deck, cleaned all dust with their prep cleaner, waited four days to dry completly, and did two coats with Behr Deck plus solid latex stain. I used a **** load of stain. It says one gallon will coat 200-400 sq. ft. but it didn't cover that great. I used a lot more than two gallons. So in a way you buy a cheep can of stain, but end up spending more because it doesn't go on great, so you are buying more cans of stain.

Good news though, I called Behr and complained. They were fighting the claim saying I used too much stain. Just for you to know, if you call to complain, tell them you did everything it told you on the label and that you used the exact amount it told you- because if you don't, they will fight it saying you did it wrong-there for it is your fault. I asked for $300.00 for all the cans of paint, time, supplies, sander, and prep solutions. I have to send in pictures of the can on the deck, pics of the damage, pics of the whole deck, and the upc off of a can. It takes three weeks to process. After complaining how bad of a product it is, they wanted to send a pro out to do my deck with the same stuff I was complaining about. Anyone going through this good luck. My advise, get the money and not another application of a ****ty product!!!! save your upc and or receipt!!!
There is a thread on here about Behr by a Behr rep
You should post there

BEHR would like to hear about your experiences with our paint
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Old 04-14-2009, 08:42 PM   #28
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He's in there. He has the longest post in that thread.
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:51 PM   #29
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I have used Bear plus solid deck stain- two words- stay away! It peeled in places so bad I have to re-do the whole thing. I am looking for the best product so I can get a few years in without having to redo it. I am going with solid because that is what is already there. I need something that will last. I have looked on consumer report.org and they rated Flood Swf solid latex the best- but on all the forums I don't see mention of Flood products- I see a lot of Cabots, SW Deckscapes. Also what is down now is oil-based. Is latex the way to go or do I still use oil-based solid stain. Let me know thank you. (This is for a 20x20 deck)
You NEVER put solid stain on walking surfaces. It is soft skinned and will show wear, peeling and/or cracking within weeks or months.
I have Behr solid stain on the vertical walls of my house (cedar and T1-11 siding) and it has never flaked or cracked in over 10 years!! Yes, it has faded somewhat where hit by the sun for long periods, but otherwise no problem.
I will paint again soon not to cure problems, but to renew the depth of the color.

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