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-   -   What paint should I use (http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/what-paint-should-i-use-39845/)

agrajag 03-07-2009 04:08 PM

What paint should I use
 
hey folks, I will be getting a new house soon, and it needs paint!! (interior) I know someone who can get me a discount on Dunn and Edwards paints. My main concern however is not price but quality. I want a good paint that will hold its color and last a long time.

I know basically nothing about paints. Is Dunn and Edwards a good paint? Will it look good and last a long time? how does it compare to other paints such as Behr available at home depot? What makes a good paint good? Is there really any difference between teh paints, or are they like computer parts: the same two manufacturers products repackaged in creative ways.

Anything you folks can tell me about paint would be great.

slickshift 03-07-2009 05:51 PM

With paints you pretty much get what you pay for
Different people with different techniques and expectations might have preferences as to brand, but usually that's a Ford/Chevy/Coke/Pepsi thing, as long as you are comparing apples to apples (not a cheap builder's paint vs. a high end premium)

As they are commonly available, you'll hear lots of recommendations for Benjamin Moore and Sherwin Williams, and sometimes Pittsburgh
As they all make multiple lines (think Chevy Cavalier, Trailblazer, Corvette, etc.), including cheap commercial paints, figure those recommendations mean the Premium Lines (Regal, Aura, Duration Home, Cashmere, Manor Hall, etc...), rather than the mid/low end lines

Then there are a few lesser known, maybe harder to find, national brands
(California, Pratt & Lambert, Muralo, Dunn & Edwards)
Oftentimes, as is the case with those I just listed, their premium lines are just fine, and perhaps lend themselves to a particular painter's style better than some of the more well known brands

And sometimes the best choice is a strictly regional brand
This would be a premium product not available nationally, but still is a great product ...especially (if not only) for a particular area (ie: a south Florida exterior coatings manufacturer for a south Florida stucco exterior)

Then there are some brands that are targeted specifically to DIYers
In general, these are not so good
Maybe not terrible, but still...they are marketed specifically to DIYers
These products can or might work OK - depending on your expectations, and if there are no...other issues (deep colors, insufficient prep, high humidity, lack of primer originally...lack of prep on previous re-paints...the list goes on and on...)

These are marketed strictly to DIYers as they would never, ever, pass muster by Pros who do this day in day out, and would find the shortcomings rather quickly...and they would lose money by fixing and re-painting...or worse
These types often won't even offer a "commercial/contractor/builder" line-up (often the first warning sign btw) and will tout any/all lines as "premium"
These would include brands like Glidden* and Dutch Boy*, American Traditions, Behr, Ralph Lauren (the money goes into the name, not the product), and the like

So, basically, when you hear "Buy your paint from a real paint store", it's pretty much true
As the DIY painter's, and the pro painter's, goals are the same (a great looking project with the least amount of time and worry of failure), you should avoid anyplace the contractors avoid, and shop where they shop

Trust me, if quality paint contractors could save a few bucks and either pocket them, or pass the savings on to the customer lowering their overall price and getting more jobs, by shopping at Sears or Home Depot...they would

They don't

Having used every paint mentioned here, and having my Coke/Pepsi preference, I can honestly say that if I had a project where I got a deal on some DE, I'd do it no prob

Only if there were some issues with the previous coatings or adhesion or something, would I want to use my fave/stand-by/go-to products



*which if Grandpa Retired Painter says he used for 25 years back in the day, it's probably true...those two used to be decent...
But Glidden and Dutch Boy have gone for the cheap easy buck since then, and the quality has suffered over the years

agrajag 03-07-2009 10:18 PM

Wow thank you so much!!!! This is exactly the kind of information I was looking for!! I will go with a DE premium brand then. I will be doing prep work, and I plan to use a roller and brush application style, since I have never used a paint sprayer before. I am not opposed to getting a paint sprayer, but I have heard that that they waste paint, give uneven coating, and do not work as good as rollers and brushes. The advantage as I understand it is that the sprayers take less time to use. However, since most of the time is in preping the walls and taping the edges, I dont mind spending a little extra time to get the job done right. Thanks again for your help!!! Oh and I forgot to mention, I am in California, so there are DE stores all over the place.

Determined 03-07-2009 11:24 PM

Don't know what area you are in but if there is a MAB paint store I would use it because I find it a most durably paint for the inside or outside. I painted a houes in Phila. Pa. in 1982 with MAB trim paint and it only started to peel in 2000. I think that is very good for a paint to last that long. The house was a corner house which has the front, back, and side exposed to all weather.

agrajag 03-31-2009 07:04 PM

I am in California, and I could not find a MAB store around here. However, there are BM and SW stores in the area, as well as DE as I mentioned earlier. That brings up another question, is there anyone who can reccomend one of those three? From what I gather from reading these forums, BM is the way to go. However, I also gather that all three are quality paints. Each company has different lines of paint, is there really a big difference between them? For example, BM has Natura and Aura. Will they look any different after they are on? is one better for certain applications? It is hard to tell what is what from the websites of the companies.

Oh and fyi the frist room will be indoors, in a dark red of some sort, and painting over builders paint. I plan to primer first (after washing of course). Dont know if that makes a difference or not.

Anyway thanks so far for all the great info, you guys are awesome!

SeaBee 08-19-2009 02:52 PM

My wife and I will be painting a 3400sqft home. My first choice of paint was P&L's Accolade line, however, I can only seem to get accolade in 1gal cans around here. Now I am looking at P&L's Redseal or Dunn Edwards, I am just not sure where Dunn Edwards falls. Is it more comparible to P&L's Redseal line or Accolade line.

Any help is appreciated, thanks.

housepaintingny 08-20-2009 12:17 AM

Hi,
I am a NY painting contractor. There are many good paints on the market, but over the years of trying a variety of brands we now usually always use and recommend Sherwin Williams and we will only warranty our house painting projects if we use Sherwin Williams. Whatever brand you choose I would recommend using a 100% acrylic. Acrylic is a waterbourne paint and not all latex are 100% acrylic. Its also better than most oils now days. Make sure its a *top quality latex paint that contains top quality acrylic binders, they provide maximum adhesion, are very flexible, so they continue to adhere even when temperature changes cause the surface to expand and contract. This elasticity helps forestall chipping, peeling, flaking and other common paint failures, more durable, excellent color retention, they contain mildewcides to discourage mildew, and other great properties too. If your going over bare, un primed surfaces such as wood or drywall I do not recommend paints that claim to be self priming. Primer is primer and paint is paint, any bare surfaces need to be primed first using a premium acrylic primer for proper adhesion, levelling, color. Premium paints will leave a smoother finish. Spraying is great if you can, it can be applied even, and its faster, but if you already have floors, trim, cabinets, and doors installed I would not recommend it. It will take way to much time to mask everything off. With a good quality brush and roller you'll be fine.
www.Kelloggspainting.com

SeaBee 08-20-2009 11:21 AM

housepaintngny,

Thanks for the information and tips. We should be painting in about 3 weeks, I'll be sure to post our experience and results.

Vikki Foley 08-20-2009 05:54 PM

Paint Quality
 
Sherwin Williams and Benjamin Moore is the only paint I specify. Behr is lower end.

Vikki Foley
Interior Designer & Color Consultant

www.bestpaintcolors.com

"When the color is right, you will feel it"

sirwired 08-21-2009 01:55 PM

Really, any actual paint store (as opposed to store that sells paint) will do the trick. DE, P&L, BM, SW, Duron, ICI, California, etc. ... they all sell good paint, and they also sell really cheap paint. Buy at or near the top of the line at a paint store that treats you right, and your job should do just fine.

SirWired

sgo70 08-22-2009 09:33 AM

What about the low VOC paints, seems like a good investment for longterm health?

Sean

sirwired 08-22-2009 06:32 PM

By remarkable coincidence, some of the "flagship" paints are also low-VOC. Ben Moore Aura and Sherwin Duration are both low-VOC products. There are probably others.

SirWired

mrsjande 09-02-2009 12:35 PM

MOVING THIS PARAGRAPH TO NEW TOPIC SESSION IN THE FORUM!!!! You can reply there or here :P

Agrajag and I used SW for the bathroom. Great color, but the ceiling paint was THIN and it sagged down onto the walls so we don't have clean lines (I am guessing this is why you do the ceiling first. We cut in with Purdy 2" angled brush and still couldn't get good lines with the $%*# orange peel). But overall the ceiling looks good. Two coats good! :thumbsup:

The SW guys said we did not need to prime because I used TSP to wash then rinsed twice after. PROBLEM: turns out (!) there's silicon caulk on the walls near the tub, so you can all guess what happened when we tried to cut in :furious: QUESTION: Will priming allow us to just paint over this caulk? If we sand the textured wall won't it look uneven? Any suggestions for locating the caulk on the walls and removing it?

ALSO: getting even lines is a PAIN. There seem to be varying opinions from tape and caulk, to using a brush with good lighting and a steady hand, which is what Agrajag plans to do. We tried using an edger, but because of the orange peel... yada yada.

Walls are blue, ceiling is yellow, first attempt to paint the wall not so good! What is the best way to remove the (small area) botched job? Can I prime over, should I sand? Any suggestions for making this project and our lives easier?

SeaBee 10-06-2009 06:17 PM

I have 3 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms and the kitchen island now complete.

Dunn Edwards - Flat: +/- 29.00 per Gal.
2 bedrooms done in a beige over a 1/4 tinted bullseye 123. Very nice paint that was easy for a novice like me to spray on. Covered in a single coat, didn't sag and only a few runs in each bedroom (my fault)...looks great.

Dunn Edwards - Semi Gloss: +/- 37.00 per Gal.
2 bathrooms done a light beige over a 1/2 tinted bullseye 123. Another very nice paint from Dunn. Covered in a single coat, didn't sag and only a couple of runs (my fault)...looks great.

Pratt & Lambert Accolade - Flat: +/- 34.00 per Gal.
1 bedroom done in a coco over very lightly tinted (same tint as above) bullseye 123. This is my favorite paint so far. With only a single run (my fault) this paint went on very smooth, didn't sag, and only needed a single coat. I really thought I would have to go over this with a second since my primer was only ver lightly tinted, but that was not the case.

Pratt & Lambert Accolade - Semi Gloss: +/- 35.00 per Gal.
1 bathroom done in a what I would call a woody beige color (a little darker than most) over the same lightly tinted primer. I had very high hopes after the coco bedroom I had just finished, but ran into some problems, and maybe someone with more experience can give some advice. the bathroom wall areas are very tight and a lot of semi hidden edges, so I figured there would be some runs, but I had a total of about a dozen large runs and on the edge outlining all of the runs was a dark amber colored liquid. Was this the acrylic and the result of poor mixing, or some other oversight on my part? If so I feel much better that it was lack of chekcing and prep on my part, but as of now I can't recommend this paint and will hold off on the other room (as long as I can) until further feed back.

Valspar Signature - High Gloss: +/- 32.00 per Gal.
1 Kitchen Island done in a bright white on a non-tinted bullseye 123. The end result was clean looking, but it took two coats and was "thinner" feeling than either the Dunn or P&L. I did have a few runs, though I didn't think it was all my fault (a contractor I'm sure would have been fine though) and the paint didn't sag. This was a last minute call on a Sunday, if anyone was wondering why the Valspar.

skylake 10-06-2009 08:54 PM

paint fumes
 
If you have children, you might also consider low or no VOC paints.
Paints off-gas for a long time and children are very suspectible to the fumes, causing long-term asthma. Even adults are suspectible to getting asthma from paint fumes.


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