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Old 06-22-2008, 05:36 PM   #1
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waterproofing basement


had to rip down all the sheetrock and paneling..some cracks in mortar between cinder blocks..so some patching and i was gonna use drylock's etch for the efflorescence ..the drylock sealer paint says that its only for sealing bare concrete. so i need to find another sealer.

what can i use for a basement thats already painted..the paint is probably at least 30 years old. But there is no way im stripping all that paint off. There has to be another sealant that can go on over paint.

help me!!!

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Old 06-24-2008, 06:38 AM   #2
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I don't know what product you can use, but I do know that Sherwin Williams makes a very large line of industrial and masonry coatings in addition to the paints and primers you are familiar with. I would stop by your local store and ask if they carry (or can order) a product that might help.

Whatever you do, try to avoid stripping or scraping that paint. Paint that old is just begging for lead content... might be a good idea to test it.

Are you going to re-rock? I ask, because the best solution to water infiltration is to remove the source, as opposed to trying to seal on top of it. If you aren't concerned with how the cinderblock looks, then I would recommend the usual measures to reduce the seepage. (re-grading, gutter maintenance, improved drainage to take water from gutters and runoff away from the house, etc.)

SirWired

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Old 06-24-2008, 12:10 PM   #3
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i plan on re-rocking and putting the paneling back up. The water runoff from the down spouts are going to be re-routed as the old pipes have rotted and roots have grown into them. I plan on regrading the dirt up against the foundation. I want my parents to regrade the backyard as well, because its eroding and not draining water properly. There is also a hill in the backyard that is not helping with the water issues. There used to be grass and now its moss. The whole backyard could use some work.


How do i test for lead paint?
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Old 06-24-2008, 12:33 PM   #4
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Did you pull down the drywall because of water staining due to the seepage? If so, no coating is going to hold that back long-term. Dry-Lock itself doesn't last more than a scant few years with frequent seepage, even over an ideal surface. Having to do all this over again would not be fun.

You should be able to find lead test kits via Google, and they might also be carried by your local hardware store. However, if you are going to re-rock, you might as well just leave that old stuff alone. The problem you have is that if you have lead paint, the first step in putting any eventual coating on top of it is you have to remove any failing paint first, such as chips. Doing this with lead paint is a real hassle.

Get the drainage issues fixed, wait for a good wet storm or two, and if everything is ok, then fix up the block mortar, re-rock, and re-panel.

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Old 06-24-2008, 01:31 PM   #5
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http://www.deltamembranes.com/waterp...-membranes.htm



Lead paint test kit.

http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/6051403?ref=gbase

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Old 06-24-2008, 02:11 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sirwired View Post
Did you pull down the drywall because of water staining due to the seepage? If so, no coating is going to hold that back long-term. Dry-Lock itself doesn't last more than a scant few years with frequent seepage, even over an ideal surface. Having to do all this over again would not be fun.

You should be able to find lead test kits via Google, and they might also be carried by your local hardware store. However, if you are going to re-rock, you might as well just leave that old stuff alone. The problem you have is that if you have lead paint, the first step in putting any eventual coating on top of it is you have to remove any failing paint first, such as chips. Doing this with lead paint is a real hassle.

Get the drainage issues fixed, wait for a good wet storm or two, and if everything is ok, then fix up the block mortar, re-rock, and re-panel.

SirWired

The rock was only slightly damaged near the bottom inch, which was covered by paneling and then baseboard. The original indicator of a problem was some discoloration, possibly mold on the baseboard. I ripped everything out to see how far the problem went. There are cracks and definitely seepage issues. But the rock was not in bad shape. We have had some killer storms here lately and no water has gotten thru the walls. Just a tiny tiny bit of seepage.

The biggest issue is the water drainage. I think once that is resolved the inside will no longer be an issue. I just hope that it can be solved with regrading, digging and laying new pipe for downspout runoff and not having to excavate down to the footing.
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Old 06-24-2008, 03:11 PM   #7
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Good Luck!

I am in the same boat with seapage. Everyone is trying to sell me the expensive interior french drain system. I am optimistic that I can take care of it with regrading and water-proofing... fingers crossed. At least that is a cheap attempt.
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Old 06-24-2008, 05:25 PM   #8
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javan..the waterproofing company tried to sell us a "no gap drain", no sump pump. basically whole new system for about 15,000..nothing would be resolved on the outside with that. they had a lifetime guarantee which was rock solid..basically if any damage happens they will fix it for free..the salesman did a great job explaining everything to us and i learned where to focus my efforts. Efflorescense is a ***** though..There is a ton of that crap and im scared to use the acids to etch the concrete and remove the effloorescense..they are dangerous to use..and i have a carpeted basement and cant hose down the walls after because u must wash acid off walls.

my parents were ready to sign on the dotted line during the quote and i had to talk them out of it.. i sad lets try it my way first and for under $2000. Worst case scenario we excavate and reseal from outside...its still cheaper than $15,000.


If i only knew someone who owned a back hoe and could dig out the dirt for cheap!
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Old 06-24-2008, 09:40 PM   #9
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Ours was a 6" perforated pvc drain pipe, layed in at the footer, buried in stone, then sent to a new sump. His quote was $12600. Another company gave us a quote for the same system a year ago for $7000. My plan is to plug the known leaks from the inside, then regrade outside.

I have 2 oil tanks that are in the way of the leaks, so Friday I have a helper coming to assist me in the movement of the tanks.

Fingers crossed!
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Old 06-24-2008, 10:16 PM   #10
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if you dont have anything covering the walls its not that big of a problem..my basement is finished. and i live in it..so right now i have no bedroom and sleep on the family room couch! so the longer this drags on the longer i live like a nomad
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Old 06-25-2008, 07:09 AM   #11
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I had a house a few years back that had a finished basement. One room was the office, then became storage. The PO's had installed shelving along the ext wall that was made up of vertical 2x4's and covered with plywood. When I bought the house, the room was packed full of boxes, and the light did not work well, so I stayed out. THen one day (when I was about to put the house on the market), I was looking closer and saw that the bottom 12" of the vertical 2x4's was saturated. All the boxes were soaked. The red shag rug carpet was sopping wet. I pulled it all out. Tore down the furred out wall panels in two rooms, and found that there were 2 leaks in the wall (the wall had been previously drylocked). I had to use some water plug after chiseling out the holes, but that stopped it. Then I regraded the outside (hurt like hell to have to cut out some mature landscaping, but that was part of the problem.

You will get through this, it just takes time. Think it all through and take it one step at a time (that is what I am doing!)

Last edited by javan; 06-25-2008 at 07:13 AM.
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Old 06-25-2008, 10:29 AM   #12
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sorry to hear about that with your former house..thats the last thing you want to see when you are trying to put a home for sale. Thank god you are handy enough to be able to solve an issue like that affordably. Just to have a someone else do it, you are talking thousands for labor! Thanks for the well wishes.
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Old 06-25-2008, 04:57 PM   #13
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Have you looked into Zinnsrer Watertite, unlike Drylok the Watertite product states to scrape off as much as you can and paint Watertite over the exsiting painted walls. I have use Drylok and so far am very pleased. (I did not know about the Zinnser product yet at the time) I have an area in the basement where I will be using the Watertite product because it not only waterproofs it guarantees against mold and mildew for five years. I will report on that experience at a later time. Hope this helps.

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