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Old 07-17-2009, 01:52 PM   #1
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water or oil based ?


Im painting masonite siding and im looking for advice on paints and primers.

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Old 07-17-2009, 03:22 PM   #2
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water or oil based ?


Has it ever been painted before? I it has and the paint is both sound and latex, just paint right over it with latex again and you will be fine.

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Old 07-26-2009, 10:38 PM   #3
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water or oil based ?


If it needs to be primed use 100% acrylic primer and two top coats of 100% acrylic such as Sherwin Williams super paint.

Last edited by Scuba_Dave; 08-14-2009 at 05:33 PM. Reason: removed website
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Old 07-27-2009, 09:16 PM   #4
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water or oil based ?


Here is a Duron system have used in the past.


Primer: Bond-N-Seal (1) coat
Finish:signature Life Time (Nothing below Satin however) 2 coats


I would use MaxFlex as the caulk for this and I would caulk it all up, every joint.

Same as every job I do. I always perform any scraping and feather sanding that is needed.


SoftWash(TM) the home using 3.5 gallons of 12.5 % and 8 oz of Simple Cherry as the house wash. Fill the rest of the bucket with water.
This step will remove any dirt, mold, algae and pollutants from deep in the surface. when using low pressure you can spray over your windows to get them clean and streak free. Remember to pre wet all your landscaping and cover with poly plastic during the process and after you finish wet down the landscaping again after plastic is removed.

allow to have 24 hours of full drying time.

Perform your caulking of all the cracks and joints. I always allow to dry in another 24 hours. (This is just me)

Tape up all your windows with poly plastic
Tape up all exterior ceiling fans as well as electrical outlets, wall mounted lights and landscaping.

Apply prime coat using an airless. If it was a pour substrate and it was lap siding, my guys would be back brushing the first coat. The same goes for smooth siding, stucco and t-111, but I would use a roller in these instances.

In about 4 hours you can recoat with the finish coats using the spray method, but you do not need to back brush or roll unless the primer soaked up that much.

You still need to paint all the trim, so you have to learn to use a brush , also priming and using the 2 finish coats.

I always give a 5 year labor warranty on all my paint jobs. Everything is a process that need to be lollowed to the letter of the law. There are many other ways to approach this exterior paint job.

If any homeowners in Pa are looking for a 4Th Generation custom Allentown Paint Contractor, please click the link.


Thanks
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Old 07-28-2009, 04:14 AM   #5
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water or oil based ?


Now this is probably just the way I am reading this but it needs to be clarified. You caulk the underneath of lap siding?
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Old 07-28-2009, 07:10 AM   #6
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water or oil based ?


Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisn View Post
Now this is probably just the way I am reading this but it needs to be clarified. You caulk the underneath of lap siding?

I do not, but are you talking to someone else? If you do that you will have major problems and it will look bad as well when the house settles and the caulking pulls apart leaving a mess for someone else to cut out because the truth is they will not call you back if they have sense.

If it was me I should have been more clear, but in NO circumstance should anyone caulk the underneath of lap siding. Just the joints where they come together on the face of the lap. Where the corner boards and window trim meet the lap and where the freeze board meets.
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Old 07-28-2009, 08:21 AM   #7
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water or oil based ?


Be careful of the caulk you use. Masonite needs to expand.
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Old 07-29-2009, 03:13 AM   #8
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water or oil based ?


Here is what you posted

"Perform your caulking of all the cracks and joints. I always allow to dry in another 24 hours. (This is just me)"

so you can see where a newbie might caulk under the siding, which as we know is a bad thing
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Old 07-29-2009, 07:34 AM   #9
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water or oil based ?


Yeah, that's why I re posted. I know what goes on in my head, but did not put it down in detail like I should have.

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