Update (finally!):My Furniture Painting Project With SW PRO Classic T - Painting - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Painting


Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-13-2012, 10:18 AM   #1
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 16
Rewards Points: 20

Update (finally!):My furniture painting project with SW PRO Classic t

HI. I want to give you all an update on my bedroom furniutre painting project in order to both thank those of you who had given me advice, and to help future diy'ers who might be in the same situation as I was.
My original posts were from back in November, and I was having trouble with both the adhesive primer and the paint--gunking and/or dirpping and sagging. The bedroom furniture I was working on was my daughter's, there were quite a few pieces (ugh!), and it was "French Provencial" style--which means lots of drip-producing curves, spindles and other tricky details, and an original, factory-applied oil based paint finish that needed to be covered with a water-based paint (oil-based gives me severe migraines!)
I had used the Sherwin Williams adhesive primer and then 2-3 coats of SW Pro Classic acrylic. When I complained of the paint sagging and dripping on the second coat, the SW store owner was stumped about my problems, but J Sheridan (I beleive it was him) finally gave me the correct tips when he advised me to apply thinner coats, along with advice to use a smaller brush and roller with the thinnest nap. That is what did the trick! I had to sand down the sags and drips, and apply a third coat on most of the pieces--but it finally all turned out beautiful! It actually looked much better than I had expected. It doesn't look like a DIY project at all (well- ok, if you look very closely you can still find a few dried drips in a few spots, but even I don't see them when I just look at the pieces from eye level.) So thanks to you all here, for this forum and your advice!

I can tell that the paint is very durable--it is not going to come off. It has quite a solid feel and look. I also had quite a time getting it off the mirror glass! (I had decided not to retape it after I removed the tape I had put on before the primer--it took forever to tape around the frame, as there isn't a single straight edge to the mirror- complex curves all around the thing!) However, I would like to warn anyone using this Pro Classic paint to tape windows and mirrors--the paint doesn't scrape off as easily as a standard latex paint does, which I think attests to its "sticking power"!

Awhile back, I had heard a comment on a HGTV show that had led me to have problems with the paint initially. The show said that DIY'ers typically don't put enough paint on the brush, so I initially made sure to load up the paint brush or roller "adequately." That is probably what caused much of my initial problems. That (HGTV) advice must have been mainly applicable to regular flat walls and "regular" latex paint. From reading other posts on this forum, I have since learned that this PRo Classic is a "water-borne acrylic" and that it is different from a standard latex (and therfore more durable for furniture, which is why the SW store recommended it for my project, I gather.)

Thanks again. I hope this helps anyone else using PRo classic to paint furniture!


Last edited by Fun2Learn; 02-13-2012 at 10:20 AM. Reason: Please ignore the "t" at the end of the post title- it doesn't belong there- it is a typo!
Fun2Learn is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Fun2Learn For This Useful Post:
jsheridan (02-13-2012)
Old 02-13-2012, 02:51 PM   #2
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Cape May, NJ
Posts: 2,392
Rewards Points: 1,000

thanks fun2learn, it warms my heart to hear of your success. I'm glad to play a part, that's what makes this all worthwhile. Thanks and keep coming back.


jsheridan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2012, 04:03 PM   #3
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 16
Rewards Points: 20

Thanks, again.

Thanks again, J Sheridan. I also wanted to clarify that, per your advice, I used a 1/8" nap, narrow roller that said it was for stains on the package. (I believe you pros call it a "weenie" roller.) I had originally used a 14" nap roller, since that is labeled for "smooth surfaces". However, for this paint, esp. for the second coat on the vertical surface of very smooth finished furniture, it is evidently too thick of a nap. (Just thought the extra info might come in handy for some other diy'er attempting to use this paint on furniture or cabinets.)
Take care!
Fun2Learn is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
My kitchen update project, wood floors to start! 240sx4u Project Showcase 21 02-26-2011 08:09 AM
painting project, large home interior - need planning help bokeh Painting 9 11-06-2010 09:45 AM
Small project painting technique daviddoria Painting 3 01-13-2010 04:17 AM
furniture painting deck hand Painting 3 11-16-2007 06:43 PM
Update on my project depriate4repair General DIY Discussions 0 03-08-2007 09:54 PM

Top of Page | View New Posts


Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1