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Old 06-30-2010, 09:58 AM   #16
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Trim first or walls


Quote:
Originally Posted by scarrylarry View Post
Mike and all otheres who have responded on this thread.
You know I'm wondering if I have over rolled the paint,what I mean by that is that maybe I went over paint as it was already starting to dry,thus starting to pull it up off the wall.In my opinion it's pretty hard to get it exactly right until you watch a real pro do it.I wonder how big a fact the nap of the roller plays into the scheme of things?
Thanks again to all of you for responding
scarrylarry
I read a thread that asked people to not cut up products.
It did say the opinions were welcomed and that most the problem was from the same people just whining.
So I'll say this.
I have had nothing but trouble using Behr products. I am not a pro by any means, and as a result from my last timely job of using a very cheap Behr primer I never tape anymore or use Behr.
I scraped my ceiling, mud flat ( which was alot of work; man those contractors don't do any decent work under that popcorn finish ) primed ceiling and wall, painted the ceiling white, taped, painted the walls and when I pulled the tape away from the ceiling I litterally ripped the ceiling down. no matter how light and gentle I pulled the paint was coming off.
it cost me alot of time anfd frustration.
I had to remud, prime and cut in the ceiling all over.
My opinion is that quality paint saves you money.

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Old 06-30-2010, 10:09 AM   #17
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Good to know iceracer!Thanks for posting that up,we have one of their stores 5 minutes away.
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Old 06-30-2010, 10:16 AM   #18
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I would agree with not using this site for continious slamming of products.
But in my own opinion if I could prevent someone from going through a ton of hassles and frustration, and money saved by saying, I don't care for a certain item I would feel like I helped someone out.thanks for your reply on the paint.
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Old 06-30-2010, 10:55 AM   #19
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We used SICO for years and years without too many problems. A decent paint at a decent price. They sell it at RONA but try to get it at a paint store. You will get better service and more accurate tinting.

As for taping, pros use tape all the time. Not because we can't free-hand it, but because brushing against a taped surface can save a lot of time especially if you are doing 2 or more coats. Obviously we don't tape everything, but base boards and other-below-eye-level horizontal surfaces that you will be rolling down to are good candidates because it is difficult to cut those lines straight and tape protects the surface from roller spray.
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Old 06-30-2010, 12:39 PM   #20
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Thanks for that reply Windows!
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Old 06-30-2010, 04:51 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 295yards View Post
I read a thread that asked people to not cut up products.
It did say the opinions were welcomed and that most the problem was from the same people just whining.
So I'll say this.
I have had nothing but trouble using Behr products. I am not a pro by any means, and as a result from my last timely job of using a very cheap Behr primer I never tape anymore or use Behr.
I scraped my ceiling, mud flat ( which was alot of work; man those contractors don't do any decent work under that popcorn finish ) primed ceiling and wall, painted the ceiling white, taped, painted the walls and when I pulled the tape away from the ceiling I litterally ripped the ceiling down. no matter how light and gentle I pulled the paint was coming off.
it cost me alot of time anfd frustration.
I had to remud, prime and cut in the ceiling all over.
My opinion is that quality paint saves you money

You got that right!
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Old 06-30-2010, 06:00 PM   #22
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Alright I'm going to the Sherwin Williams store for the first time tomorrow,it's about 5 minutes away from me..I'm going there to buy some oil based white trim paint, semi gloss.Any suggestions, as I am taking your fellas advice and going to try their products?
Thanks
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Old 06-30-2010, 06:33 PM   #23
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Aye, scary.....yer in Canada eh, store gonna be closed tomorrow.

I'm a water based paint man myself, hardly ever use oil anymore.
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Old 06-30-2010, 08:37 PM   #24
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Your right, forgot all about it.Smelling to many paint fumes, LOL!
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Old 07-01-2010, 04:50 AM   #25
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I would skip the oil and use this.
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Old 07-02-2010, 01:00 PM   #26
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ChrisN
Okay but can I put that latex based over wood that had previously been painted with oil or do I have to primer it first?And if I have to primer it first can I use the Zinnser product that i used for the pine pitch problem?Just anything I need to know regarding latex over oil.Also what's that tip to see if the previous finish id oil or latex,something about rubbing alcohol I think? Here's anothere edit to this reply.If it's a whole whack of work to prep for the latex because it may be an oil finish on there originaly maybe i should go with a sherwin williams oil product.sorry for all the questions.
Many Thanks
scarrylarry

Last edited by scarrylarry; 07-02-2010 at 03:54 PM. Reason: information
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Old 07-02-2010, 05:31 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scarrylarry View Post
ChrisN
Okay but can I put that latex based over wood that had previously been painted with oil or do I have to primer it first? You can paint anything over top of the oil PRIMER if I have to primer it first can I use the Zinnser product that i used for the pine pitch problem? yes anything I need to know regarding latex over oil. as long as it is primed, no what's that tip to see if the previous finish id oil or latex,something about rubbing alcohol I think? Denatured alcolol or nail polish remover of Goof Off will tell you it is latex Here's anothere edit to this reply.If it's a whole whack of work to prep for the latex because it may be an oil finish on there originaly maybe i should go with a sherwin williams oil product.sorry for all the questions.
Many Thanks
scarrylarry
You can just plain not use any more oil based products... There are many latex based primers that will do the job of oil, just ask at the store and tell them what you are doing, they will help, that's what they are there for.

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