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-   -   Trim caulking before paint? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/trim-caulking-before-paint-113732/)

MikeKy55 08-11-2011 10:01 PM

Trim caulking before paint?
 
Anyone care to share some tips on caulking new trim before painting the first time? Still working on the basement project....... I'm installing doors and base now. I know I will need to caulk the base where it meets the walls in some spots. My question is, do you caulk everything? tricks to limit the amount of mess and/or waste? The trim will all be white when I'm done. Thanks in advance.

housepaintingny 08-11-2011 10:09 PM

Cut the tip at a 45 degree angle and don't cut it to large. Hold the caulk gun at an angle and use a wet rag to wipe away excess. Once you caulk for a while you will get the feel for the caulk gun and won't waste much.

Brushjockey 08-11-2011 10:14 PM

If it's new wood, or your painting over varnish(which needs to be sanded first), prime, caulk and fill holes-depending on topcoat- either re prime (because of spackle- or spot prime spackle), and 2 top coats of finish.
You will see what needs it so much easier after prime.
caulking isn't easy- use sparingly and wipe it first with a finger, then a damp rag to get excess .

MikeKy55 08-11-2011 10:23 PM

Thanks to both of you. I should have mentioned I'm using preprimed 3.5 inch base. I figured I would need to prime it all again before painting. I would like for it to be pretty slick when done.

m1951mm 08-12-2011 02:16 AM

Before applying your caulk make sure that any joint compound around the baseboards is primed also. Caulk will not hold to raw drywall mud. I am in the camp of using a finger to smooth the caulk into the joint and then wipe with damp rag.

chrisn 08-12-2011 05:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeKy55 (Post 705339)
Thanks to both of you. I should have mentioned I'm using preprimed 3.5 inch base. I figured I would need to prime it all again before painting. I would like for it to be pretty slick when done.



Very good!:thumbsup:

jsheridan 08-12-2011 09:41 AM

I like my tips cut below 45 degrees, as I think 45 doesn't give as much pinpoint accuracy. I like the hole to be just wide enough to take a finish nail.
Keep the tip resting on the surface.
Work the trigger with gentle, even, steady pressure. No pumping the trigger.
Keep the gun moving. Your speed is how you adjust the amount applied.
Don't surface fill joints. If you have a decent sized gap, move slower so the gap fills. If you move too fast you'll only apply enough to bridge the gap and the stuff will shrink and open up.
Caulk everything. Technically, all wood joins should be caulked, whether they're gapped or not. What is tight and closed now might not be in six months after settlement, especially important exterior. Also, if you have a stretch of baseboard with caulked/non-caulked sections, it could be noticeable when you're done. Remember, you're altering a surface, and paint highlights altered surfaces.
Use two hands. One on the trigger with the end of the gun cupped in the other, like a shotgun.
Always work backwards into previously caulked areas.
Apply your bead, not getting too far ahead, keep a wet rag, wet your finger to smooth. Wipe the excess on your rag.
If you caulk doorframe mitres, fill the gap and rub it in/wipe with the rag.
When you run down a door frame return, don't stop in the corner at the base, take it out on to the base an inch or two. When the frames are done, just run the base and connect the two door frames.
Be sure that you dust the surface prior to caulking.
For real tight detail work, you can use a small latex brush and a pot of water.
Be mindful not to round your corners. Don't apply too much that you obliterate the 90 degree angle of trim joints.
Use caulk to reinforce the drywall corners. Applying a bead of caulk around the ceiling perimeter also helps to get a nice clean cut line when you're working with high contrast colors.
Get a good quality dripless gun. A cheap caulk gun is the worst possible tool anyone could buy.
I use caulk for a lot of purposes, and I'm pretty anal about how it's applied. There is nothing more detracting to a paint finish than a lousy caulk job. Take your time.
Joe

Oh, and never caulk unprimed wood, gypsum, or other porous surfaces. It will draw the vehicle out of the caulk, it will lose its elasticity, and will fail prematurely. Always putty and caulk after priming.

kwikfishron 08-12-2011 09:59 AM

You can always get a few good caulking tips from this guy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jXgeSd-57A

chrisn 08-12-2011 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwikfishron (Post 705600)
You can always get a few good caulking tips from this guy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jXgeSd-57A


:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:

m1951mm 08-12-2011 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwikfishron (Post 705600)
You can always get a few good caulking tips from this guy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jXgeSd-57A

You have to be kidding. That paint job would look like dog doo doo if you caulked like that guy did!!!!!!!!!! Oops, I forgot to mention he is for EXPERT Village. Man what a joke.

kwikfishron 08-12-2011 06:39 PM

I thought you all would get a kick out of that. :laughing:

I personally like the dirt clods hanging off the tip.

jsheridan 08-12-2011 06:49 PM

I've met guys like that. I worked alongside one one time, a guy in his late fifties, a lifer. I said Charlie, let me show you a trick with that gun. He says leave me alone, what are you doing. I said I'm just trying to show you how to be a better painter. He says, "I don't want to be a better painter." Nuff said Chal. That's legend, and is oft spoken of and relived when I'm in the presence of those on that crew.
Thanks Kwikfish, dirt clods, lol,lol.

mustangmike3789 08-12-2011 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsheridan (Post 705889)
I've met guys like that. I worked alongside one one time, a guy in his late fifties, a lifer. I said Charlie, let me show you a trick with that gun. He says leave me alone, what are you doing. I said I'm just trying to show you how to be a better painter. He says, "I don't want to be a better painter." Nuff said Chal. That's legend, and is oft spoken of and relived when I'm in the presence of those on that crew.
Thanks Kwikfish, dirt clods, lol,lol.

i work with a complete idiot like that...

kwikfishron 08-12-2011 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mustangmike3789 (Post 705917)
i work with a complete idiot like that...

Sorry to hear that, but it's your turn. :laughing:

MikeKy55 08-12-2011 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsheridan (Post 705583)
I like my tips cut below 45 degrees, as I think 45 doesn't give as much pinpoint accuracy. I like the hole to be just wide enough to take a finish nail.
Keep the tip resting on the surface.
Work the trigger with gentle, even, steady pressure. No pumping the trigger.
Keep the gun moving. Your speed is how you adjust the amount applied.
Don't surface fill joints. If you have a decent sized gap, move slower so the gap fills. If you move too fast you'll only apply enough to bridge the gap and the stuff will shrink and open up.
Caulk everything. Technically, all wood joins should be caulked, whether they're gapped or not. What is tight and closed now might not be in six months after settlement, especially important exterior. Also, if you have a stretch of baseboard with caulked/non-caulked sections, it could be noticeable when you're done. Remember, you're altering a surface, and paint highlights altered surfaces.
Use two hands. One on the trigger with the end of the gun cupped in the other, like a shotgun.
Always work backwards into previously caulked areas.
Apply your bead, not getting too far ahead, keep a wet rag, wet your finger to smooth. Wipe the excess on your rag.
If you caulk doorframe mitres, fill the gap and rub it in/wipe with the rag.
When you run down a door frame return, don't stop in the corner at the base, take it out on to the base an inch or two. When the frames are done, just run the base and connect the two door frames.
Be sure that you dust the surface prior to caulking.
For real tight detail work, you can use a small latex brush and a pot of water.
Be mindful not to round your corners. Don't apply too much that you obliterate the 90 degree angle of trim joints.
Use caulk to reinforce the drywall corners. Applying a bead of caulk around the ceiling perimeter also helps to get a nice clean cut line when you're working with high contrast colors.
Get a good quality dripless gun. A cheap caulk gun is the worst possible tool anyone could buy.
I use caulk for a lot of purposes, and I'm pretty anal about how it's applied. There is nothing more detracting to a paint finish than a lousy caulk job. Take your time.
Joe

Oh, and never caulk unprimed wood, gypsum, or other porous surfaces. It will draw the vehicle out of the caulk, it will lose its elasticity, and will fail prematurely. Always putty and caulk after priming.


Thanks everyone! But I really appreciate you taking the time to detail this like you did. Saved to my hard drive. I may quote you one day. :thumbup:


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