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Lowriderchic 12-19-2009 08:19 PM

Tips on Glazing Kitchen Cabinets
 
Greetings to all. Me and hubby have been working on new kitchen and have done everything ourselves. I am going to glaze the cabinet doors and would like to know suggestions, comments, what not to do etc, on glazing the cabinet doors.
Cabinets and doors were primed with Kiltz 2 latex primer and then painted with BenMoore light cream color called "bare" latex semi-gloss paint. The doors are mitered/raized panel doors. I want to put a glaze on them in a mocha color and have it hold in the crevices of the doors. My question is what is the best way to do this??? Should I use the BenMoore glaze and mix it with the paint color that I want and wipe on wipe off?? Should I brush the glaze on? We have worked very hard on this and I really do not want to mess this up. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks :thumbsup:

Bob Mariani 12-19-2009 08:53 PM

Glazing I've used was applied after the sealer but before any top coats. I have no idea how you will detail the grain after a paint primer.

Rcon 12-20-2009 12:41 AM

You can find glazes in a spray can by Mohawk. Other manufacturers will have them as well. The idea is to spray them on (I believe you can find a brushing glaze as well but don't know any individual products to steer you to), then wipe off the excess before it dries, leaving the glaze in the crevices. You will only have a certain amount of time (depending on glaze/instructions) to apply topcoats over the glaze. Topcoats would have to be lacquer or urethane - or another clear coat compatible with your glaze. Topcoats must be sprayed so as not to damage the glaze. I don't think there is a very long open window for doing this before adhesion will become an issue. You can't glaze and leave it - it has to be topcoated.

You will need to be sure your products are all compatible with eachother or you will have paint failure - such as blistering, peeling or chipping paint.

If I were you, I would avoid doing a glaze and leave well enough alone - you could ruin your kitchen quite easily. I would also suggest hiring a pro to finish the job, but because you have already painted your cabinets yourself (I assume over a clearcoat), I doubt anyone will take it because there is now a high risk of paint failure and adhesion issues.

user1007 12-20-2009 07:38 AM

Are you trying to add a glaze coat for some sort of faux finish or do you just want to fill in existing recesses cut as a pattern into the cabinets?

Whatever you do, remember to leave the semi-gloss alone to cure for 30 days or so before you do too much or you could have a mess.

The Benjamin Moore glazing liquids are fine. You might like those and some artist's color and mediums at an art store better.

As long as everything is latex at this point? You should be fine with compatibility. You can put a top coat if you want but the glazing mediums should be 100 percent acrylic anyhow.

If it is just crevices in a pre-cut pattern? And you want the doors themselves not to have the darker color I wouldn't use a glaze? I would try an artist's brush or even better once you get used to it, a pinstriping brush or pinstriping roller with the mocha color. You could do this after the recoat time recommended.

Try a sample first.

Lowriderchic 12-20-2009 07:39 PM

Im not really sure what you call the finish I want but I will try and explain. The way I understand it is first the cabinets are painted, then you apply a glaze over the entire door and wipe off the excess therefore leaving the glaze in the moldings of the mitered door. Then the final finish is sprayed with a top coat. I have read and researched this and there seems to be lots of ways to do this but Im not sure which way is the best.
I have also considered the "General finishes Glazes" sold at Rockler. It is mixed and ready to apply and comes in a brown color that might work. Has anyone ever used this product??
So If I was to use an artist brush to do this would I still use the same glaze/mixture as I would if I was to wipe on/wipe off? Must you wait that long for the semi-gloss paint to cure?? I really appreciate you guys! Thanks to everyone who has posted a reply. I will try and get a photo soon so you can see the doors. These are newly built cabinets also. Thanks!

user1007 12-21-2009 07:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lowriderchic (Post 369952)
Im not really sure what you call the finish I want but I will try and explain. The way I understand it is first the cabinets are painted, then you apply a glaze over the entire door and wipe off the excess therefore leaving the glaze in the moldings of the mitered door.

Must you wait that long for the semi-gloss paint to cure?? I really appreciate you guys! Thanks to everyone who has posted a reply. I will try and get a photo soon so you can see the doors. These are newly built cabinets also. Thanks!

Can you post a picture or URL link to the look you are trying to achieve? It would be helpful.

As for needing to let semi-gloss cure? The surface of latex semi-gloss/gloss will harden enough that you can put an additional coat on it within hours or overnight. But the paint underneath that dry to the touch "skin" takes awhile to cure. If you start wiping away at the uncured surface with a cloth like you will probably need for glazing, you risk tearing that thin layer and digging into the curing emulsion of the paint. You did use Benjamin Moore paint so that will be more forgiving than some paint people use on this site.

It sounds like you have done a great job on these new cabinets so far. I would not apply glazes and risk wiping them off until your base coat cures for 30 days.

If you find a product you can tread lightly with that might be another story. Again, it will help if you can point me to what you are trying to achieve.

Lowriderchic 12-21-2009 07:33 PM

2 Attachment(s)
The first photo is our work in progress and the photo of the cabinet door is the finish that I am looking for (maybee a bit darker on the glaze):thumbup::thumbsup:

paintpimp 12-21-2009 07:58 PM

3 Attachment(s)
I just finished my own cabinets. I painted them with a shellac primer, followed with an acrylic latex, for the glaze I used gel stain, applied it with a brush and wiped off. It gives a different look, glazed with an antiqued look. Finally topcoat with a urethane.[ATTACH][ATTACH]Attachment 15717[/ATTACH][/ATTACH]

slickshift 12-23-2009 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lowriderchic
..the photo of the cabinet door is the finish that I am looking for (maybee a bit darker on the glaze)

To get that effect I'd use a "gel stain" rather than a "glaze"

You would apply the stain, then wipe it off (where you don't want it)
As you want more stain in the recess areas, it should be pretty easy as far as faux finishes go
Just don't try too hard to wipe it off in those areas
I'd still practice to get the effect you want
If you do mess up a door, remember "your base coat is your eraser", just apply another base coat over the messed up door

I'd then apply poly over the finish to protect it

user1007 12-24-2009 03:36 AM

I agree that a gel stain or wax/pigment product of some sort might be the best idea. There is no reason to glaze since you want the added color in just limited areas. And note how easy it was for the other person posting pictures to get build up in the corners. Go slow and have tons of cloths strong enough you can get a putty knife into for that situation. With a wax pigment product you would not have to poly over it. Of course you will have to get the wax off if you ever want to paint over it.

Sure you really want to do this? Your kitchen in progress photos look really nice and bright without trying this faux finish? Most real estate people I work with would tell you the look you are after is not something all would lust to have in their kitchen. No issue if you are going to live in the house forever I guess.

Do let the paint cure before you start rubbing on it or you could be sorry. I don't mean to nag. But you will be stressing the finish a lot with either a gel stain or wax pigment product.

Lowriderchic 12-24-2009 11:30 PM

Thanks to all of you that have posted to this topic. Paintpimp your cabinets are beautiful, and thanks for posting the photos! So you can apply a gel stain over a painted cabinet??? I dont think I was that clear on the look that I was trying to achieve. I should have posted that I do not want to glaze the entire cabinet, I want it just in the crevices. Thanks sdsester for saying that for me :) What do you guys think about "General Finishes" glaze that you can get at Rockler??? Think that would work?? Yep sdsester we are going to be here forever. Ha Ha :) Merry Xmas to all!!

Bob Mariani 12-25-2009 07:10 AM

Yes this brand of glaze will work for the effect you want. Still coat the entire door, let sit 10-15 minutes then wipe off with a burlap cloth.

Lowriderchic 01-07-2010 11:52 AM

Hello everyone. Well I did a test run on my practice door using the general finishes brown glaze from Rockler. Remember this is just a test run. The Glaze is a bit thin but beautiful and a great product. I didnt have the correct brush etc...:whistling2: Just a trial run. It went well considering not having the right stuff. I am going to try it a different way like you guys suggested with a gel stain and a artist brush. So now I am off to the get stuff store to get the right stuff that I need. The door turned out good but I am also going to try a gel stain to eliminate some of the wiping off the excess glaze :thumbup:. Thanks to all who have posted!! When I get the finish that I want I will post a picture.

ponch37300 01-07-2010 12:42 PM

3 Attachment(s)
I did something similar with my cabinets this summer. Sprayed primer, paint, then glazed, then top coated. Lots of work but turned out pretty good. I just used a foam brush to wipe the glaze on and then used a cloth to wipe off excess. I bought all my stuff at sherwin williams and they were very helpful with advice since this was my first time glazing. They even had me paint a door and bring it in and they glazed it for me to show me how and make sure it was the right tint of glaze. I would recommend using a paint store like this because they know what they are talking about and can answer any question you have, it's worth the extra price you pay for paint over a box store. Here are some pictures.

Attachment 16317

Attachment 16319

Attachment 16320

Lowriderchic 01-09-2010 09:04 PM

What type of gel stain can I use??? Can a use a oil based one over my water based latex paint??? I looked for some gel stains but they were all oil based???


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