Time between coats of paint/primer

joeyboy

Okay, so I am priming a 6 panel fir door with an oil based gray S&W primer. It says wait 24 hrs before topcoating, which I will.


However, I was told (by a home depot clerk....), that after putting on my first coat of red, I should let that coat dry 24 hours (even though the bucket says 4hrs).

So, should I just do second/third coats after the 4hrs, or should I wait overnight after that first red coat?





<<<< Got another question here. Is this okay? I have a matte red paint, but I want my door to be a satin finish. So I got a tiny thing of satin red from S&W today. They're both latex, exterior paints. Is it cool for me to use my matte red for my first coat, then use the SW satin red for my 2nd/3rd coats?>>>>>>>

poppameth

Surprisingly enough the HD guy gave you good advice. Deep colors with lots of pigment, especially reds, do benefit from longer dry time. The amount of pigment slows down the cure time of the paint. Allowing 24 hours insures that you don't reactivate the paint with a fresh coat and allows for better coverage. Edit: Matte should be fine as the base coat.

joeyboy

Coolness! So to make sure I have this 100% straight,

1) primed yesterday with gray, oil based, exterior SW primer
2) will topcoat today with LOWE's (olympic brand) red matte latex exterior
3) tomorrow will apply my SW, red, satin, latex exterior
4) day after tomorrow, apply 3rd coat of SW red, satin, latex


<< On second thought, I think I'll topcoat today with the satin SW paint, and just do 1 more coat tomorrow, no matte base coat. Primer usually spreads less than paint right? I got 2 containers of the same size yesterday (primer and paint) at SW, and priming didn't even use more than 40% of that container, so my satin red should make 2 coats no problem>>


(and damn, that SW primer takes its time drying huh! Applied last night ~6-7:30ish, kept with heavy fans til around 9, and it's still tacky this morning! I can actually put fingerprints in the thick spots (not on the door, the drip on the can))

joeyboy

(sorry but I've got another q!!! When I was priming yesterday, I must not've sanded properly in 1 spot because I pulled a grain up, and now there's a small dent. Is this repairable or just let it be? When prepping the door I sanded it, used wood putty for any defects, and taped it (since the 4 thin sides are all white - interior swinging door with red exterior face). Can I use the wood putty on that dent now that it's got a primer coat? )

poppameth

A good exterior filler should work fine to fill it in even over primer. I didn't realize you had Olympic in the Matte finish. You are just as well not using that. It'll probably hurt more than it helps.

joeyboy

Coolness, so just do 2 coats with the SW satin then. I'm pretty sure I have enough for 2 solid coats, it should spread better than the primer and I didn't do half of that when I primed.

You seemed to be disliking of olympic - that's what I've been using on a lot, it is the premium version, like $80 for a 5 gal. Am I gonna be seeing a lot of cracking/peeling in a short period of time?

Hamilton

Whoa...

A 5'er of Dunn-Edwards premium grade exterior latex costs me near $130 now, and I get major discount!

__________________
People sleep peacefully at night because rough men stand guard to deal with violence on their behalf.

joeyboy

I paid $40/5gal for speedwall white latex interior


Been holding up well so far, unfortunately 4 months really isn't enough of a time to test I guess!!!

poppameth

I haven't used Olympic myself. I've had several Lowes customers in my store over the past couple of months looking for a better alternative. I've mainly been hearing of application issues. I have no real feedback on longevity at this point.

joeyboy

It was kinda runny during application, but it was probably the 2nd or 3rd time I'd painted in my life, so I'm really in no position to compare/complain lol!!! <<wait no, that's the speed wall>>


The olympic has gone awesome, I'm just freaked out now that it's all gonna peel!!! Well, what's done is done, at least I prepped (sanded/primed) totally proper for the job, if the paint fails it fails!!!




(btw, what do you guys pay for a 5gal of what you'd consider high end? Hamilton, was that one you mentioned your high end type product? Just curious!)

sirwired

$80 for a fiver really isn't very expensive as far as paint goes. The best Olympic you can buy at Lowe's is not Olympic's best paint, just as the best Glidden at HD is not the best paint Glidden makes.

You really need just stick with quality SW paint. (Which SW paint are you using? I wouldn't use anything lower down in grade than SuperPaint, and Duration has a LOT of fans here, although it is pricey.)

SirWired

sirwired

$8/gallon paint is really meant only for same-color repaints of things like high-turnover rental property or garages.

Next time you paint, you will find your painting could be a lot easier and looks much better with higher-quality paint. (Fewer spatters, fewer drips, better sheen uniformity, better scrubability, better smoothness, etc.)

SirWired

Hamilton

Yes, and from a professional view the extra dollars are cheap insurance. Nothing worse than a home owner complaining about faded dull paint three years down the road. Most paint damage out here comes from the sun's intense UV.

Dude, I gotta apologize to you, I thought you were in construction....got you mixed up with someone else, I guess. That's why my advise in the beginning was blunt...sorry about that.

__________________
People sleep peacefully at night because rough men stand guard to deal with violence on their behalf.

joeyboy

hahaha no problem! I never really swung a hammer before I got this house lol! The extent of what I've done before getting this place is basically mowing my dad's lawn, and doing crappy paint jobs for him at his house

joeyboy

I'm using superpaint (and s100 or h100... something"100" oil based exterior primer by SW too).

Let me ask you guys something, I got a quart of that paint in satin red for doing just the exterior side (all 5 other sides are white). How many coats should that quart do on just 1 side of a 36" X 79" door, roughly?

(I think I've needed to do 3 coats of paint on a lot of things becuase I'm going way too thin. I only used ~30% *max* of that quart, I feel I can't control my brush strokes as smooth if I use any thicker! BTW there's a real good chance I'm throwing down for a purdy brush today!!

I know it wasn't in this thread, but I was told to get a purdy for ~$20. I didn't. I decided to get a better one though, for $7. If it were $20, I would've cared for it differently, but it wasn't. So, I've gone through 2 of those, and if I get another today, i'm now $20 in the hole for brushes, and holding a $7 brush, where if I got the purdy off the bat, I'd be $20 in the hole and still have a nice purdy - definitely would've been babying it!!)