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Old 02-02-2013, 07:27 PM   #1
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Textured Ceiling/Ghosting/Ceiling Crack


I have a large livingroom ceiling that is textured. It doesn't look like the typical "popcorn" ceiling to me. It is very hard and no pieces come off with rubbing. It isn't a uniform texture throughout - some areas are smoother than others. How was this done - with compound by hand?

I would like to smooth out the ceiling. It doesn't seem like wetting it down and scraping would work like removing a popcorn ceiling. Would painting smooth it out or am I looking at lots of sanding to smooth it down?

I don't hate the textured look BUT in the second picture you can see what appears to be paint roller marks? I am not sure if the ceiling was painted after this textured effect was done or if the roller made the textured look??? I can deal with a somewhat textured look but I would like to get rid of the roller marks. Is there a way to do that by getting a new coat of paint on it?

You may also notice the ghosting in the second pic. I have read about thermal bridging but am not sure if this is what I am dealing with or the fact that I have a 1940s house with a brick fireplace in this room that was used and the soot has collected on the beams because they are cooler in temp than the insulated walls. I was considering coating with BIN to hide the ghosting no matter what I decide to do.

There is one crack in the ceiling. There doesn't seem to be any water damage around it or anything else that seems like it would've cause the crack. My best guess is that someone was in the attic and didn't put his/her foot on the ceiling beam and put their foot down on the drywall instead and oops cracked it. Is there a way to fix this without removing that entire piece of drywall or sheetrock (whatever they make ceilings with?).

Can I get options for each issue? Thanks.
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Old 02-02-2013, 08:30 PM   #2
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Textured Ceiling/Ghosting/Ceiling Crack


It's not what is commonly referred to as a "popcorn" texture looks like hand stippled to me. It would take a lot of sanding over the painted ceiling and skimming with joint compound to make it smooth but it can be done.As far as the crack, I think you have plaster instead of drywall.I wold screw drywall scews on each side into the lathe to stop any movement so the crack doesn't happen again,sand the area around the crack smooth,tape it with fiberglass mesh tape and skim it with joint compound.If you decide to leave the texture you can try to texture the patched spot with joint compound and a stippling brush to blend it in with the existing texture.The second pic looks to be roller lap marks.Finish by painting with two coats of a quality flat ceiling paint and it will take care of that.

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Old 02-02-2013, 08:39 PM   #3
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Textured Ceiling/Ghosting/Ceiling Crack


MsKitty, that looks like a textured paint applied with a specialty roller, and it's not a good job at that. It also looks like someone put a sheen paint over top of it and the marks you are seeing is because it was rolled every which way, and you're seeing lap marks. That's what I see.
Short of re-rocking that ceiling, I would apply two coats of a dead flat ceiling paint. The sheen is only making a bad situation worse, and use some floor/table lamps to soften the light. That would really change the look.
I would try to fix that crack with a highly elastic caulk, or construction adhesive to close it. A textured ceiling can absorb a minor defect like that. You'll never reproduce that texture if you decide to patch with joint compound.
Wash the walls and apply the BIN, then finish. Is the ceiling ghosting as well?
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Old 02-02-2013, 08:46 PM   #4
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I disagree, caulking will eventually fail if the movement is not stopped.I could match the texture close enough to blend in, not perfectly, but close.
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Old 02-02-2013, 08:59 PM   #5
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Textured Ceiling/Ghosting/Ceiling Crack


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I disagree, caulking will eventually fail if the movement is not stopped.I could match the texture close enough to blend in, not perfectly, but close.
YOU might be able to do it, but she's the one who will be doing it, big distinction. From the looks of the crack, I think she has it right in that it was probably a foot through the attic. It stops on both ends in the pic, not consistent with a stress crack. I agree that caulk is not the best long term solution, but if it was a foot, it's done cracking. I've used construction adhesive before on troublesome cracks, and they never come back. I learned that little trick on a DIY show.

I thought you would disagree on the texture. After reading you and looking closer it looks less like textured paint than a compound type of texture.
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Old 02-02-2013, 09:04 PM   #6
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I am not surprised by the bad job the previous homeowner did. The lap marks created by rolling every which way seems reasonable to me as well. What is a "sheen" paint? Is that sort of like a semi-gloss on walls - the high gloss look? How much of the texture do you think will disappear by applying two coats of flat ceiling paint?

If I apply the elastic caulk to the ceiling crack will it still be visible or will the caulk hide it somewhat? I really don't think it is plaster so I am not sure putting screws in either side of the crack will work - only because I am not sure the crack (assuming drywall) runs along the beam...but it may...so I wouldn't be anchoring the screws into anything. I did notice when I took the picture that I can push up slightly on the left side of the crack and the ceiling can be pushed up slightly...but very slightly.

The ceiling is ghosting as well as the walls. Everything in this room was painted antique white....walls, woodwork, etc. and it is so blah. I am really hoping the BIN will solve the ghosting issue for both walls and ceiling.
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Old 02-02-2013, 09:11 PM   #7
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She could do it with a little effort.Good thing about trying to match it with compound-If you don't get it right the first time it will sand off easily for another try. Ms.kitty said the house was built in the forties, that's why I think it's a stress crack in plaster and not drywall.I'm not saying you are wrong JS, just my humble opinion.
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Old 02-02-2013, 09:12 PM   #8
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So you guys think it was probably done with a stippling brush vs textured paint? I can take more pics if you need. It is just very weird to me that some of it is more textured and other spots are smoother but I know nothing about texturing.

I honestly don't think the crack is getting bigger. I really do think it was a foot through the attic type deal because there is a vent on that side of the house that can be checked from within the attic. I know this because we checked them just a month ago to make sure there was still screen on them. I believe the vent is right above the crack making me think when it was checked someone slipped and stepped on the ceiling.
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Old 02-02-2013, 09:16 PM   #9
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I don't know if this helps but the walls are drywall and not plaster. Doesn't plaster go along with lathe? We def don't have plaster and lathe on the walls. So would they have used plaster and lathe on the ceiling if walls are drywall? There are no other ceiling cracks in any of the rooms but we do have a couple of cracks below two windows which I am pretty sure are stress cracks.
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Old 02-02-2013, 09:35 PM   #10
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Textured Ceiling/Ghosting/Ceiling Crack


Quote:
Originally Posted by MsKitty32 View Post
I am not surprised by the bad job the previous homeowner did. The lap marks created by rolling every which way seems reasonable to me as well. What is a "sheen" paint? Is that sort of like a semi-gloss on walls - the high gloss look? How much of the texture do you think will disappear by applying two coats of flat ceiling paint?
Correct. Sheen is gloss, to one degree or another. The one picture looks like a satin, which is a horrible choice, personal opinion, for a textured ceiling, even a competently done one. Anything that disrupts light causes shadows, and texture disrupts light. Satin reflects light so the whole ceiling becomes a sea of shadows. Even the roller marks on the sheen paint are differences in the texture of the paint film. Flat doesn't reflect light and it will hide defects and differences in texture much better.

If I apply the elastic caulk to the ceiling crack will it still be visible or will the caulk hide it somewhat? I really don't think it is plaster so I am not sure putting screws in either side of the crack will work - only because I am not sure the crack (assuming drywall) runs along the beam...but it may...so I wouldn't be anchoring the screws into anything. I did notice when I took the picture that I can push up slightly on the left side of the crack and the ceiling can be pushed up slightly...but very slightly.

Cdaniels is correct in what he said, caulk is not the best option, and it may or may not last long term. But if you're doing it yourself, it's the best option to get a clean acceptable outcome on a textured surface. If you play with the caulk the right way, to feather the crack out, but don't slather it on, combined with the flat it should be fine. Textured ceilings have a lot going on, that's why I said it could absorb a defect like that, especially on a ceiling that large it's a minor flaw. If you end up BIN' ing the ceiling, caulk before the BIN. Personally, I wouldn't use BIN on just the areas of the ceiling where the ghosting is occurring, but the whole ceiling, fun city, as you could end up with a non-uniform flat appearance.

The ceiling is ghosting as well as the walls. Everything in this room was painted antique white....walls, woodwork, etc. and it is so blah. I am really hoping the BIN will solve the ghosting issue for both walls and ceiling.
Hope that helps.

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Old 02-02-2013, 10:31 PM   #11
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If it is drywall I would still tape it minus the screws but that's just me. I ASSumed it was plaster because of the age of the house. I have never tried the construction adhesive fix, I may give it a shot sometime but I personally have never caulked a crack in drywall or plaster that didn't open back up within a few months.Here is an article that may help you stop the "ghosting" from reoccurring.Good luck. http://articles.latimes.com/2010/jun...spect-20100620
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Old 02-02-2013, 10:39 PM   #12
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Why not have someone in the attic hold down a strip of plywood over that crack and add some screws from below to keep that crack from moving before trying to repair it from below it.
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Old 02-02-2013, 10:56 PM   #13
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ok here's what I think. If you can put a couple of screws up there and catch a rafter good. If not I don't think its a big deal ,but with out being up close and personable who knows? anywho get a mini roller and a small tub of joint compound. mix in some water to thin it out a little, then roll compound over the crack. But keep it small don't make a mountain out of a mole hill. Finish off with some flat ceiling paint Bing bang boom done. p/s you know what? caulk on the crack is not a bad idea either.
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:59 AM   #14
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OK my $.02 worth first determine if it is drywall or plaster, if plaster drywall screws will probably not work unless you put those little plastic circle things on them. Chaulk will work for the crack as long as it's repaired so it doesn't move anymore. As far as the texture you could probably re-texture one the existing with something like a knockdown. Or a lot of scraping and sanding and a skim coat, then prime and paint. Neither a fun job. You may want to look at this for the crack it's new I think, I've used it a couple times and was pleasantly surprised http://stepsaverproducts.com/Stress-...7.qscstrfrnt06
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Old 02-04-2013, 02:52 PM   #15
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Upon further inspection of this crack...

1) It is def drywall.
2) The crack is pretty much along the wooden beam of the ceiling - so I am throwing out my idea that someone stepped on the actual ceiling while they were in the attic. It actually looks more like they stepped on that beam (close to where the crack is I am thinking) and for some reason it cracked the drywall. Would that happen? Or better yet, should that happen - stepping on the beam and cracking the drywall piece nailed to it? Again, no other cracks in the ceilings in any other rooms. And we have been up in the attic on numerous occasions walking around on the beams checking things out and no other ceiling cracks have come about.
3) I am attaching three more pics. In the first - hopefully you can see the ghosting - you shoud be able to see that the cracks runs right along the beam or pretty darn close. The second pic shows the part of the crack that deviates from the straight line of the crack. I just wanted to make sure everyone saw that it isn't just a straight as an arrow crack here. I wasn't sure if that would change the way to fix it. And third picture, is the entire crack again in a pic I just took.
4) I am wondering if it would be wise to try to find that beam - that may sound stupid - bc who wants it to crack more but I am pretty sure now this beam isn't directly below the vent on the outside wall. In fact, this crack is on a beam that is just to the one side of the center beam we walk on up in the attic to go from one end of the house to the other. So, I am wondering if the sucker won't crack more if we have to go up in the attic to walk along that center beam. I cannot say with 100% certainty that since we noticed the crack and after having been up in the attic walking around that the crack hasn't lengthened. I don't think it has BUT I can't say for sure. I guess I could put pencil marks on either end and see if it lengthens.
5) I was going to attempt to fix the crack by employing three methods everyone mentioned....screwing if it is close enough to the beam to screw it into the beam....caulking the crack....and possibly then taping and mudding. However, I need to sand the area around the crack baby butt smooth before I tape and mud right?
6) With regards to using BIN on the ceiling - and yes I was going to slap that stuff on the entire ceiling - is the BIN itself designed to cover the stains? I know it seals everything down but I have never opened a can of BIN and wasn't sure if it was white. My thought was that after I applied the BIN - not sure how many coats - that I wouldn't see the ghosting anymore before I put on my two coats of flat ceiling paint.
7) Finally, what particular pattern do I roll the paint on with for the ceiling? In the typical W pattern or it is different for ceilings?
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