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Old 04-19-2011, 11:59 PM   #16
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Taping drywall joints - fiber glass mesh or paper?


I use the mesh tape for repairing cracks only. Otherwise slap on the mud, press the paper tape in, scrape of the excess and come back to skim coat and so forth a day later. I have never been able to press the fiber stuff into mud without catching some of it with my knife. It takes so much longer to work with it.

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Old 04-20-2011, 07:29 AM   #17
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Taping drywall joints - fiber glass mesh or paper?


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Originally Posted by firehawkmph View Post
Bob,
Sometimes that outer strand does come free from the roll while playing it out. I just cut the strand off with my razor knife. I haven't had any come free while taping. I use easisand for the initial coat. I mix it so it is not as thick as the redi mix. I use redi mix for the third coat (dust control). When you sand, the dust does drop right to the floor.
Mike Hawkins
Fire, I noticed you use heat for your first two coats, and redi for the third. I went through a phase where I was using three coats of 45 mix. I was getting blisters in the finish at times. No one I spoke to about it could tell me why, even though I told them what my system was. I searched and searched online, finally found a remote website where a guy said no no to my system. Turns out the plaster content, the heat in the 45, was causing a reaction in the paint and creating blisters, even when primed. Changed my system and blisters gone. Did you learn this way as well, or are you just smarter than the average bear?

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I use the mesh tape for repairing cracks only. Otherwise slap on the mud, press the paper tape in, scrape of the excess and come back to skim coat and so forth a day later. I have never been able to press the fiber stuff into mud without catching some of it with my knife. It takes so much longer to work with it.
Sdsester, you say press the mesh into mud. I worked with a guy a few years ago who used to put the mesh in a bed of mud and he had the same problem, no bed for mesh, straight on the surface. The mesh adhesive tape presses onto the wall and gets skimmed over. I use mesh all the time and never have that problem. I start the tape on the crack, press it down with my blade as I roll out, and cut it with the blade at the end by pulling the roll back toward me over the edge of the blade. One smooth continuous move.
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Old 04-20-2011, 08:07 AM   #18
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Taping drywall joints - fiber glass mesh or paper?


I also do 2 hot, then plus 3. Mainly for ease of sanding. I have also found that if you top before the moisture is out of the hot mud the plus3 will bubble much less. Never much of an adhesion prob this way.
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Old 04-20-2011, 08:13 AM   #19
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Taping drywall joints - fiber glass mesh or paper?


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I also do 2 hot, then plus 3. Mainly for ease of sanding. I have also found that if you top before the moisture is out of the hot mud the plus3 will bubble much less. Never much of an adhesion prob this way.
Plus3 ??????

Also, if you read the powder mix instructions it says you can recoat after 45 minutes, even it appears a bit gray (wet). I always over allow for drying prior to recoating, takes more time but minimizes chance of failure.
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Old 04-20-2011, 09:49 AM   #20
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Taping drywall joints - fiber glass mesh or paper?


Quote:
Originally Posted by firehawkmph View Post
I use easisand 45 and 90 for the first two coats and finish up with redi-mix dust control. Mike Hawkins
Mike - when you mention 'easisand 45', is it this product (Easy Sand)? I'd like to try your method on the next project.
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:08 AM   #21
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Taping drywall joints - fiber glass mesh or paper?


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Mike - when you mention 'easisand 45', is it this product (Easy Sand)? I'd like to try your method on the next project.
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Not to step on Mike's question, but yes, that's the idea. However, USG powder mix isn't that easy to sand, but then again, there is no sanding between coats of spackle either. Three thin coats, no sanding til final. Sanding between coats only makes the job harder, minimizes your results, takes more time, and creates more mess. Easisand may be a product Mike has available in his locale, or it may be the USG?
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Old 04-20-2011, 02:38 PM   #22
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Taping drywall joints - fiber glass mesh or paper?


Paper tape is used by the pros because you can load it into bazookas. It may be stronger against initial cracking but when it fails, it is a mess. Most times a bead of caulk will fix small cracks from mesh tape but using easysand or durabond for a first coat is a good insurance policy.
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Old 04-20-2011, 07:48 PM   #23
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Taping drywall joints - fiber glass mesh or paper?


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Mike - when you mention 'easisand 45', is it this product (Easy Sand)? I'd like to try your method on the next project.
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Bob,
That's the stuff. Sorry for the spelling error. I get it at out local home depot.
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Old 04-20-2011, 07:51 PM   #24
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Taping drywall joints - fiber glass mesh or paper?


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Not to step on Mike's question, but yes, that's the idea. However, USG powder mix isn't that easy to sand, but then again, there is no sanding between coats of spackle either. Three thin coats, no sanding til final. Sanding between coats only makes the job harder, minimizes your results, takes more time, and creates more mess. Easisand may be a product Mike has available in his locale, or it may be the USG?
Joe,
I spelled it wrong. It's USG easy sand followed by a number, 5, 20, 45, 90, 120. You are correct on no sanding between coats. I just run a knife down wherever I taped to knock off any ridges. Sand on the final coat. I like the redimix called 'Dust Control.' It sands easy and drops to the floor instead of getting really airborn and floating all over. When you get done sanding, its within about a foot of the wall and that's it.
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Old 04-20-2011, 07:55 PM   #25
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Taping drywall joints - fiber glass mesh or paper?


[quote=jsheridan;633081]Fire, I noticed you use heat for your first two coats, and redi for the third. I went through a phase where I was using three coats of 45 mix. I was getting blisters in the finish at times. No one I spoke to about it could tell me why, even though I told them what my system was. I searched and searched online, finally found a remote website where a guy said no no to my system. Turns out the plaster content, the heat in the 45, was causing a reaction in the paint and creating blisters, even when primed. Changed my system and blisters gone. Did you learn this way as well, or are you just smarter than the average bear?
Joe,
I never came across that problem. I only use the hot stuff for the first two coats. Just dumb luck. Never tried three coats of heat, only because it is tougher to sand than the ready mix stuff. Also, on the final coat, I add just a small amount of water to the ready mix and mix the whole tub with a paddle bit and slow speed mixing drill. It makes it easier to spread and feather and eliminates a lot of drag. If you add too much water, however, you will have more of a tendency to get the tiny air bubbles in the finish.
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:09 PM   #26
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Taping drywall joints - fiber glass mesh or paper?


If you want to eliminate most of the dust sanding, I suggest these vacuum sanding tools.
I use the marshaltown hand sander and the Hyde pole sander. They have changed life as I know it for a guy who does lots of repair work

http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/D...rywall-Sanders

Takes some getting used to (the hose) and make sure you have a collection bag in your vacuum or you will overwhelm the filter.

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