SW Pro Classic

Plastik

I just bought a gallon of Pro Classic Gloss for trim in a bedroom, but I think it may be too much sheen. Can I dilute the sheen to semi-gloss? I doubt Sherwin Williams would allow me to return the paint for semi-gloss. Also, when applying Pro Classic, you just paint and walk away?

tcleve4911

Do not dilute.
Bite the bullet and get the right paint.
If it was an "off the shelf" color, my SW guy will let me return a gallon and he puts it into a quart container. Refunds me a quart (helps some).

What do you mean by "just paint and walk away" ?

Plastik

"Just paint and walk away" meant that you can't work the paint too much - let the paint self-level. The trim I will be painting has a new drywall topcoat. Should I sand first or just paint with primer?

Tgse3

Pro classic can easily be overworked! Definitely want to put it on and don't try to brush back into it. It levels very well but not when dry brushed. It tacks fairly quickly so paint and keep moving and you'll be happy with it.

I didn't understand your second question sorry or I'd answer it

chrisn

Come again

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jsheridan

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tcleve4911

Addressing the quick tack.

The biggest problem with these kinds of paint is getting the paint from the can onto the surface quickly.

By the time you get to the end of a door casing or longer trim, the paint is already tacking up where you started.

I use a 4" roller to get the paint onto the surface quickly and evenly then I back-brush it to give it the hand brushed look.

I use this method for most of my trim & cabinet painting.

Makes it go really quick and I'm always working with a wet edge.
Just another tip from your ol' Uncle Tommy

Plastik

Sorry, people. I shouldn't have use the term "topcoat," but rather new drywall paint that has been sprayed on the ceiling, walls and trim.

Tgse3

Without knowing the specific brand and product of primer you have its tough to give you a great answer. Was this pre primed trim or bare wood prior to being sprayed with your drywall primer?

If it is preprimed then scuff sand it (don't worry about stripping it off entirely just knock it down and use the proclassic)

If it was bare wood I would want to check adhesion before deciding how to proceed from there (keeping in mind most waterborne products don't cure for 21-28 days so don't waste your time checking adhesion prior to that). Many drywall primers will raise wood grain and typically don't have the gloss hold out that trim specific primers do.

chrisn

We need you're definition of the above

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tcleve4911

how did we go from paint and walk away, and fast tack, to Primer?

so what are you asking?
Wanna start over?

DangerMouse

What if you just bought a gallon (or a half gallon? or a quart?) of flat and mixed the two?

DM

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Home repairs

Is this the latex version of pro-classic? SW has 3 or 4 diff versions...

Plastik

Home Repairs - It's interior acrylic latex.

Sorry I haven't replied in a few days, my wife gave birth to my second daughter. I stopped by Sherwin Williams and was able to exchange the gloss for semi-gloss. I don't know which primer was used on the walls and trim, because the house is a foreclosure property. I may call the builder to see if he kept any records. Would using 60 grit be suffice for scuff sanding?

jsheridan

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