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SW Duration or Valspar Ultra Premium help

8K views 23 replies 6 participants last post by  rperezwyd 
#1 ·
Hello all! Just found your forum here and I am going to be all over it. I am a homeowner that does everything myself and would love to contribute to your community.

I need to paint my house and fence before winter. It is fall and getting crappy here in Central NY so I need to hurry up. It is raining all week. I need to buy 10-15 gallons of paint this week to paint everything next week.

House seems to be some kind of fake cedar lap board that is already painted of course and peeling in spots. Fence is rough cut board that the old homeowner only painted on one side so lots of boards are warping bad.

I will be using a big sprayer as much as possible.

I googled some stuff and found a website that said SW Duration is best and Valspar Ultra Premium was second. Don't know how good that website is of course.

I called SW and he told me if I bought 10-15 gallons he will sell it to me for $42 a gallon. Lowes has the Valspar of course and they said $22 a gallon and I have a 10% off coupon.

I also need to buy a new big ladder :thumbsup:

Money is an issue, i am in the automotive industry and still on a 10% paycut. If the Valspar is second best and 1/2 the price I am OK with that.
Both come with "lifetime" warranty.

I plan on being in the house another 5-10 years.

Thanks in advance!
 
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#2 ·
Greeting fellow CNY'r. The only thing Valspar would be a close second to would be coloring your house with a crayon. In my opinion Duration is overkill. SW A-100 is just fine for an exterior. If you want to go down to the $25 a gallon price, go to Purcells and get some Pittsburg Manor Hall paint. I use that on my side jobs and it does just fine.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Not familiar with SW A-100. I will have to investigate the Ithaca or Cortland store.

Yes I am sure it is paint, it is peeling off in a few spots. I have a picture here. I also have to find a way to fix a hole in my siding from a renovation job I did. It is proving to be very hard and I have to do it before I paint. It is fake cedar lap siding. House built in 1972 (ranch house with fenced in back yard). Maybe I should do the house in Duration and the fence in A-100 if it is cheaper
 
#5 ·
Ok. Seems weird they would have painted the fence though and if they did I bet they put the paint on without a primer! MAB will mix their solid color stain to match if that turns out to be what is on the fence.

In any event, I agree that you can go down to a contractor grade in the paint at SW or Benjamin Moore and still be doing better than Valspar if money is an issue. You may not end up with a 100 percent acrylic product but the rest of the chemistry will still be better.
 
#8 · (Edited)
I really would not put more paint on the fence without primer. I would not put paint on a fence at all for that matter. I would shift to a solid color acrylic stain that will not require a primer. I like MAB's (as Sherwin Williams company now) products for this and they will match color for you if you give them a day. Except for aesthetics, it doesn't really matter that the second side was not painted. That is not what is causing your boards to warp. The fence material was probably wet when it was put in place and/or it is just weathering.

http://www.mabpaints.com/products/products.asp?id=266

Not sure if the MAB products have transitioned into SW stores yet? I have both in my area.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Solid latex stains are a little different and certainly thicker than what you used inside. They will absorb where there isn't paint and allow the pigment and binder to seal the surface and can be used over paint on a fence application like yours. Otherwise, you can paint but you really should prime first if you want to get any life at all out of the job.

You might want to start a "Solid Stain Over Paint on Fence" thread and post the picture to get more feedback on this as the discussion is probably getting buried here. You can start it off with my recommendation if you want. Certainly will not hurt my feelings if others disagree with me.
 
#11 ·
Solid latex stains are a little different and certainly thicker than what you used inside. They will absorb where there isn't paint and allow the pigment and binder to seal the surface and can be used over paint on a fence application like yours. Otherwise, you can paint but you really should prime first if you want to get any life at all out of the job.

You might want to start a "Solid Stain Over Paint on Fence" thread and post the picture to get more feedback on this as the discussion is probably getting buried here. You can start it off with my recommendation if you want. Certainly will not hurt my feelings if others disagree with me.[/quote]


Not me:)
 
#12 ·
Well I went down to Sherwin Williams for the first time here in Ithaca. The BEST prices I could get was the following
Duration - 49.49
Resilience - 36.74
Superpaint - 35.99
A-100 - 28.79
Solidstain - 31.49

I called up Cortland (next nearest store) and best price I could get was 42 a gallon for duration.

Ithaca would NOT touch 42 a gallon for duration and let me walk out of the store.

I am guessing I need 10 gallons of my color and 1 can of white for the little trim I got. So I am looking at 500 bucks. To paint the house and fence. He said if I use duration, I do not need primer. They also told me Duration covers less sq. feet. Resilience covers like 100 sq ft more per can??

Man that is hard to justify. I could use something else for 22 dollars a gallon and save 250 bucks or more because it is cheaper and covers more.
 
#13 ·
Man that is hard to justify. I could use something else for 22 dollars a gallon and save 250 bucks or more because it is cheaper and covers more.
As was suggested in these posts, use something other than Duration in the Sherwin Williams line if budget is the issue. You may not get the same life out of it but it will last you quite awhile. Just don't be tempted by the price into trying something like Valspar or you will be sorry. I most certainly would not put $42/gallon paint on a fence!
 
#15 ·
Picked up 10 gallons of steel grey tonight and 1 gallon of white. I will need to get another gallon or two of white. I did not know my eves were all white.

I bought all duration. I have to start scraping some loose paint this week, I don't know how I am going to scrape a textured surface house. I don't want to use a powerwasher and get it all wet because I want to start painting this week.

How long do I have to paint the house before night time or rain? We seem to get 2 days of sun then 1 day of pure rain.

Hope you guys are right, this duration put a huge dent in my wallet.
 
#17 ·
^ Someone in this thread said duration was king, someone else said superpaint, someone else said A-100. I searched and read this forum for hours and it seems that duration is the best.

The guy at sherman williams told me a-100 does not come with a lifetime warranty and requires primer. I did not want to do the primer bit as we are in october and 50 degrees as a high for the day. I need to get this done this week or next and I am doing it all 100% alone. Duration had a lifetime warranty, they gave it to me for $42 a gallon. I paid a little bit more yes.. but I do not want to repaint this house or fence.
 
#18 ·
you have a point and might have saved a couple of dollars but talking to the pros primering then painting even with a less expensive paint might have given you a better job overall. I agree I'm in ct and have to get my windows painted and am waiting on some suggestions but the first question the pro asked me was how long am I staying in the house. If your there for the rest of your life lifetime warrenty is good if your the for 15-20yrs all you need is for the job to last you that long.

plus any paint need to be done over after time so with that said if you spend have and have to paint twice over said yrs. the job cost only alittle more but last alot longer.

any project should be looked at this way

good luck:yes:
 
#19 ·
I plan on being here 5-10 years but who knows.

I asked everyone in my family that has painted their house and they all said the longest paint has lasted them is 8 years then it peeled. Some of my family said it lasted them less than 5 years.

Man I hope this stuff is as good as everyone says and when I go to sell, I don't have to repaint it. I hate painting. I will gladly pay double for a paint that lasts twice as long to save myself the aggravation and labor. In the end.. I spent about 200 bucks more than if I would have got A-100..
 
#20 ·
The only way to really get any longer than 5-8 years out of a pint job is to start with bare wood, but getting the whole house down to bare wood is a LOT more work than just painting it every 5 years. The problem is the layers underneath. You can put the best paint in the world on your house, but when the layers underneath decide to let go of the wood, you are going to have peeling. Read your warranty as well. I am sure somewhere in there is something that will protect them from having to give out replacement paint when the bottom layer is peeling.
 
#21 ·
The only way to really get any longer than 5-8 years out of a pint job is to start with bare wood, but getting the whole house down to bare wood is a LOT more work than just painting it every 5 years. The problem is the layers underneath. You can put the best paint in the world on your house, but when the layers underneath decide to let go of the wood, you are going to have peeling. Read your warranty as well. I am sure somewhere in there is something that will protect them from having to give out replacement paint when the bottom layer is peeling.[/quote]


You got that right. There is not ANY paint that will last a lifetime, come on think about it, if that we true would any of us painters be here at all? I think not.As Matthew said the only way to get a long lasting( maybe 10 years at most) is to take it back to bare wood, apply slow dry oil primer and 2 100% acrylic top coats. Duration is OK but over hyped IMO and a lifetime warranty as you are thinking does not exist:no:
READ THE FINE PRINT
 
#22 · (Edited)
I read diychatroom, paintalk, contractortalk.. I read them all.

Over and over again I see professional painters saying duration is the best thing out there.. if you can get the home owner to spring for it, buy it.

I read for 5+ hrs on these forums.. Then everyone says SW kills valspar.. I listened and went to SW. So I spent the little extra money and got duration. Then I have people telling me I wasted my money.

I did what people said and got SW.. then I did what the rest of the forums said and made my SW choice duration.

Confusing BS IMO.. who cares. It is sitting in my garage now. And even if I "wasted my money". I have wasted a hell of alot more by buying cheap stuff and getting bit.

If anyone has words to help me get it on the house and fence I would appreciate it. My house has a texture (fake cedar lap board) and getting the paint out of the striations is impossible. I am just taking the loose stuff off. A scraper sucks because it is for flat surfaces. Should I use a powerwasher then wait a couple days and paint? Looks like the next week it will be 50 during the day and 35 at night with chances of rain every other day.
 
#23 ·
Use what you got you already bought it, dont stress over it. I would probably use the powerwasher very carefully give some drying time, we're getting a couple of nice days and the worst you can do is panic or rush. do one side at a time and if it doesnt get finished there's always next spring.

I had a shed to paint before winter and rushed to get it done but all I got was primer on it. next spring I reprimered and painted with no problem
 
#24 ·
I went back to the posts to see what was said about duration and what I got was that if you can get the other person to pay for it they would use it but if I would have to pay for it i would use a-100 or the next one up.

I have used SW AND BM and Pitsburg ppg great paint and I have been cheap and done lowes and cheapo there is a big difference stay with the SW
 
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