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Old 03-12-2012, 06:45 PM   #46
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SW Brilliance Ceiling Paint - Seeing Roller marks


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Originally Posted by jsheridan View Post
Jawa, I'm sorry to hear of your misfortune, but glad to hear that something I said was helpful. If 1/3 of your ceiling came out nice, then the other 2/3's should have as well. Unless. From all that you've written, I'm suspecting that you're crushing the roller nap, and the 2/3's is the result of a worthless nap. Did you read that part in my articles, how to break a roller cover in?

In the first ten minutes or so of use, the cover shouldn't be pushed past a few sqaure feet, then dipped again, then a few sqaure feet. During this time the paint is working toward the core of the cover, filling the reservoir. ?
I think I'm crushing the roller nap, but I'm unsure as to how one goes about keeping a sleeve fluffy deep into a single run. How do extract the paint towards the end. When I say crush, btw, I mean matting it down, not trying to get a verticle press Workout, lol! By the time I'm finished with a 3x6 area (two passes by 6ft) the Purdy Dove sleeves are smooth (all of them). The knit Wooster seems to keep it's nappy texture during these single runs!? I was seriously contemplating ditching what I consider the best feeling sleeve (woven DOVE) and going with the lesser Wooster. Like I said before, the 1/2" Wooster worked well during the HB primer application. I was tempted to just leave it alone, it was beautiful, lol!

Also, the part of the ceiling that looks great, I used a 3/8" Purdy Dove. I also roughed it up mid-way, because I began to notice the ultra smooth effect it was creating, besides grabbing less paint. It worked for a while... GRRRR!

Lastly, I've conditioned all my rollers since day one. Wetting them, lightly washing any excess lint of them, spinning them and then using them immediately. It's a 10min process.

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Old 03-13-2012, 05:04 AM   #47
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SW Brilliance Ceiling Paint - Seeing Roller marks


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Originally Posted by jawadesign View Post
I think I'm crushing the roller nap, but I'm unsure as to how one goes about keeping a sleeve fluffy deep into a single run. How do extract the paint towards the end. When I say crush, btw, I mean matting it down, not trying to get a verticle press Workout, lol! By the time I'm finished with a 3x6 area (two passes by 6ft) the Purdy Dove sleeves are smooth (all of them). The knit Wooster seems to keep it's nappy texture during these single runs!? I was seriously contemplating ditching what I consider the best feeling sleeve (woven DOVE) and going with the lesser Wooster. Like I said before, the 1/2" Wooster worked well during the HB primer application. I was tempted to just leave it alone, it was beautiful, lol!

Also, the part of the ceiling that looks great, I used a 3/8" Purdy Dove. I also roughed it up mid-way, because I began to notice the ultra smooth effect it was creating, besides grabbing less paint. It worked for a while... GRRRR!

Lastly, I've conditioned all my rollers since day one. Wetting them, lightly washing any excess lint of them, spinning them and then using them immediately. It's a 10min process.

cut this in half and you will be fine, keep paint on the cover
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Old 03-13-2012, 05:06 AM   #48
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SW Brilliance Ceiling Paint - Seeing Roller marks


Where are you anyway? I would be tempted to come over there and see what is going on.
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Old 03-13-2012, 05:13 AM   #49
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SW Brilliance Ceiling Paint - Seeing Roller marks


Jawa, you have that right, matting the cover. I've never liked the Purdy covers. The woosters are best. You can crush the roller in three ways, pushing it too far too soon, as I explained, running it too dry and spreading the paint too far, and pressing it too hard against the ceiling.
I already covered breaking the roller in.
When rolling an eight foot wall, you should get about 1 1/2 to 2 full roller widths out of a dip, that's about 12-16 square foot per dip, that's after break in. Apply that to the ceiling. Never go beyond 16 and stay closer to 12-14 if you struggle with a wet edge. On a 12 foot wide ceiling, I'll take two roller widths on half the ceiling width, that's 9 square feet. You have to get a feel for how it's rolling to determine how far you can go. All paints will spread differently and coverage will also be influenced by what you're coating over. Also, listen. A dry roller makes a very different sound than a properly loaded one. You hear the suction, like pulling velcro, sort of. You always want to hear suction. Try to pick up a uniform amount each dip and spread it over a uniform square area in a uniform manner. This isn't HGTV, where they roll hodgepodge every which way.
Your roller should also just glide across the surface, using just enough pressure to keep it on the surface, never press.
As to paints, I prefer to use the basic chalk based, non vinyl finishes. These will be your deader flats. Vinyls will have a slight angular sheen, which can cause you headaches on ceilings and long or high walls. Chalk based are more idiot proof, lol. Ceilings don't need high performance products, as they just sit there and look pretty. With SW, I would be buying a flat from the Promar line, 200 or 400. With BM, I use Super Spec. Occasionally, I will use BM waterborne ceiling finish, which they claim is dead flat and I haven't seen to be otherwise yet. Even BM's Muresco ceiling white has a slight angular sheen, which in my mind, based on years of experience, is a new development with that product and it's gone off my go to list. Brilliance is a flat ceiling paint, but it's a vinyl acrylic. Bottom line with ceilings, all I care about is that it reflect as close to zero light I as can get, and I care less about quality and price.
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Old 03-13-2012, 01:04 PM   #50
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SW Brilliance Ceiling Paint - Seeing Roller marks


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cut this in half and you will be fine, keep paint on the cover
chrisn... i would take you up on the offer if you were closer to Chicago


and i should be able to get two passes or (3x6) area out of a well loaded 18" roller. i think my problem may be stretching and over working it beyond that area. i'll do a 3x6 area (wet) then go beyond and overlap into dry areas. it worked on the better part of my ceiling, but i was not consistent enough throughout the job. i need to remain confident, roll my areas wet and hope it all comes out. i was moving right along and quickly in the better part of my ceiling.

also, the problem area of the ceiling has a large window close to the ceiling. cascading light across the entire width of the room, you see EVERYTHING!!
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Old 03-22-2012, 12:33 PM   #51
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SW Brilliance Ceiling Paint - Seeing Roller marks


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Originally Posted by jsheridan View Post
All paints will spread differently and coverage will also be influenced by what you're coating over. Also, listen. A dry roller makes a very different sound than a properly loaded one. You hear the suction, like pulling velcro, sort of. You always want to hear suction. Try to pick up a uniform amount each dip and spread it over a uniform square area in a uniform manner. This isn't HGTV, where they roll hodgepodge every which way.
Your roller should also just glide across the surface, using just enough pressure to keep it on the surface, never press.

it worked!!

so, with confidence, i told myself i will take ownership of this room.

1. shut windows, only leave them cracked. reducing drying time.
2. turn off radio, lol! i can hear the paint being applied.
3. roll perpendicular to the windows letting in the most light.
4. and i can't emphasis this enough, STAY CONSISTENT with every ACTION (creates uniform texture!)

this time around, i painted the room long, 3x25 in 5 sections. then rolled the next run behind the first in the same manner. it's the way room and windows are oriented... i took a gamble IMHO. i wasn't sure rolling into the first section was going to work starting my second run...!?

i reprimed over the mud using the techniques above and it came out great.
i then applied SW (CHB) paint, flat-white, a shade darker than Brilliance. this actually helped some, allowing for a variation between the whites. overall it came out nice and i can live with it. i say this because with all the layers, different textures, different paints and different directions rolled, i was really doubtful it would ever come out nice at all. short of going with a popcorn ceiling...

i hate to say this, but i can now see why BEHR, GLIDDEN and VALSPAR are so loved by DIY'ers. the paint is very, and i mean very forgiving. what you PROS call saggy and runny or what i call the melted look is what helps the DIY'er. Sherwin Williams paint creates a uniform stipple when applied perfectly, but if you slip or sing along with the radio, lol, you will bring out the mistakes! i don't recommend SW for the DIY'er, yep... leave that stuff to the PROS and you will love your rooms!


Last edited by jawadesign; 03-22-2012 at 12:40 PM.
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