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-   -   Staining problems.. (http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/staining-problems-2309/)

Cricketsz28 04-18-2006 04:03 AM

Staining problems..
 
I bought an unfinished cabinet from Lowes & I am trying to stain it, I am using Minwax Polyshades(satin & polyurethane)1 Step BomBay Mahogany Satin.
I didn't treat it with anything before applying the stain.
I think its OAK.
Well, my husband tried to stain one of the doors on it & it has some like thick spots on it that are just way to dark, I stained the other door & it looks so much better.
I noticed that while he was staining the one door it started to like get these tiny bubbles in it. Whats that???
I was told to lightly sand over the doors with "Steel Wool" so I did & it didn't lighten up the door he had done. It looks kinda gummy in certain spots. So, then I tried using some sandpaper(400superfine) & it isn't working.
I used a paint brush to apply the stain also.
Any advice ??? Thanks

lxdollarsxl 04-19-2006 11:15 PM

Stains consist of three components: pigments, dyes and a carrier. The carrier determines whether the stain is oil- or water-based.
Staining permanently changes the wood's appearance, so always test a stain before applying it. One option is to test stain on an area of the piece that won't show--such as the bottom or back. Another is to use a piece of scrap wood for a tester. Because each stain produces a distinctive look on different types of wood, it's crucial to use a scrap from the same wood as the furniture is made.
Stir or shake stain before beginning, as heavier pigments tend to settle in the can.

If the test-piece looks blotchy when you apply stain, you might need to apply a wood conditioner first. If so, apply a liberal amount of the appropriate type of wood conditioner (water- or oil-based, depending on your stain) about 15 minutes before staining.

Apply the stain, making even strokes with a brush, rag or pad. After a few minutes, wipe off excess stain with a cloth. Leaving the stain on longer usually yields a darker color.
Once the entire piece is stained, let it dry overnight. Apply more stain if you wish to darken the wood further. As it dries, the stained finish may take on a dull look. A fresh appearance will return when finish is applied later. :)

Also i think you may find its not oak but Birch thats seems to be the only unfinished ones they sell.

The bubbles most likely is applying too much at one go.

Cricketsz28 04-20-2006 02:58 PM

I had already applied the stain when I posted this.. my husband did 1 door & it doesn't look good, I want to take it off, because it looks real thick in 1 spot. What can I do?

lxdollarsxl 04-20-2006 06:43 PM

I think you may have to strip all off and start again.

The best way to strip the cabinets is to use a solvent based paint remover. It will work the fastest and most completely. Sanding is time consuming, messy and does not do a complete job.

If after stripping the finish you have any residual color in the wood, use a chlorine bleach to remove it. Clorox will work. :)

Teetorbilt 04-20-2006 07:05 PM

Like Ix said.

Bleaching will raise the grain, so be prepared to sand some more.

Try applying the stain with a damp (with stain) cheesecloth. Practice on a scrap first before tackling the 'project'. Wear gloves and rub it in. A little practice and you'll get the hang of it.

slickshift 04-22-2006 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cricketsz28
I was told to lightly sand over the doors with "Steel Wool" so I did & it didn't lighten up the door he had done. It looks kinda gummy in certain spots. So, then I tried using some sandpaper(400superfine) & it isn't working.

Those won't work if you want to re-do the door
It will have to be stripped


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