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Old 09-25-2010, 11:57 PM   #16
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


thanks very much for very helpful information...i would like a stained look but it seems the results may not turn out to be good..legal issues concerning the possibility of lead concern me....i will have to check with him about these issues before i make my decision

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Old 10-01-2010, 12:46 AM   #17
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


Someone mentioned this tool....http://www.paintshaver.com/paintshaver.html

it seems impressive. I thought I will share this with you guys since you have been very helpful.
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:14 PM   #18
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


Hi,

Followed this thread and enjoyed the dialog. Great information!

I live in Wisconsin and have only gotten 4 years from my last two cedar siding paint jobs by two different contractors. The last time, the paint was chipping and peeling on the west side which gets more sun and wind/snow. The paint was oil based put on top of an older oil base of similar color.

With better prep and using a primer would I get more "life"?

Thanks.
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:54 PM   #19
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


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Originally Posted by lylegray View Post
Hi,

Followed this thread and enjoyed the dialog. Great information!

I live in Wisconsin and have only gotten 4 years from my last two cedar siding paint jobs by two different contractors. The last time, the paint was chipping and peeling on the west side which gets more sun and wind/snow. The paint was oil based put on top of an older oil base of similar color.

With better prep and using a primer would I get more "life"?

Thanks.
the reason your oil paint is chipping is because oil paint doesn't expand and contrast like a 100% acrylic does. I would use a good oil primer, then caulk where necessary with big stretch caulking, then apply two coats of a 100% acrylic low sheen, high quality paint like P&L Accolade or Ben Moore Aura. You'll get 6-8 years on the worst sides of your house, and because of the lifetime warranty, when it does fail again, you will have the product replaced for free.
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Old 10-05-2010, 09:30 AM   #20
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


Hammer,

Does the primer need to be applied to the entire house, where the old oil based paint is on the cedar, or only to bare areas?

Based on this thread, I am assuming a thorough cleaning/scrapping needs to be completed beforehand.....

I'll look to other threads for advise on proper 2nd story and roof "footing" to ensure I don't end up in the hospital....

Appreciate you all taking time with your expertise.
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Old 10-05-2010, 10:13 PM   #21
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


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Hammer,

Does the primer need to be applied to the entire house, where the old oil based paint is on the cedar, or only to bare areas?

Based on this thread, I am assuming a thorough cleaning/scrapping needs to be completed beforehand.....

I'll look to other threads for advise on proper 2nd story and roof "footing" to ensure I don't end up in the hospital....

Appreciate you all taking time with your expertise.
Prime all raw wood AND areas that have oil paint. You want to seal them back and create a good bonding surface for the paint to stick to. BUT, try to get off as much of that old oil paint as possible! Your new paint will only be as strong as the old paint that's left after prepping! Also, always have scaffolding for a two story house. And the proper safety equipment.
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Old 10-05-2010, 11:34 PM   #22
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


I differ on hammer on oil based paint opinions. Oil doesn't expand and contract as much as latex, but neither does the wood on the side of your house. If the wood expanded on your house like vinyl does then it would pop the nails and split all over the place. I suspect improper prep was your problem. If the old paint was claulky then it will surely peel without removing the majority of the chaulk first.
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Old 10-07-2010, 01:27 AM   #23
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I differ on hammer on oil based paint opinions. Oil doesn't expand and contract as much as latex, but neither does the wood on the side of your house. If the wood expanded on your house like vinyl does then it would pop the nails and split all over the place. I suspect improper prep was your problem. If the old paint was claulky then it will surely peel without removing the majority of the chaulk first.
It's a proven fact to NOT USE Marine or Oil Enamel on an exterior of a house. EVERY time I have seen the oil fail, it's due to cracks on the seams of the trim where it meets the siding. oil enamel CANNOT expand and contrast to extreme weather changes i.e. 30 degrees in the morning to 70 during the day. you know i speak truth.
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Old 10-20-2010, 11:55 PM   #24
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


Ok....we went ahead....the contractor decided to use Paintshaver pro...it seems like a great product. dont see any dust at all...some wood chips fall off .

I noticed some of the wood had dark discoloration...is that mildew? If i go with stain, how should we will those nail holes and the spaces between boards.

thanks
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Old 10-21-2010, 12:08 AM   #25
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


one other question--- do we need to use a primer if we go with stain. i was look at cabot house website...they mention using primer before staining
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Old 10-30-2010, 09:38 PM   #26
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


wanted to give u guys an update.... project is moving along...slower than i had anticipated . paint shaver pro is a game changer......wood looks beautiful.....some areas are discolored but plan to clean those areas with TSP.

I have decided to go with Sikkens SRD transparent.

Still have question about nail holes and gaps between shingles....

Also , night temps are dropping here in New England..... do the night temps have to be above 50F for the stain to stick?
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Old 10-30-2010, 11:20 PM   #27
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


If you go with stain, be sure to add a good mold and mildew inhibitor to the stain to help keep the stain looking nicer longer.
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Old 10-30-2010, 11:26 PM   #28
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


You may be able to get a good caulk for wood that will match your stain to fill the nail holes and gaps. Ask the sikkens rep, cause they sell to log home owners and will know about matching caulks to stain.
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Old 10-31-2010, 12:02 AM   #29
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Sikkens doesnt recommend mixing anything with their products!

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If you go with stain, be sure to add a good mold and mildew inhibitor to the stain to help keep the stain looking nicer longer.

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