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Old 09-19-2010, 09:39 PM   #1
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


I am considering either paint or stain this house-------will prefer staining though I dont know how many times it has been painted. it is a 20s house in New england. the condition of the paint is terrible ....it is peeling off from two sides mostly due to severe weather conditions.

painter says it will come out nice...he is planning to sand it and then stain. do you guys think this is a good idea. would it really come out good ?

thanks

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Old 09-20-2010, 12:17 AM   #2
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


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I am considering either paint or stain this house-------will prefer staining though I dont know how many times it has been painted. it is a 20s house in New england. the condition of the paint is terrible ....it is peeling off from two sides mostly due to severe weather conditions.

painter says it will come out nice...he is planning to sand it and then stain. do you guys think this is a good idea. would it really come out good ?

thanks
THE ONLY WAY YOU CAN STAIN OVER PAINT is if you sand ALL of the paint off of the house!!!!! Stain must be able to penetrate into the wood. Paint is a "skin" on top of the wood. If you do not sand ALL OF THE PAINT OFF, the stain will sit on top of the paint. It will not penetrate and you are wasting your money.

If a lot of the paint is allready gone, and it wouldn't cost that much to remove the rest, have all the paint removed and use a stain. There are many types, but ALWAYS use an oil stain. Oil stains penetrate into the wood much better than water stains, hence longer lasting protection. Then you have a choice of what type of oil stain: Transparent, Semi Transparent, Semi Solid, or Solid. Remember, the more opaque the stain, the longer it will last, but the less wood grain you see.

Stain doesn't last as long as paints, but stains are easier to maintain. Stains fade away, you just clean the surface, light sand, and restain. With paint you must scrape the loose paint off, sand, prime, then two coats finish when it fails.

So many painters do not truly understand the difference between stains and paints. I have been selling paints and stains for over 14 years, and I have learned a lot from my father, who is an exellent painter who has over 40 years experience. Trust me on this. If you can't get all the paint off, it's okay. Just make sure your painter does a good prep job, applies one coat primer, caulk where needed, then make sure two coats of a high quality 100 % acrylic low sheen finish is applied. And make sure he back rolls or back brushes (depending on surface) if he is spraying the coats.

If he uses a stain, it's very important he back brushes, and if a second coat is needed, it is applied wet on wet. that is, less than one hour after first coat.

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Old 09-20-2010, 07:31 AM   #3
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


thanks ...that was very informative.

I have a few questions...

- u mentioned semi-transparent and semi-solid stains...what is the difference.
-should he strip paint before he sands it
-what is good quality oil stain

thanks
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Old 09-20-2010, 06:17 PM   #4
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


I agree. Solid stains won't show the wood grain where a semi-transparent will. Sikkens is about the best you can get in oil stains. If your painter is not going to strip the house down to bare wood then he need to prime any bare wood with oil primer and then he can use Latex.

Last edited by Matthewt1970; 09-20-2010 at 06:21 PM.
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Old 09-20-2010, 09:33 PM   #5
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


he says house would need about 40 galllons of stain.....house is about 1500 sq ft ....does that sound right?

also, does one have to worry about low ext temperature when staining ?
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Old 09-21-2010, 06:00 AM   #6
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


Ya, if he was gonna do 9 coats. I think it's time for a new painting contractor.
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Old 09-21-2010, 11:11 AM   #7
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


he is a good guy...he did a great job for the interior of the house...probably doesnt do lot of staining work
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Old 09-22-2010, 12:14 AM   #8
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


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he says house would need about 40 galllons of stain.....house is about 1500 sq ft ....does that sound right?

also, does one have to worry about low ext temperature when staining ?
NOOOO!! At the most, 10 gallons of stain.
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Old 09-22-2010, 12:18 AM   #9
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


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thanks ...that was very informative.

I have a few questions...

- u mentioned semi-transparent and semi-solid stains...what is the difference.
-should he strip paint before he sands it
-what is good quality oil stain

thanks
Semi solid has a bit more of an "opaque" look than semi trans

using a disc grinder or sander is much easier and less messier, imo, than using a chemical stripper. BUT, if he does use a stripper, he does that first, then let it dry for a day, then he can sand rest off

I always recommend Cabot oil stains, bu there is one company that is just as good, Sikkens. Only problem is that they cost more. So Cabot is your better bang for the buck.
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Old 09-22-2010, 09:33 AM   #10
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


he said he will "burn" it...as there could be lead in the paint...
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Semi solid has a bit more of an "opaque" look than semi trans

using a disc grinder or sander is much easier and less messier, imo, than using a chemical stripper. BUT, if he does use a stripper, he does that first, then let it dry for a day, then he can sand rest off

.
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Old 09-22-2010, 10:42 AM   #11
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


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he said he will "burn" it...as there could be lead in the paint...
By burn it I assume he will use a heat gun and not a torch (at least I hope so).
My advice is to have the wood lightly sanded, apply a quality primer anywhere there is raw wood, and then apply paint. This will assure you of a satisfactory result. The prep work for a quality stain job will be extensive. I am not sure I would stay with the painter you want to hire despite your confidence in his ability.
Keep in mind that sanding leaded paint is a hazardous activity that requires special care. It may even require a permit and the hiring of licensed professionals. I would have the paint tested for lead so you know what you are dealing with whether you want to stain or repaint.

Last edited by retired guy 60; 09-22-2010 at 01:37 PM.
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Old 09-22-2010, 07:43 PM   #12
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


Any contractor disturbing more than 20sq feet of an exterior surface has to be an EPA Lead Certified Firm, with a Certified Renovator and follow lead safety guidelines, through sanding, scraping, grinding, and power washing you are disturbing the surface. The house was built in the 20s, so the chances that it contains lead are high, the only way it would not contain lead is if it was 100% lead abated, which is rare and in any case when you bought the home you would rec. Paper work saying so. Even though there are probably a few layers of latex paint over the lead paint the house still more than likely contains lead. Burning paint containing lead is prohibited and using a heat gun to strip the paint is limited to the size of the heat gun he can use. The best bet would be to use a chemical stripper. Peel Away is a pretty good stripper. You could use a paint shaver too, which will do a good job, but then you still have to follow up with a sanding, but rather than go through all of that trouble and expense I would just repaint the exterior.
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Old 09-22-2010, 08:02 PM   #13
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


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... but rather than go through all of that trouble and expense I would just repaint the exterior.
I agree. The payoff for stripping the siding is not great enough to warrant the expense. A new coat of paint is the way to go. However, there may still be the need for some prep work and that should not be overlooked.
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Old 09-23-2010, 08:27 AM   #14
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


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Any contractor disturbing more than 20sq feet of an exterior surface has to be an EPA Lead Certified Firm, with a Certified Renovator and follow lead safety guidelines, through sanding, scraping, grinding, and power washing you are disturbing the surface. The house was built in the 20s, so the chances that it contains lead are high, the only way it would not contain lead is if it was 100% lead abated, which is rare and in any case when you bought the home you would rec. Paper work saying so. Even though there are probably a few layers of latex paint over the lead paint the house still more than likely contains lead. Burning paint containing lead is prohibited and using a heat gun to strip the paint is limited to the size of the heat gun he can use. The best bet would be to use a chemical stripper. Peel Away is a pretty good stripper. You could use a paint shaver too, which will do a good job, but then you still have to follow up with a sanding, but rather than go through all of that trouble and expense I would just repaint the exterior.

I Agree with the advise you have given!!!

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Old 09-23-2010, 08:39 AM   #15
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Staining previously painted cedar siding


If you really want the stained look, have your painter strip (NOT BURN, ITS ILLEGAL) one of the more intricate sections on your home and stain it before you turn him loose on the whole house. I have serious doubts that both your painter or you will want to stain after that exercise.
My advice is too, clean, scrape, sand and spot prime all failing paint/bare wood, caulk any cracks. Then apply 2 coats of quality 100% Acrylic exterior house paint. Here in Portland Oregon we mostly spray and when the substrate requires it we either back brush or back roll to ensure the paint has been worked in, which will yield a even finish that should last for 7-10 years.

Hope this helps

Pearl Painters Portland Oregon
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Originally Posted by christy123 View Post
thanks ...that was very informative.

I have a few questions...

- u mentioned semi-transparent and semi-solid stains...what is the difference.
-should he strip paint before he sands it
-what is good quality oil stain

thanks

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