Staining Pine - Painting - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum


Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Painting

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-27-2010, 10:02 AM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Indiana, PA
Posts: 1,312
Rewards Points: 522
Default

Staining pine


I have been testing colors out on scrap pieces of pine wood I picked up at lowes, and think I FINALLY found a color I like.... but I haven't polyed it yet and need some advise...


I bought a can of minwax cherry stain (the liquid type) put on the first coat with a brush relatively thick so it could take in as much as it could, I am gong for a deep orange brown so I let it sit for 15 minutes, wiped it off lightly... ok still not dark enough... let it sit overnight and put on the second coat this morning same way, let it sit 15 minutes wiped off lightly much better color and more of what I am looking for...

first question, I did the prestain before the first coat but after the sanding.. which it soaked up like someone who is really thirsty, put it on thick and every drop of it soaked up, nothing to wipe off... waited 15 minutes before staining like it said... but do I only do this for the 1st stain coat, not for every coat?

now when do I poly? I've heard everything from 6 hrs later to way an entire day...

also is it really worth using the presanding sealer over the stain instead of a first coat of poly?

when I do poly it I am using satin poly, after the first coat, I go over it with 000/0000 steel wool... how much do I really want to hit this? when is it sanded enough?

Advertisement

BlueBSH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2010, 10:28 AM   #2
Painting Company, NY
 
housepaintingny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: NY
Posts: 1,001
Rewards Points: 540
Blog Entries: 14
Default

Staining pine


You really don't need sanding sealer for your project. First you sand the pine, then clean it with a tack cloth followed by a wood cleaner such as nuwood, then apply a pre stain wood conditioner, because pine is a soft wood and it will not take stain evenly unless you apply the pre wood conditioner. Then apply a coat of stain sanding in between coats with 000 steel wool and using a tack cloth after every sanding. Sand with the steel wool before applying your poly also.

Advertisement

housepaintingny is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2010, 11:33 AM   #3
Doer of Many Things
 
poppameth's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Staunton, VA
Posts: 1,181
Rewards Points: 530
Default

Staining pine


Can you find Old Masters stains where you are? If so try their Wiping stain. It's got a heavier body than the regular Minwax product and tends to give a deeper color.
poppameth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2010, 12:08 PM   #4
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Indiana, PA
Posts: 1,312
Rewards Points: 522
Default

Staining pine


Quote:
Originally Posted by poppameth View Post
Can you find Old Masters stains where you are? If so try their Wiping stain. It's got a heavier body than the regular Minwax product and tends to give a deeper color.
All I can get here is Cabot (valspar), Minwax, and Shirwin Williams Wood Classics
BlueBSH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2010, 08:11 AM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Indiana, PA
Posts: 1,312
Rewards Points: 522
Default

Staining pine


Well started on my final "practice" piece... started off by sanding with 180 to get rough spots out, then 220. Wiped it down so it was nice and clean. after it was cleaned I put on a heavy coat of minwax pre-stain (oil based one in the red can)... that soaked right up with nothing left to wipe up, but gave it a wipe down after 15 minutes anyway...

put on a pare of vinyal goves so they dont deteriorate while staining, I always found laytex gloves to start to rip when covered with stain... and used some wiping towels I bought (t-shirt like towels in their consistancy) soaked up some stain and rubbed it in.

first coat didn't seem to absorb to darkly, so let it dry for 4 hours, steel wooled it with 0000 wool until it was nice and smooth again, and put on another coat with the wiping cloths. This time it looks much deeper and color after its 15 minute soak. Gave it a very light wipe down just to get the extra off and blend it together.

today is my attempt at putting poly onto this test cove piece, since it bowes inward, I am scared about it running and making bumbs.... any advice on how to combat this so it doesnt run towards the lowest part of the curve?

what is a good poly? I have minwax and cabot already for testing... cabot seems really thick, almost like a syrup type consistancy... the minwax seems a lot more watery... (they are both oil based)... can you wipe on the poly with a rag or should I stick to a brush for this?
BlueBSH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2010, 02:42 PM   #6
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Indiana, PA
Posts: 1,312
Rewards Points: 522
Default

Staining pine


have a quick question

after you get the final coat of poly on, do you steel wool it again? I am finding after after I do the first two coats of poly (thin coats) and steel wool them, the final coat still has a couple rough spots... nothing major, just doesnt feel as silky smooth as the rest

Advertisement

BlueBSH is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Why can't I find a good thatch rake or pine needle rake? carl1864 Landscaping & Lawn Care 5 06-05-2011 02:01 PM
Staining distressed heartwood pine floor tom_matthews Painting 3 10-17-2010 01:53 AM
How do I remove dark staining on my knotty pine? Ajidahk General DIY Discussions 12 03-25-2010 02:14 PM
Staining pine T&G handiandi Painting 7 04-27-2008 10:43 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts