Stain washes right off railing

Brushjockey

Hey ric ( sorry- gonna hijack this bit..)-
i have a job next week that I am darkening existing handrails and knewls to match a new dark floor.
Oak with I believe conventional poly on them.
Couple of Q's -
You say clean with den. alcohol- I thought spirits did a better job of cutting waxes and polishes... comments?
My plan was also to clean after that with Krud Kutter ( oh- and scuff sand) - then tone WB Zar ultra Max with Transtints and build up the color- finishing with a clear of Ultra max.
Was hoping that a transition coat of Uni Shellac was not needed for adhesion... Comments?

Just for the OP- this could also be an approach to recolor your rail..

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ric knows paint

Hey Brush...

Have I ever mentioned how much I don't like polyurethane? Doesn't matter, I guess, but I don't. I think it's 6 of one, 1/2 dozen of another contrasting min spirits and den alcohol - I'm pretty certain alcohol works better on waxes, and spirits probably works better on oils - but I know you do a thorough job of prep and whatever the solvent won't remove completely, I'd think the Krud Kutter would...(If there's a concern about solvents, you could always use acetone - or clean lacquer thinner - which usually contains alcohol, acetone & toluene).

After a solvent wash, Krud Kutter wash and light sanding, I'd hope that the WB Zar would adhere to the existing poly without the use of a shellac coat...and speaking of shellac, see below;

WB Zar UltraMax is a Water-borne alkyd (modified poly) - so all rules regarding solvent poly applies. (1) Polys and Shellacs sometimes don't play well together, if you're considering a shellac tie-coat, use Zinsser's de-waxed version SealCoat, (2) check UGL's TDS about the max number of poly coats in an app (usually 3), and (3) watch the re-coat times (re-coat after X hours, but before Y hours) especially since you'll be slightly altering the make up with transtints. How 'bout posting some before and after pics, this topic has come up before and it'd be kinda neat to reference a success story.

and you're right, if the lacquer toner aerosol doesn't work for Underscore, your system might be the best way for him to go...

jsheridan

Hey Ric, good job. I respect your knowledge and appreciate your willingness to share it. Thanks.

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Brushjockey

Rodger about shellac- by Uni - i did mean the Sealcoat - unwaxed- but I think it's name of Universal Sanding sealer is confusing..
Whats the beef about poly? Spill dem beans bro
The Zar is a wonderful product IMO- best of class for handling in a wb.
And it is also floor rated- so is probably tough stuff.

Thanks!

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Bruntson

I agree with RicKnowsPaint. Sometimes lacquer stain is mixed with Hi build clear lacquer to the desired tint, then srayed on the trim. It is cheap and looks great. The downside is that it wears quickly. You can check to see it this is lacquer, put a small amount of laquer thinner on a rag and see it you can soften or remove some of the lacquer. If you can the stain/clear coat is lacquer. You may be able to remove all the red stain with rags and lacquer thinner. Read and follow directions, this stuff can be dangerous.

The stain color appears to be cherry mahogany which is a Blond-it lacquer based stain that has been discontinued 3-4 years ago.

This is a project that may be out of the DIY area. Also consider just replacing the hand rail. You may save time, money, and the smell issues.

undersc0re

Thanks guys, appreciate the input, I have not tackled it yet, as I would probably spend way too much money on coming home with the wrong tint every time lol. I will figure sumthin out soon, sooo busy at work. Your right about the colour not being stained in, it just wipes off with a warm rag on the slightly worn areas and easily!

undersc0re

oops double post darn internet explorer