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sh40674 06-20-2013 06:10 AM

which stain for deck
 
Anyone recommend a good stain for decking and a wood fence? Not sure if I want a semi transparent or solid color yet.. will be going on treated wood. Biggest thing is I don't want it slippery as heck like Thompsons when its wet.. also, how will each cover consider some of the wood is darker, some is lighter (different shades) thanks guys and gals in advance!

ltd 06-20-2013 06:44 AM

I like Sherwin williams deckscapes,in a solid for older decks .it kind of gets down in all the cracks and kind of binds all the old wood fiber together ,not slippery .s/w recommends 2 coats for good protection ,but I have done 1 on my own deck and it looks great. as for fence s/w makes a good stain also

sh40674 06-20-2013 07:07 AM

Thinking of using the same on the fence.. its just a decorative wood fence around the patio. Nothing like a privacy fence or a border between properties

Jmayspaint 06-20-2013 07:42 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by sh40674
Anyone recommend a good stain for decking and a wood fence? Not sure if I want a semi transparent or solid color yet.. will be going on treated wood. Biggest thing is I don't want it slippery as heck like Thompsons when its wet.. also, how will each cover consider some of the wood is darker, some is lighter (different shades) thanks guys and gals in advance!

Its usually advised to stay away from solid stains on deck floors unless its necessary because of extreme weathering, and/or failed old coatings. At least on the floor. Fencing and other horizontal surfaces aren't at risk as of peeling as much.
Either way, there are very few long term deck coatings/sealers. The advantage to using a semi-trans or a toner on the floor is that when its time to maintain it, the prep work is generally not as involved. When a solid deck starts peeling, its labor intensive to fix.
Semi-trans stain won't do as much as far as evening out different boards though. They do help with uniformity by giving all the boards the same tint. Part of the point of semi-trans is to let the wood show through to an extent.
If the treated wood is new, it will need to weather some before staining of any kind. Different brands are different, but its generally accepted to wait at least several months before applying any stain. There are products out there to apply to new wood that will keep it from graying during the waiting period, and still allow it to cure. Although treated wood doesn't tend to gray very fast anyway in most climates. Washing/cleaning new wood prior to staining is also a very good idea.

Toners are my favorite for deck floors. They penetrate completely, don't get slippery when wet (most semi-trans doesn't), and generally last about 3 years.

This is Olympic cedar toner or a 14 month old (covered) deck floor that was washed prior to application.











I've done several decks where the horizontals (pickets, post, fencing) were done in a solid, and the floor done in a semi trans to match. (The darker redish pics)

The last pic is Cabbot semi -trans after 3 years on a exposed floor. Time to do it again.

user1007 06-20-2013 08:08 AM

I agree that solid stains are not a great idea for walked on horizontal deck surfaces.

I would look at Sherwin Williams waterbased Woodscapes solid stain for the fence and vertical members and railings if a solid color look with some wood texture showing is what you want. You can tint it any color.

Then pick something else for the deck itself---Deckscapes is a a possibility (I think Deckscapes comes in only a semi-transparent and semi-solid product by the way). Sikkens products would be worth looking at. Olympic is not what it used to be and I am suspiscious whether box store Cabot is the same as paint store Cabot also. If there is a huge price spread, probably not.

I am not sure I have a strong argument anymore but I guess I am a purist and grew up applying penetrating solvent based deck stains so never switched to waterbased for that part of things.

Definitely search other threads on this topic as it comes up often and I cannot remember all the product recommendations.

You mentioned you were staining treated lumber. Make sure you can stain it right away if it is new. With much of it you have to let it sit for 6-12 months before finishing it.

ccarlisle 06-20-2013 08:41 AM

Some good points made above; IMO, Cabot, Sikkens, Sherwin Williams, and even Benjamin Moore put out "passable" stains - which is good for a big box store quality - but nothing much to write home about. These stains in semi-transparent will give you protection for about three years, tops, the oil-based stains a bit more.

But don't forget there are companies out there that make stains - in fact that's all they do - so offer better quality per gallon. Look for them on-line. You may only get 3+ years of protection but the look will be a lot nicer.

Where are you and what type of wood? Full sun or shade?

sh40674 06-20-2013 08:47 AM

I don't mind re staining every couple years.. in Iowa and full sun

ccarlisle 06-20-2013 08:55 AM

Where does the 'Thompson's' come into all this? are you just thinking about it or have you already applied it?

sh40674 06-20-2013 08:57 AM

No I have not just the only crap I've used is Thompsons

sh40674 06-20-2013 09:05 AM

I'm more worried about something that is slippery.. or are they all?

gregzoll 06-20-2013 09:07 AM

There is the newer finishes out there, that give a non-skid surface, and will last longer than stain. The off side is that it makes it look like Trex, but something to maybe look at.

ccarlisle 06-20-2013 09:14 AM

What type of wood and has it already gone grey?

sh40674 06-20-2013 09:17 AM

Again... Treated lumber AMD planning for the future.

user1007 06-20-2013 09:28 AM

Re-read your post. Avoid Thompson's.

As for color on differing age boards? As you move up the scale from clear (or nearly clear) sealers to semi-transparent stains, and then transcend into semi-solids and finally solid stains, you add pigment. If you need to blend in varied shades or existing colors, you will probably need to step up to a product with more pigment. Or sometimes, you can accomplish blending with a darker color semi-transparent.

Best to try some small sections before buying 30 gallons of stain.

ccarlisle 06-20-2013 09:40 AM

OK; depends on how far you want to go to get a nice looking deck, IMO. But first, I'd plan out any further consideration of Thompson's Water Seal, because the basic product is just a solvent-based waterproofer that you'd need to re-apply every few months to get whatever advantage that 'waterproofing a deck' is to you. Doesn't protect against UV, freezing or mildew, three of the main enemies of decks.

The problem is you've already got it on there and any further stains will have a hard time absorbing uniformly.

Either sand it off, and go the whole semi-transparent stain route - or stick with it.


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