Spot Priming Interior

hagler

Looking for some help/opinions on spot priming .

I've patched a couple of holes and fixed many nail heads in one of my interior bedrooms and have covered them with 3 coats of joint compound.

I plan on having the primer tinted for my topcoat color (which will be a light color) and then painting two coats of satin finish. I'm just wondering if I can spot prime and not have to prime the entire room?

My question is: can I spot prime and what kind of primer is recommended?

I've read that if you use a high quality primer that it will seal the areas of joint compound and will flash through when painted...so, high quality might not be the best here...?

Is a run of the mill primer better? and is there a recommended one from a big box store (Lowes or Home Depot in my area)?

Please advise on spot priming or not.
Thank you.

Also, for the ceiling, which will be flat white...do I need to prime or can I just hit it with two coats of flat white over the joint compound???

Gymschu

My process (which probably differs from some on here) is to prime those spots with a quality drywall primer such as SW's Drywall primer. After the primer has dried adequately (check label to be sure) I hit those primed spots with paint and allow that to dry properly. Now wall is ready for your finish coats. After 2 coats you won't see any spots flashing through.

As for ceilings, I usually just hit it with finish paint. One coat if it covers well, two if it doesn't cover so well.

hagler

Do I need to get the drwall primer tinted according to my finish coat or do I use it as is right out of the can and then 1 coat of my finish paint over those areas?

sdsester

You certainly will not hurt anything tinting the primer but you may relegate it for use only in the room intended. If you are painting a light color anyhow, you may want to leave it white. And you do not want too much pigment in primer so when I tinted I kept to around 40 percent of the color formula.

I don't shop in box stores for anything but believe some of them carry Zinsser primers. Now a Rustoleum company as I remember, they perform consistently well. I liked Benjamin Moore Fresh Start primers but they are pricier and I would have no reservations about using a Zinsser product.

Whatever you do, stay away from box store brands---Valspar, Behr, etc. Except for the original oil based alkyd, Kilz is pretty worthless too.

And don't fall for anybody's claim to have a primer and paint in one product. Get your paint at a real paint store. You may get a better overall discount (Do not by shy about asking for one!) if you buy everything from the paint store.

I guess I differed in approach from Gymshcu slightly in that I tended to at least spot prime any drywall patch---even on ceilings to be hit with a coat or two of ceiling white.

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chrisn

2 coats

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ToolSeeker

You do not say what color you are painting over so you may need to prime the whole room. If you sanded your repairs, and I'm sure you did, don't forget to wipe your walls down. I don't know what you read but quality primer is the best for all situations. Again depending on what color your painting over, as in your painting a light color over a light color don't get it tinted and as long as you have it why not use it on your ceiling repairs. Think cheap insurance.

bigchaz

Hi, I was searching the forums for a similar question so I hope this is not too old of a thread to resurrect.

Like the original poster I also have patched some of my walls (3 coats joint compound, sanded, wiped down).

I am repainting the wall the exact same color so I was hoping to only use 1 top coat (paint is in good shape). However, what is the best way to treat the patched areas? Can I spot paint with my top coat as a primer on those patched areas or do I need to use an actual primer?

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Mr. Paint

Zinsser 1-2-3 Bull's Eye is a decent primer for what you are doing and if you have some left-over, it has versatile uses around the home. You can buy this at the box stores and most independent dealers.

Brushjockey

Unless the final finish is a dead flat- a mud repair almost always requires 3 coats to not flash. It can be 1 spot prime, I spot with finish and then your full coat. But will need 3 total.
I f you have lots of spots on a given wall I would spot prime and then 2 full coats.

Some all acrylic paints can be used for all 3 - this is one of the times the paint and primer line can work.

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princelake

if theres just a few patches i'd just "dry" roll the spots with the wall color then 2 normal coats of the wall color. dry rolling is when you start rolling a wall and your roller has hardly any paint left on it and you go over the patched spots with the dry roller.
if time and money is of no concern then go out pick up some primer and prime the area, no need for going over the entire wall. bulleye 1-2-3 is decent.

ToolSeeker

Because your patches will absorb the paint differently I would spot prime with the 123 I have used the dry roll method and for me it was hit and miss unless your wall are a flat color. I am pretty sure you can get 123 in Qts.if that is all you need.

bigchaz

I took down a chair rail and 6 electrical boxes for old surround sound speakers so there is a pretty good amount of patching on there. I will go ahead and prime the entire room before repainting since its not going to be a flat paint.

Thank you all for the suggestions. I have an account at Sherwin Williams, do they have a primer comparable to the 1-2-3?

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cdaniels

Yes SW has a Multi-Purpose primer that would work well for your situation.

Matthewt1970

Spot priming is fine then you really need 2 coats over that.

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