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Old 12-11-2011, 09:52 PM   #16
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Speed Wall Paint


I hear what you guys are saying and we've been here 11 years now and I do curse the previous owners all the time. He was not an electrician, not a framer, etc. I try to do everything around the house to the best of my ability and if I think I can't I call in the pros. House was built in the 50's and none of the walls are perfect. Lots of drywall imperfections from over the years. And probably God knows what kinds of paint are under there.

I know since we've been there, on some walls there are:
1. Whatever paint was there before.
2. 2 coats of 11 year old cheap paint (IIRC we used Dutch Boy when we moved in)
3. 2 coats of Sherwin Williams real cheap stuff that they used after the fire we had in 2005 (no structural damage but lots of smoke damage). I know it was cheap (Pro Mar 200, IIRC) because when I went to buy more to touch up the kitchen the guy at the paint store looked at me like I had 2 heads and asked why I wanted such cheap paint.

So we're not dealing with pristine walls or even good paint along the way. I don't think it will make it much worse than what's there and none of it has flaked off, even the Behr in the bathroom that has been there since 2006.

I'm inclined to just leave it as is for a while and see if people really care about the colors. I know it wouldn't matter to me as I'd want to paint at some point in the new house.

But I have one more serious question. What is proper prep? I've always done it like this: Scuff up the underlying paint (I use 220 grit in an orbital), wash the walls with TSP to remove contaminants and dust and then paint when that is dry. Right, Wrong, or something else?
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Old 12-11-2011, 11:04 PM   #17
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PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE....DON'T do any painting no matter what the realtor says!!!!!

Knowing what I know NOW...I'd take a baseball-bat to sellers who "just painted to sell" using that crap paint!!!!!!!!!!

Do yourself a favor and just leave it!

That way, the new HO's don't have to worry about cleaning-up/repairing a crap-ola paintjob that used crap-ola paint.

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Old 12-12-2011, 04:02 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by itguy08 View Post
I hear what you guys are saying and we've been here 11 years now and I do curse the previous owners all the time. He was not an electrician, not a framer, etc. I try to do everything around the house to the best of my ability and if I think I can't I call in the pros. House was built in the 50's and none of the walls are perfect. Lots of drywall imperfections from over the years. And probably God knows what kinds of paint are under there.

I know since we've been there, on some walls there are:
1. Whatever paint was there before.
2. 2 coats of 11 year old cheap paint (IIRC we used Dutch Boy when we moved in)
3. 2 coats of Sherwin Williams real cheap stuff that they used after the fire we had in 2005 (no structural damage but lots of smoke damage). I know it was cheap (Pro Mar 200, IIRC) because when I went to buy more to touch up the kitchen the guy at the paint store looked at me like I had 2 heads and asked why I wanted such cheap paint.

So we're not dealing with pristine walls or even good paint along the way. I don't think it will make it much worse than what's there and none of it has flaked off, even the Behr in the bathroom that has been there since 2006.

I'm inclined to just leave it as is for a while and see if people really care about the colors. I know it wouldn't matter to me as I'd want to paint at some point in the new house.

But I have one more serious question. What is proper prep? I've always done it like this: Scuff up the underlying paint (I use 220 grit in an orbital), wash the walls with TSP to remove contaminants and dust and then paint when that is dry. Right, Wrong, or something else?

That would do it
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Old 12-12-2011, 04:39 AM   #19
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....but shouldn't you clean it first, THEN sand/scuff/paint it?

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Old 12-12-2011, 04:50 AM   #20
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Here is something to consider. I have a relationship as a painter with numerous realtors in my area and on a few occasions when the existing paint colors and or condition of the paint was thought to maybe be a sticking point to selling the place i have given them an estimate on the cost of repaint (approximate) and they have used that and offered prospective buyers a painting allowance to help offset the cost.
this works out for all and the buyer can have the colors he personally chooses which appeals to them.
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Old 12-12-2011, 06:04 AM   #21
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....but shouldn't you clean it first, THEN sand/scuff/paint it?

DM
well, yes!
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Old 12-12-2011, 06:15 AM   #22
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Getting ready to sell the house in the next month or so and after meeting with our realtor it looks like we have some painting to do to tone down some of the colors in the house. Pretty much the standard white in the living room, off white bathroom, and cover my navy blue office.

Was looking at paint prices in Home Depot and I just can't see paying $2-300+ for paint for these rooms for a house we're not going to be in and that the new owners will most likely paint anyway.

Then I ran across this Speed Wall stuff at $13 a gallon and that's more like it. Is it any good? I really don't care about durability or anything like that since we're not going to be here. When we moved in 11 years ago the first thing we did was paint so I'd imagine the new owners would be the same.

Or should I pony up for the cheapest Behr, Glidden, or Valspar that I can find?
First of all, it'd be nice if potential buyers had the smarts to "see through" a color of paint the don't really like, and/or just admit that they're probably going to repaint immediately anyway. But that's not necessarily true. This is an extreme buyers' market, and most potential buyers are going to use ugly walls as leverage for a lower price. I know I would. So you're probably wise to tone down loud colors...


That said, I tried a gallon of that, in a small laundry room, in a rental house a couple months ago. It was on sale for $8.99 per gallon, and since it was a tiny laundry room, I figured what the heck. I went with Eggshell luster.

It's definitely a low-end paint.

If you're going to use it to "tone down" some bold colors, you better figure on tinting primer to the finished color, then using at least 3 coats of this stuff to get decent coverage. My finished product looks just fine, but it was a little tougher getting there.


In the end, that paint was "okay" for a laundry room, but I don't think I'd risk using it in larger rooms - especially where coverage is going to be very important.

Good luck!

Last edited by DrHicks; 12-12-2011 at 06:23 AM.
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Old 12-12-2011, 07:15 AM   #23
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IT- you've got the right idea for the walls. Where things get really ruined is when someone splashes a coat over the woodwork without the right prep. If you read that other thread- that is the result.
Just paint it with at least a mid grade paint, and do it like you were going to continue to live there.
Or hook in with a painter, and get a nice job - because that also helps the sell.
Good luck-
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Old 12-12-2011, 07:25 AM   #24
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IT- you've got the right idea for the walls. Where things get really ruined is when someone splashes a coat over the woodwork without the right prep. If you read that other thread- that is the result.
Just paint it with at least a mid grade paint, and do it like you were going to continue to live there.
Or hook in with a painter, and get a nice job - because that also helps the sell.
Good luck-
A previous owner did that to the woodwork in the house we're now living.

But considering that it's a 1928-built brick home, with huge oak woodwork, the fact that the paint easily peeled off in huge chunks is NOT a problem!
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Old 12-12-2011, 02:08 PM   #25
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There is no doubt that a good fresh paint job in calming neutral colors will more than pay for itself in terms of the price you can get for your house as well as how quickly it sells. The key point here is *pays for itself*, probably by 10x. You'll get more than your money back, so go ahead and do it right.

I don't fault anyone for painting before they sell. Hell, I did and it made a difference. But just do it right, no matter what sort of crap is underneath. Good coat of paint on top of several questionable coats is better than a crappy coat on top of them.

And for the most part, we're talking about a good wash with Dirtex or similar and then sanding/roughening as nessesary. Certainly scraping any loose paint goes without saying.
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Old 12-12-2011, 02:53 PM   #26
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The Speedwall products sold in Home Depot are the same as those sold in the Glidden Professional stores. It is basically an equivalent to Pro Mar 700.
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Old 12-12-2011, 08:25 PM   #27
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packer rich What is floatrol or a floatrol?
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Old 12-12-2011, 08:36 PM   #28
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It's a brand name for a product that slows the drying of the paint. I used it when painting a ceiling and had marks where the roller lines overlapped. You can google the name. i even had questions when i first used it and called the manufacturer. They answered with a live person and had knowledgable answers to my questions
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Old 12-13-2011, 03:24 AM   #29
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http://www.flood.com/paint-additive-...p?productId=12
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