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-   -   spackle over caulking prevents cracks from recurring? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/spackle-over-caulking-prevents-cracks-recurring-180673/)

pman6 05-27-2013 09:16 PM

spackle over caulking prevents cracks from recurring?
 
http://www.contractortalk.com/f8/spa...er-caulk-8589/


Just found that on google.

I have dry, cracked fascia board, and I'm wondering whether anyone else has used this spackle over caulk trick to prevent cracks from coming back.

I don't understand the theory behind why this works. Caulk by itself will crack. Spackle by itself will crack. But spackle over caulk won't crack, according to these guys.


http://www.diychatroom.com/attachmen...ckedfascia.jpg

Matthewt1970 05-27-2013 11:53 PM

You are better off with just the spackle. Spackle over caulk will just make the spackle fall out of the cracks. Spackle wants a hard surface to bond to, not a flexible one like caulk.

user1007 05-28-2013 12:42 AM

Have you seen the You Tube videos with guys showing how to turn common metal into pure 24K gold?

Hint. Hint.

user1007 05-28-2013 12:46 AM

In restoring exterior woods that would have to be milled and shaped, I use epoxy products. Abatron is my go to supplier for such things but there are other companies around the marine world good too.

Wood epoxy will end up stronger than the wood itself. But to use it on facia like yours? $$$$. Why not just replace the facia if it is on its way to being shot. Will cost you less in the long run than trying to fix it with spackle, caulking, epoxy or whatever.

RWolff 05-28-2013 01:31 AM

You dont want to put spackle outside anyway, it's an interior product, caulk will not crack if you use the good stuff, the $1.99 a tube stuff is garbage. Fact is, wood expands and contracts with humidity and temperature, you can't stop this and if you put something hard in open expansion cracks of the wood it can't shrink back where it was and this makes more cracks. Good paintable caulk will stay and move with the board.

pman6 05-28-2013 02:30 AM

so we're talking about Dap Dynaflex stuff?

That Dap Alex Plus (with silicone) is crap too, right?


Quote:

Originally Posted by sdsester (Post 1189208)
. Why not just replace the facia if it is on its way to being shot. Will cost you less in the long run than trying to fix it with spackle, caulking, epoxy or whatever.

It's not shot. just cracked and weathered. I was hoping to use a putty knife and shove in as much caulking as I could.

RWolff 05-28-2013 02:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pman6 (Post 1189220)
so we're talking about Dap Dynaflex stuff?

That Dap Alex Plus (with silicone) is crap too, right?

It's not shot. just cracked and weathered. I was hoping to use a putty knife and shove in as much caulking as I could.

Cracked and weathered IS basically shot because you are here wanting to know how to FIX it. Any kind of caulk or filler you put in is going to eventually sooner or later crack again that's the reality of wood. It might just be a bad board from the lumber mill, one whose grain and all is in a poor orientation angle, I have seen this in boards, you get one board that either came from a bad tree, or it was cut poorly at the mill and it's the one board in the stack you get that wants to twist like hell, cup, warp, split, or close up on the table saw blade when you try ripping it to width.

I have heard that trees exposed to a lot of wind tend to grow wood that can be problematic due to all the stresses in it when it was in the tree, true or not I don't know, but I have seen boards that are just poor from the start and yours could be one of those.

Patch and paint, and plan on doing it again, or replace with a new board, or cover it over with something.

Your board is fairly wide, it's nailed up there and what's happening in part anyway is the board is wanting to shrink and expand and all the nails are
partially preventing it, so the weakest part gives out first- where the grain is, or a previous crack which will lengthen and expand, or where a small crack was started by careless nailing, or open pores such as found in oak will widen up.
A couple of good heavy coats of paint will probably cover/fill a lot of the smaller cracks anyway.
Quote:

Caulk by itself will crack. Spackle by itself will crack. But spackle over caulk won't crack, according to these guys.
Don't believe everything you read on the internet and that's one of them, who the heck comes up with this stuff?? spackle is extremely soft, easy to break up and it's certainly not weather resistant! Spackle cannot adhere to caulk any more than oil and water mix, spackle also can't just be globbed in and left in thick section it wont dry, it also shrinks.
A good silicone based caulk adheres well and doesn't just crack, but you need the paintable stuff and I don't know what if any 100% silicone caulks are paintable.

Jmayspaint 05-28-2013 07:15 AM

My Doctor is painting his own home DYI (who knows why), and he was telling me at my last visit that he has been using spackle and caulk mixed together to make a semi- flexible, semi-sandable, filler for similar things to what your describing. He was very excited about the results.
I don't know where he got this idea (Internet forum maybe?), but whatever works, I didn't argue with him.
I'm not crazy about using spackle of any kind outside, think I would stick with caulk. Because as stated, anything that's not flexible is likely to fall/crack out over time.
As far as using both, I would assume the idea is for the caulk to lend flexibility to the spackle.

user1007 05-28-2013 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jmayspaint (Post 1189266)
My Doctor is painting his own home DYI (who knows why), and he was telling me at my last visit that he has been using spackle and caulk mixed together to make a semi- flexible, semi-sandable, filler for similar things to what your describing. He was very excited about the results.
I don't know where he got this idea (Internet forum maybe?), but whatever works, I didn't argue with him.
I'm not crazy about using spackle of any kind outside, think I would stick with caulk. Because as stated, anything that's not flexible is likely to fall/crack out over time.
As far as using both, I would assume the idea is for the caulk to lend flexibility to the spackle.

Doctors know everything and are omnipotent so he must be right. And after years of free cruises from pharmaceutical companies filling in knowlege of concoctions because the doc only took one quarter of pharmacology in med school? I can see him falling for some mix of caulking and spackle.

I can see his precious arse falling off a ladder too. Nothing against the thrill of DIY but I had a seven figure income, I would not be painting the exterior of my own.

Two docs in my extended family now. I can tolerate them over the boring accountants and lawyers though.

Once introduced extended care facilities for a major Chicago Hospital. Our in-house terminology almost made it to signage but the docs had some problems with both "Quack in a Shack" and "Doc in a Box".

pman6 05-28-2013 03:26 PM

don't knock it till you try it.

I will try a small area with caulk and joint compound mix. See what results I get, and maybe i'll post back in a year.
Not going to do the whole fascia though.

kinda reminds me of those stucco crack sanded caulks.


If I only need paintable silicone caulk, then DAP Alex Plus meets that criteria, and it's only ~$2 a tube. The general acrylic painters caulk is 50 cents cheaper.

The premium stuff is $4 a tube, and is more elastic acrylic.

Matthewt1970 05-28-2013 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pman6 (Post 1189577)
don't knock it till you try it.

I will try a small area with caulk and joint compound mix. See what results I get, and maybe i'll post back in a year.
Not going to do the whole fascia though.

kinda reminds me of those stucco crack sanded caulks.


If I only need paintable silicone caulk, then DAP Alex Plus meets that criteria, and it's only ~$2 a tube. The general acrylic painters caulk is 50 cents cheaper.

The premium stuff is $4 a tube, and is more elastic acrylic.

DAP Alex Plus isn't what it used to be. I opt for the Sherwin Williams stuff now. BTW, I think i mentioned this in the last thread, if you knew how easy and not too expensive it is to replace those we wouldn't even be having this thread.

user1007 05-28-2013 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matthewt1970 (Post 1189583)
DAP Alex Plus isn't what it used to be. I opt for the Sherwin Williams stuff now. BTW, I think i mentioned this in the last thread, if you knew how easy and not too expensive it is to replace those we wouldn't even be having this thread.

You are saying spending 10 minutes to take down failing 1x facia, selling for $3 a board foot is cheaper than getting up their and spending a weekend with some mix of fillers?:thumbup:

Matthewt1970 05-28-2013 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sdsester (Post 1189628)
You are saying spending 10 minutes to take down failing 1x facia, selling for $3 a board foot is cheaper than getting up their and spending a weekend with some mix of fillers?:thumbup:

And I think it's cheaper than that.

pman6 05-28-2013 05:24 PM

trust me. It's not easy, and it's a two man job.

The fascias are 2x8's. Not your 10 minute job. I already replaced 20 feet on another side of the house, and it's not quick.

The gables are even trickier with the drip edging, and no rafters.

douglas fir 2x8x12's run $11 a piece, and I need about 6 of them. plus all the labor.

I could finish a caulk and patch job way faster

Matthewt1970 05-28-2013 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pman6 (Post 1189672)
trust me. It's not easy, and it's a two man job.

The fascias are 2x8's. Not your 10 minute job. I already replaced 20 feet on another side of the house, and it's not quick.

The gables are even trickier with the drip edging, and no rafters.

douglas fir 2x8x12's run $11 a piece, and I need about 6 of them. plus all the labor.

I could finish a caulk and patch job way faster

Are you sure those are 2x8's


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