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Old 08-07-2013, 02:30 PM   #16
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Gripper is good- but as you can tell by the name, it's main thing is adhesion.
I would use Zinsser 123 or 123 plus. It gives an already smooth hard coat and will help you see what needs a little more work.
There are others that are similar- but that is a good one.

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Old 08-07-2013, 02:35 PM   #17
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I can't comment on that brand of primer--I use Benjamin Moore paint ,so I just don't know that one----

I just wanted to wish you luck with the schedule---and offer these suggestions----Buy a really good brush---Purdy and Wooster make nice ones---

Use White Dove roller covers (or similar qualit)---

Get a 'hot dog ' roller---use this for narrow places like above a door--

Real cloth painters tarps are great---the 4x12 runners are most useful--

If you use 5 gallon buckets---use them to fill pans or cans---working right out of the bucket is likely to contaminate the paint with dust and paint scum.

Best of luck---Mike-----
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Old 08-07-2013, 02:54 PM   #18
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"He now says it is paint "prep" ready whatever that may mean...
I reckon that all that means is that he knows how to wriggle his way out of contentious issues...but to be fair, he may only claim to do drywall, not painting.
"so what do you think of the gripper?''
Haven't the foggiest...but one thing I do know is that there is no one answer to leading questions like that. See, I look at painting like a mixture of products, systems and knowledge and that there is no 'best' product, no 'best' system or no 'best' knowledge - otherwise everyone would be doing it one way and one way only; and the solution to issues at hand depends on a lot of factors.

So you'll rarely find a pro here who'll swear by, say, just one primer for all situations - because each situation is different. His talent combines the knowledge of what primer, what paint and what tricks he can bring to give you a nice job. They might have opinions on which is better - but that's as far as they'll go.

For example, sometimes the primer has to do with the final paint choice of colours...so we'd have to know what final colour (and sheen) you intend on putting down there before making a selection of primer. Some even say stick with the same company for paint and primer...or conversely chose primers made by a primer manufacturer...

But far and away the best piece of advice one could give you is stick with the paint stores - not the big box stores.
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Old 08-07-2013, 04:14 PM   #19
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I have used the "gripper" primer and it was OK I would prefer it over PVA. My go to primer is 123 or 123 plus. That is probably because I have used them for years and know what to expect. I like the 123 plus for the stain blocking feature, but that should not be your problem on new drywall.
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Old 08-07-2013, 04:43 PM   #20
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Gripper is better than PVA for sure
and there is no reason what so ever to put 2 coats of primer on, none
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Old 08-07-2013, 04:54 PM   #21
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The final colors aren't too exciting. Swiss coffee on the ceiling and Dunn Edwards bone on 90% of the walls. My kids are another story. The ceilings in the bedrooms had some water stains so maybe the 123 plus would be good.

Can I use the different primer over the first coat? Do I need to stay with the same brand but I guess not if you guys like the 123 product.

I just really want it to look nice ok great once we are done and there are so many choices out there.

What about Dunn Edwards? Do we like that paint or Benjamin Moore? What is your go to paint that isn't going to break the bank since the whole house needs to painted.

I will go to an independent paint store also.

Thanks again!
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Old 08-07-2013, 04:57 PM   #22
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You can use the 123plus for spot priming water stained areas without having to roll the entire ceiling---

I'll step out of the paint brand discussion---my knowledge of paint brands is limited----Mike----
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Old 08-07-2013, 05:08 PM   #23
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Dunn E is not available here- but I do know BM. Like all brands, they have many lines.
The really good overall line is the Regal select- but i am also very pleased with the Ultra Spec line- priced similar to Behr.
One Q would be what sheen are you looking for and where?
Not all paints use the same def of sheens..
In the BM lines i would use either Matte ( or Low Sheen in Ultra spec) on most walls, up to an egg in baths and kitchen.
Very flat on ceilings.

General rule of thumb.

Are you doing trim too?
For brushing BM Advance satin is a good choice.

BTW- I'm confused by this comment-
Quote:
Can I use the different primer over the first coat
If the walls are skimmed ( raw mud) you need to prime. if they are already painted with no mud, and not really hi sheen, no primer needed- go straight to 2 coats paint.
Primer will not look like its getting great opacity- that isn't it's job. paint will get a color up to speed much faster.
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Last edited by Brushjockey; 08-07-2013 at 05:30 PM.
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Old 08-07-2013, 05:47 PM   #24
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Sorry I thought I had put in the sheen. We are looking to do flat on both ceilings and walls. Matte sounds good too maybe for the walls. I've read other threads and it seems like flat is the way to go. I have two kids (14 girl and 12 boy ) though (plus the big one aka hubby) so I'm a little nervous about the flat. But that is what hides any imperfections right?

Last edited by TinaV; 08-07-2013 at 05:53 PM.
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Old 08-07-2013, 05:52 PM   #25
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[QUOTE=

BTW- I'm confused by this comment-

If the walls are skimmed ( raw mud) you need to prime. if they are already painted with no mud, and not really hi sheen, no primer needed- go straight to 2 coats paint.
Primer will not look like its getting great opacity- that isn't it's job. paint will get a color up to speed much faster.[/QUOTE]

Sorry i meant over the first coat of primer but maybe I don't need the second coat as some are saying just spot roll any stain that shows...and no need for two coats. I'm all for less work

And yes we are doing some wood trim and baseboard when we get that up. Thanks for the tip on those!
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Old 08-07-2013, 05:54 PM   #26
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Flat is like a dirt sponge.. but it does hide imperfections.
So it is a trade off. BM Matte is pretty flat- but it does have some dirt holdout. U.S. low sheen is a bit more sheen than the matte.
You talked about level 5. If you can't put eggshell on it and have it be awesome, it is not level 5.

Flats may touch up easier- the higher sheens won't need it as much..

The resins in quality paint make up for alot of this difference- good stuff= better wash, less dirt and grease absorption etc. You do get what you pay for.
BTW- i have heard good things about DE- just am not familiar. But some of these same thoughts would apply there too.
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Old 08-07-2013, 08:31 PM   #27
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This whole thread has confused me. TinaV, no offense, but if you are trying to achieve a level 5 finish with such a seemingly high learning curve ahead of you, why did you insist on the skim coating? I totally understand trying to get a great finish on your walls, but, I think it was overkill if you are simply applying a FLAT finish on your walls........I don't think there was a need for Level 5 work under the circumstances. Not trying to be a thorn in your side, just curious. I think you could have saved yourself a boatload of $$$$$$$.
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Old 08-08-2013, 04:08 AM   #28
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As brush has said Ben Moore if you can afford it, I use PPG Manor hall, great paint less $$
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Old 08-08-2013, 06:30 AM   #29
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I think any of the paint store brands will work well for you SW, BM, PPG, ect. Dunn Edwards is a west coast brand and I have no experience with it. With children, all sizes, I would rethink flat on the walls. Light color+ children+the washability of flat=not too nice a look. Too go up a couple levels in sheen will not telegraph small imperfections but will make them a little more noticeable. When you get into semi and gloss then they telegraph them. After you prime you can see your imperfections and then sand and re-prime. You can also take a bright light hold it at an angle against the wall and see the imperfections, this way you can address them before you paint.
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Old 08-16-2013, 11:21 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinaV View Post
So my questions after all that is this... is there an industry standard (or sub standard) that there are going to be lots of areas that need to be sanded by the homeowner?
Well, talking about it like the homeowner has to do anything - that would be silly no matter what home improvement you paid for, and drywall is no different. It's so silly that it won't even be mentioned here because it's taken for granted. But this might be of help to you.
http://nationalgypsum.com/resources/...revisiting.htm

Quote:
Originally Posted by TinaV View Post
Two - primer - I am using Sherwin Williams PVA - so far it's looking really good on the two rooms I have done but some of the places I did not see to sand are standing out - can I still sand it out or am I out of luck and have to live with the marks?
You certainly can (and should) sand the drywall primer before final painting. Obviously if you sand clear through the primer, you should reprime that spot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TinaV View Post
Do I need two coats of primer? Or just one? I got a few quotes from painters and some of them said two coats primer and two coats color but then others are saying one primer and two color.
Two coats of primer is silly, and means it's just wasted time and money, or if it does help, then they're using the wrong kind of primer. The drywall and joint compound needs to be sealed.


Last edited by jeffnc; 08-16-2013 at 11:33 PM.
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