Slow drying Sherwin Williams paint

Woodsydad

I sprayed Sherwin Williams All Surface Enamel black acrylic latex high gloss paint on plywood with a Wagner Power Painter, waited the four hours it says to wait, then recoated and let it set for two days outside in the breeze with low humidity. After two days it was plenty drt to the touch. I flipped it over, put it on narrow boards and sprayed the back. Went out today to do a second coat on the back and when I lifted it up, it stuck to thboards and pulled off a couple of thin strips of paint.
Does anyone have experience with this paint? Suggestions?
The plywood is only three foot by three foot so, it's not like it was super heavy.
Thanks for any help.

Matthewt1970

The darker the paint, the longer the drying times. Was the wood primed or previously painted?

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Latex Primer: Good for Drywall, that's about it.
Behr Paint: The plastic buckets are good, that's about it.

Woodsydad

No, it was raw wood. The guy at the paint shop said I would not need a primer.

Matthewt1970

I really would have used some primer. You probably wouldn't have had this problem if you primed it. There are few surfaces and few paints that really don't need a primer.

__________________
Latex Primer: Good for Drywall, that's about it.
Behr Paint: The plastic buckets are good, that's about it.

Woodsydad

Thank for the advise. I will use a primer next time. I just hope I can get this one fixed, it has to ship out Monday, no ifs, ands or buts. I
I sprayed the second coat on the back tonight and will touch up the front with a brush in the morning.
I made a temporary spray both in the backyard from a screened canopy. I have plasticsheeting around it while I spray. My plan is to leave it with the plastic up for a couple of hours while the surface sets up, then remove the plastic and set out my box fan that is on a stand.
I used to use Rustoleum spray cans and never had this kind of problem.
I think the power sprayer may get put away. I never liked using rollers but, the sprayer is a pain. It left some little droplet looking areas on the surface.

Woodsydad

P. S. Thank you to everyone on forums like this. It is really great of people to take their time to help out complete strangers.
I do yard silhouettes, mostly praying soldiers and praying firemen to earn a little extra money but, also to support our troops and EMS. I've struggled along mostly self taught, which has meant plenty of painful lessons. I wish I had found this forum sooner.

chrisn

the guy is a fool, ALWAYS prime raw wood

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sdsester

Actually you should seal then prime raw wood. Or use a combo product that accomplishes this.

And remember, latex acrylic films with any sheen take 30 days or so to cure.

You are going to miss the primer you should have applied. Too late now though. Ever onward!

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Cpcphil

I would recommend always priming bare wood prior to painting. The black color has the most pigment and will take the longest to dry and cure. Placing a curing paint on a surface you run the risk of possible peeling especially if the saw horses had latex paint on them from other paint projects. Vinyl loves to stick to vinyl. It's the same reason why vinyl weather stripping sticks to a door painted with latex even years after the paint is dry. Always place a non-sticking barrier between two substrates that have curing latex paint on them. Rustoleum did stick because it was an oil spray which drys and cure faster than latex plus it does not contain any vinyl in the formula...

good luck...