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Old 04-15-2012, 04:36 PM   #16
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Skim Coat over Primer


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THANKS! When I sanded the blisters out the 1st time, I really couldn't see any marks left behind, but I skim coated to be safe. They are so small ---- literally pinhead size. When I first saw them after primer, I thought they were small pieces of dust or whatever that got caught in the roller or paint. They sanded out easily with a sanding sponge which led me to believe they were pieces of lint or dust. Then I realized they were small blisters. Anyways, per your recommendations, I will sand them out with the sanding spong, shellac the area, then primer. Think I will skip the joint compound and/or spackle step unless 1 of them really needs it. I think that the several skim coats over the sealed surface is also an issue, because that's what I've been doing trying to get everything just perfect. I need to learn that plain wallboard is never perfect. Am planning on topcoating with a satin finish.

Thanks for all of your help. This bedroom has been one thing after another. We've stripped and remodeled other rooms in the house without too many issues. This room, which we really thought was going to be the easiest of them all, must have a curse on it.

Never going to happen. If you are that close to the wall to pick out PINHEAD blemishes, then you are getting way too picky. That's my opinion for what it's worth.

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Old 04-15-2012, 07:17 PM   #17
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Skim Coat over Primer


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If you are that close to the wall to pick out PINHEAD blemishes, then you are getting way too picky.
Yes, I'm finding that out the hard way.

As a correction, I only have primer on the walls, I haven't applied the topcoat (satin finish) yet to any part of the walls.
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Old 04-15-2012, 07:45 PM   #18
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Skim Coat over Primer


If you only have primer on the walls now, I would spot prime the shellac with drywall primer to create a fully uniform flat surface on the walls.
If you're close enough to see pinhead holes, you're too close. I usually hit small missed nail holes with caulk as I'm rolling, spackle for them at the point you're at is overkill. A typical sheetrock wall is riddled with minor imperfections that will drive you nuts if you let it, don't. You can't chase every little thing that most people, other than you, won't even notice.
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Old 04-16-2012, 03:17 AM   #19
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[quote=jsheridan;899709]If you only have primer on the walls now, I would spot prime the shellac with drywall primer to create a fully uniform flat surface on the walls.
If you're close enough to see pinhead holes, you're too close. I usually hit small missed nail holes with caulk as I'm rolling, spackle for them at the point you're at is overkill. A typical sheetrock wall is riddled with minor imperfections that will drive you nuts if you let it, don't. You can't chase every little thing that most people, other than you, won't even notice.[/quote]



THAT"S what I was getting at earlier
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Old 04-16-2012, 05:27 AM   #20
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Skim Coat over Primer


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[quote=jsheridan;899709]If you only have primer on the walls now, I would spot prime the shellac with drywall primer to create a fully uniform flat surface on the walls.
If you're close enough to see pinhead holes, you're too close. I usually hit small missed nail holes with caulk as I'm rolling, spackle for them at the point you're at is overkill. A typical sheetrock wall is riddled with minor imperfections that will drive you nuts if you let it, don't. You can't chase every little thing that most people, other than you, won't even notice.


THAT"S what I was getting at earlier[/quote]

I know, I fully understood your point.
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Old 04-16-2012, 05:12 PM   #21
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Skim Coat over Primer


Just wanted to be clear on that.
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Old 04-16-2012, 05:49 PM   #22
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Roger that.
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:22 PM   #23
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Skim Coat over Primer


OK. Last question. I promise!

I was out of town for a week on business, and still haven't gone back to do much with the walls. Question is, I have all of the walls primered with drywall primer. I am going to spot spray the white pigmented shellac over the few spots where the primer blistered/bubbled. Of course, will sand the bubbles down first.

I will be topcoating with a satin finish ---- a paint and primer in one (if there is such a thing). From past experience, I will probably end up putting on 2 coats of topcoat since the first coat always looks spotty and like it gets half sucked into the wall to begin with. With the paint and primer in one, is it necessary to still put drywall primer on top of the shellac or can I skip that step and just topcoat over everything? With the "paint and primer in one" ---- and 2 coats of it-----will flashing be a concern at all?
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Old 04-26-2012, 12:57 AM   #24
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Skim Coat over Primer


I would like to say no, but. Your concern would be a shiner. The areas where you spot shellac will be oversealed, less absorptive, relative to the rest of the wall with regular drywall primer. It's possible that after two coats of finish that those spotted areas will have a higher sheen development than the rest of the wall and standout. It's hard to say. I would make uniform the whole wall to be on the safe side. Spot prime, allow the 1-4 four hours dry time and finish. Your here now, there's no going back once the satin is on the wall. Good luck, and when it's done, put the microscope away, lol.
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Old 05-02-2012, 09:16 PM   #25
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Skim Coat over Primer


I GIVE UP!

No matter where I spot primer with the SW Drywall Primer, the paint is blistering. Some small blisters and some larger ones. I am wondering if I just have way too many coats of primer on, not to mention joint compound skim coats and shellac undercoats, and now the various layers of primer just aren't cured and grabbing hold.

Should I sand everything back down to as close to the original finish as when I started out, or just sit back and wait about 30 days to allow everything to cure, fix the blistered areas, and cross my fingers and hope that I have seen the last of it.

The other problem is that I have no idea what type of paint the previous owner had used, and whether they even used a primer. When I took the brackets out of the closets, they had painted AROUND the brackets........meaning they hung the brackets up, then painted the drywall around it when the house was first built. Where the brackets were was still unpainted/bare drywall. I do know that every room had some sort of hideous yellow paint underneath the finish coats.

Other options I am considering is to tear down the drywall and start with new. Or maybe something easier.......permanently lock the bedroom, put up a skull and crossbones, and never go into that part of the house again.
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Old 07-03-2012, 12:43 PM   #26
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Skim Coat over Primer


I just read this thread and I am having the exact same issue except mine escalated to the ceiling even. I tried for weeks to paint a pre-existing painted wall. It is a newer home with latex painted walls. I had several screw pops and a lot of bad clumpy drywalled corners and paint chunks left on the ceiling and walls from the builder.

I patched all the screw pops with synko joint compound and ran a thin spot prime of behr interior drywall primer over the spots. Several days later I then did a one over priming of the entire room to give a nice "base" to start painting on. On this final coat of priming I started to notice the primer was pin sized blistering around the feathered out edges of the joint compound. I let it dry and cut out the blisters to re patch and re prime those spots. After re-priming the areas, I noticed more blisters around the edges of those spots I just touched up. I am very thorough and I clean and brushed off all surfaces after sanding.

I left the walls and started working on the ceiling. I began painting the ceiling with Behr Ceiling paint and the texture that came off the ceiling paint was atrocious. It caused me to have to skim coat the entire ceiling. Having so many problems with the behr primer on the walls I decided to go out to a paint store and ask their advice. They sent me home with Pratt and Lambert pro hide gold latex primer/sealer and pratt and lambert pro hide gold flat paint for the ceiling. I primed the ceiling with this new primer and it came out beautifully. I then gave the ceiling a coat of the pratt and lambert paint. The first coat had tiny blisters in one spot so I corrected these blisters as I did the wall blisters. I then put on a second coat. My wife was helping watch to make sure no lint or paint chunks were getting left on my roll-outs. Half way through the room, She and I started to panic as we started seeing tons of dime sized blisters forming through out the ceiling. All these blisters are from the primer lifting from the joint compound.

I let the ceiling dry and began to patch these spots. I have officially given up on trying to do this myself. I have been researching and asking people their thoughts on the situation. From what I am gathering.. Latex Primer is very porous. Any type of new paint or moisture you add on top of the surface will pass through the primer to the subsurface.

In my case, I suspect that, to solve my problems I need put a base of Oil Primer down to prevent and moisture from getting through to the joint compound layers. Oil primer dries and seals porous surfaces and should completely prevent any blistering from occurring due to the joint compound letting loose from moisture passing through to it.

On new drywall the joint compound has room to breath behind it. On a previously painted surface, the joint compound just acts as a sponge to hold the moisture from whatever porous surface above it is allowing through.

This is what I gather at least. I am having a painter come and quote the job now though.. I wasted too much time on this. It just bugs me because it is all about using the right product. If the big guns are needed to begin with to do the job right the first time, I would have preferred to have spent a few extra dollars instead of wasting all my time.

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