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-   -   sheetrock damage from wallpaper removal (http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/sheetrock-damage-wallpaper-removal-109234/)

1234mom 06-29-2011 10:37 PM

sheetrock damage from wallpaper removal
 
removed wallpaper that had been painted over from an unprimed sheetrock wall and didn't go so well. Lots of damage to the sheetrock. What should I do to repair it ?

chrisBC 06-30-2011 12:32 AM

skimcoat with drywall compound if it's a lot of damage, for little stuff just smooth and spackle. Use a wide knife (10-12) don't put on too much, do 1 or 2 coats as needed.

I usually prime the damaged areas before mudding because i've heard if you don't you can get bubbles in the mud or something. Maybe its not necessary but I do it, just quickly with a spraycan.

chrisn 06-30-2011 05:45 AM

1 Attachment(s)
That will certainly work but Gardz will work better and cheaper, this is exactly what it was made for:yes:

1234mom 06-30-2011 07:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisBC (Post 677002)
skimcoat with drywall compound if it's a lot of damage, for little stuff just smooth and spackle. Use a wide knife (10-12) don't put on too much, do 1 or 2 coats as needed.

I usually prime the damaged areas before mudding because i've heard if you don't you can get bubbles in the mud or something. Maybe its not necessary but I do it, just quickly with a spraycan.

I've primed with an oil based primer to make sure I have a good seal over the damaged sheet rock much of which is damaged badly. How precise do I need to be with the primer. I have the walls done well but didn't tape so don't have it right up to the very edges of the tub or ceiling, is this okay or do I need to get out tape and a brush to edge?

oh'mike 06-30-2011 07:38 AM

The torn paper face is the area that might bubble when taped--if the areas that aren't primed have the original paper you should be fine.

There are three types of mud---the first coat should be done with 'All purpose' the green lid--
that one has glue in it and will bond the best to the messed up walls.It is rather hard to sand.

I would use 'light weight' blue lid for the top coats --that one is easy to sand.

The third type is the powdered bag mix---'easy sand' chemical set--20-45-90 minute set times.

It is very hard and is used mainly to fill gaps and voids before taping and for mudding corner bead.
You should not need that one.----Mike----

chrisBC 06-30-2011 12:25 PM

yep, as stated above, the only areas you need to worry about when priming are those with the torn paper, the brown paper underneath will be exposed.

chrisBC 06-30-2011 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisn (Post 677051)
That will certainly work but Gardz will work better and cheaper, this is exactly what it was made for:yes:


hmm interesting, i'm not familiar with that. So you just roll it over the damaged area and it fills in the damage or what?

ltd 06-30-2011 04:25 PM

gardz, or if you cant find that s/w dry wall conditioner:yes:. brush over torn fuzzy area ,or roll , this is necessary:yes:.let dry then do you skim coat:wink: p/s it doesn't fill it in but rather clues it down and seals it

1234mom 06-30-2011 04:58 PM

so can anyone give advice on how to skim coat? Should it be of a certain thickness? And after I have the wall as smooth as possible should I use a waterbased primer again before painting?

Brushjockey 06-30-2011 04:58 PM

Gardz is the stuff. Soak the brown paper areas. But first sand them to get as much flacky paper off.
Another thing not mention is paper paste. Hopefully you got as much of that off as you can. Any large areas of it will reactivate and ruin your paint later.
Gardz is also great for sealing the residue paste ( after you've cleaned off as much as you can) .
It can also be used as a primer/sealer after you mud and sand if you're going to an eggshell or higher sheen. You can throw about 25% of you paint into it to give a little coverage too.

Brushjockey 06-30-2011 05:00 PM

When you skim, use the largest blade ( usually a 12" ) as you can . Also have a 6 and a 4 . All are handy. It is an acquired skill- not one that you just "get" . Takes practice.

Faron79 06-30-2011 11:46 PM

Yes....
Do all you can to find Gardz!!

Think of it as a "Clear Glue" layer.
It goes on kinda thin, like skim milk. Turns clear.
Prime whole room with it, paying special attention to the damaged areas.
Now all the exposed gypsum, torn edges, etc. are locked down, and can't cause any bubbling, lifting, etc.

NOW it's time for the filling/skimming steps.
As Brush said, this takes a skilled hand to do RIGHT. I'd urge you to HIRE this done!!! Done correctly, it will look beautiful, minimize final sanding, and add good value to your home.

Not sayin' you can't do it.....but everyone's got a "skill-set"...KWIM?!!?

>>> After the skimming/sanding is done, remove ALL DUST residue from walls. Every molecule... Check with firm hand wipes.
>>> Now use a good primer like Zinsser 123, C2-One, or a good Drywall primer. Apply a good FULL coat.

AT LAST....you're ready for final paint!!

Faron

Brushjockey 07-01-2011 06:25 AM

Faron- lets not get her scared about the dust- remove yes, every molecule? c'mon.

m1951mm 07-01-2011 08:36 AM

I agree that Guardz is wonderful for a seal coat on damaged drywall. I do not agree that it seals wallpaper glue all that well. I stripped a bathroom, had lots of wall damage so I knew I would need to use the Guardz. The label says that it will seal the paste, so I did not try to get ALL the glue off, but it did not. Since I was doing a venetian plaster finish on the walls, I knew I did not need the surface to be perfectly smooth. After priming with Guardz the plaster bubbled up on me. In the future I will always use an oil primer to seal in any wallpaper glue that just did not want to come off. Just my two cents.

Faron79 07-03-2011 12:22 AM

Brush-

I know...I know!
Just stressing the importance of a cleaned/dust-free wall!:laughing:

(I could've said...."remove every quark of dust..."!)

Faron


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