sanding stipple on smooth walls?

beachfront71 · 07-04-2012, 11:33 AM

Hi and thanks for any advice.

Just had walls smoothed to lvl 5 and I primed, and painted (2 coats) using purdy 3/8th nap roller.

Everything looks great except one wall where it looks like the roller matted up and left more obvious marks/stipple than the other walls.

My question is can I sand this wall to knock it down a bit and then go over it again with a smooth roller?

If so would there be suggestions as to the type/grit of sandpaper, etc. to accomplish this? I have a pole so I do not think it would take to long to do... just do not know if it is worth it results wise..

Thanks,

Brushjockey · 07-04-2012, 12:41 PM

yes- done all the time. One thing to consider is that the paint will pill up in sandpaper and sometimes leave marks. Might be worth getting the more expensive paper made for sanding latex paint. 100- 120 grit.

beachfront71 · 07-04-2012, 01:25 PM

Thanks Brush Jockey...
It sounds like I just need to go over it fairly light with the pole to knock it down and monitor the sand paper pilling..

I am then going to get the 3/16 rollers for the final coat...

I just finished painting 2 days ago (2 coats)

100-120 sounds a bit rougher than what I would have expected .. we used 150 for the mud and that left a few scars but you are the pro...

Any idea how long I should wait for the paint to fully cure so I am actually sanding the paint and not getting burn marks?

Brushjockey · 07-04-2012, 01:34 PM

Burn coats?

About paper- the paint will be harder than the mud, so it won't scratch so easy. I usually will take 2 pieces of the paper and rub then together to make them a little less aggressive

Recoat time is on can-- do not need full cure.

Technique is as important to small stipple as is roller nap. Also quality roller vs cheapo.

I almost always use a 1/2, wooster super fab or Purty white dove.
First stroke applies paint about 1 1/2 width of roller, then a couple of strokes to spread that out even, then finish long even stroke ceil to floor to finish. Sometimes I will do about a 4' section in the put on spread mode and then fall back and do most of it with the finish stroke. That gives the paint a little time to settle and makes for smaller stipple. But you must make sure that it is still wet and not stetting up. That will cause sheen differences..

beachfront71 · 07-04-2012, 01:49 PM

Thanks again .. check is in the mail..

Regarding burn coats ..

What I meant to say is how long to wait for the paint to dry before I can sand it .. it has been 2 days ..

In the past, I have sanded paint that was apparently not fully cured (whatever the word is) and I got streak marks .. the paint was dry but still flexible enough that instead of sanding it, I was just pulling and flattening it with the sand paper .. hope that makes sense..

Brushjockey · 07-04-2012, 02:31 PM

I know this can be inflammatory- but what paint are you using...?

chrisn · 07-04-2012, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brushjockey

I know this can be inflammatory- but what paint are you using...?

uh oh

beachfront71 · 07-04-2012, 05:52 PM

Regarding the burn spots or whatever we want to call them .. this has not happened in the home I am in now but in the past ..

but

for the record

I am using

Bher which for some reason I think I am going to get a bunch of **** for...

Brushjockey · 07-04-2012, 07:27 PM

Well at least you came up with a new way to spell it!

At least use their good stuff-- which is about upper mid in the greater scheme of things. The lesser paints will have lesser quality resins that will tend to be a bit rubbery-er..

chrisn · 07-05-2012, 04:35 AM

[quote=Brushjockey;958020]Well at least you came up with a new way to spell it!

At least use their good stuff-- which is about upper mid in the greater scheme of things. The lesser paints will have lesser quality resins that will tend to be a bit rubbery-er..[/quote]