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Old 08-05-2013, 11:27 AM   #1
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Runs form Airless


Hi everyone. I'm new to the forum and need some advice. I just sprayed with my airless for the first time and have some major runs. I used Pro Classic waterborne. My first door turned out great and I got over confident. I didn't realize this paint would run bad if you weren't careful. Needless to say I botched a door and need advice on cleaning it up. It's a smooth surface so I think I could sand it out. What I need is advice on how to tackle it. What grit paper? Wet or dry? Should I use a razor blade for the big runs? Anyone tried a hand planer? Thanks all.

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Old 08-05-2013, 12:04 PM   #2
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Spraying isn't easy and is not faster unless well trained. This you just found out.
Unfortunately, Waterbase doesn't sand easy. And it takes 2-3 weeks to get to full hardness.

I would carefully carve off the runs with a razor blade, then it is find what works best. Denatured alcohol is a solvent for fresh latex, you could try rubbing it out. You will need to wait some to sand. Sometimes if the remainder is slight I will use a filler like Crack Shot or Bordens wood filler to smooth out, sand and prime.

If it is as bad as it sounds might be easiest to completely strip. Being fresh this will go pretty quickly.

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Old 08-05-2013, 04:53 PM   #3
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Runs form Airless


I use Pro classic all the time so I don't think it's the paint, unless you thinned it. Several things can cause runs especially for someone new. Not being a smart a%$ just saying there is a learning curve for spraying. Thinning, moving gun to slow, to big a tip, too much pressure, these are just some of the things that can cause runs. That is why I suggest get a gallon or 2 of cheap mismatched paint and practice, practice, practice, on some large cardboard or plywood before you tackle something that counts.
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:35 AM   #4
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I'm not asking what I did wrong spraying. I'm asking how to fix the runs.
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Old 08-06-2013, 01:01 PM   #5
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Runs form Airless


As BJ suggests. There is not much you can do with latex/acrylic until it cures. Household versions skim over and seem dry to the touch but do not cure, inside and out below the surface for up to 30 days or so depending on climate.

So, I in the areas that went really bad? A nice, with-always-SHARP-blades, draw type scraper (one you pull toward you) will pull the soggy mess of paint off pretty easily. You cannot really sand it or you will go through thousands of sheets of paper and burn out a cheap Chinese sander or two of any kind.



I will not beat you up about thinking this was going to be faster and cheaper. Remember while not comforting at the moment, it is not the mistakes we make in life but the creative way we fix them. I do know spraying seems attractive. And now you have a garage ornament you, and perhaps other linked to you in the family hate? Get over it and move on.

You can try edging and trimming just the drips but good luck. I would get yourself a box of quality PLASTIC industrial razor blades and a handle and not use the steel ones that stain for this though. I your paint store does not have them, a marine store will or of course Amazon.


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Old 08-06-2013, 01:44 PM   #6
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Thanks but fixed most of the runs with 400 grit wetsand using a stirstick. Trick I learned from my brother at his autobody shop. Wet sanding actually worked pretty well!
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Old 08-06-2013, 02:05 PM   #7
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Interesting.

I have never fixed runs, drips in uncured latex household paint with 400 grit wet dry and a paint stick. Maybe our definitions got skewed starting with your original post?

And, if your brother owns an autobody shop? Didn't you listen to him for spray settings?
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Old 08-06-2013, 02:31 PM   #8
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LOL What definitions? I don't think he has ever sprayed a car with latex! Blahahaahaha!
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Old 08-06-2013, 05:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pday76 View Post
LOL What definitions? I don't think he has ever sprayed a car with latex! Blahahaahaha!
Maybe not latex but some of the finest automotive finishes are acrylic.Glad you found something that worked for you.

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