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igneous 12-02-2011 04:39 PM

roller naps
 
I've been using 3/8 nap woven covers for almost all of the interior repaints that I do. I usually follow with a 1/4 nap for the second/finish coat. From where I'm standing (unprofessional eye), the result looks fine. I tend to use pro mar 200 eg shell sheen. I've read here that using a 1/2 nap for flat paints is preferred. I've found them to be harder to work with when they're fully loaded. Also, doesn't it tend to put the paint on thicker than it should be? What would you recommend for satin finishes? Matte finishes?

ltd 12-02-2011 05:25 PM

generally speaking for flat or satin on texture walls, 1/2 purdy white dove, for dry wall or smooth plaster, 3/8 white dove.for ceilings smooth or texture using a flat ,1/2 white dove. for a smooth ceiling useing satin 3/8. i never use a 1/4 for anything thing:no: ,maybe rolling a flat door p/s you say you use 200 egg did you ever try 200 low sheen imo its just right:).

Brushjockey 12-02-2011 05:32 PM

My cover of choice is a Wooster 1/2 Super Fab.
Its all about technique to spread it out about 1 1/2 roller width , couple of strokes to even out, finish with top to bottom straight stroke.
I can use this cover for just about any finish- I don't roll or leave rolled) enamel trim finishes.

jsheridan 12-02-2011 09:21 PM

Igneous, I use 1/2 for flat and matte always, and eggshell most times. In a large room I'll use 1/2 for eggshell, but small rooms like kitchens, baths, or anywhere where your eye is close to the wall, I'll use 3/8. Always use 3/8 for satin and above for walls. I would never roll anything on a ceiling with less that 1/2 inch. However, I rarely roll anything but dead flats on ceilings. I have used 1/4 and mohairs to roll sheens on some highly decorative jobs, again, small rooms, but the walls have to be pristine. 1/4 and mohair are good for rolling sheen enamels on trim, like flush doors, cabinet bodys, wood paneled walls, etc. The real short naps leave a nice, uniform factory looking finish.

igneous 12-03-2011 08:33 AM

I really appreciate the feedback. I read somewhere where painters on "high end" jobs always finish with 1/4 nap for a smoother, less textured look/feel. Thus, I tried to follow in that method. Apparently, none of you guys agree. Any truth to that theory? You were quite specific on various uses, but I must ask, why is the 1/2 nap cover so widely preferred? Any reasons for NOT using the 1/4 nap? Didn't know 200 had a low sheen finish. I will give it a try. As always, thank you for your advice.

Brushjockey 12-03-2011 09:13 AM

The 1/2 will carry some material and move at twice the speed. Plus it is much easier to spread evenly when you have something to spread.
It is clear you live in the land of smooth walls- this makes a difference too- so do I.

jsheridan 12-03-2011 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brushjockey (Post 784725)
The 1/2 will carry some material and move at twice the speed. Plus it is much easier to spread evenly when you have something to spread.
It is clear you live in the land of smooth walls- this makes a difference too- so do I.

From the land of smooth walls. Used to be that you could roll flat with a 3/8. No more, ever. It just won't hold enough to do an effective job, as bj says. If I can roll a wall with five dips versus your ten, I'm getting it done twice as fast, putting more paint/better coverage, and you're twice as likely to have unsightly markings on your wall and skippers (holidays). Igneous, as to finishing off walls with successively finer naps, I don't think that does anything, as a heavier nap texture isn't going to be hidden by a lighter nap, but will make a hodgepodge texture. Have you ever seen a door that has been both rolled and brushed over it's lifetime? I would rate this in the hairbrain category of things I've seen online. sorry.
Joe

Gymschu 12-03-2011 12:21 PM

Like everyone has said, your roller just doesn't hold enough paint if it's 3/8 or less. I almost always use 1/2 inch & no one has complained that I know about.

igneous 12-03-2011 12:35 PM

OK. I'm sold on the 1/2 nap. Nice to know where to go for answers to popular painting problems. The "hodgepodge" image makes perfect sense. Thanks. Merry Christmas to all.

user1007 12-03-2011 02:14 PM

Look. The whole idea is to apply paint so in many years, I have never used anything less than 3/8 and usually go with 1/2 even for flat finishes. Chrisn climbed on me once for suggesting I can get a nice finish with semi-gloss using 3/4 on kitchen cabinet doors and so forth. Geezers who trained me would have slapped me if I showed up with 1/4 inch cover. As I remember, he says he can get a nice finish with 1/4 foam things. Same objective and same result I suspect. My cured film layer is probably going to hold up better? I don't know. He will pipe in here but would never suggest anything less than 3/8 for priming and finishing a wall?

I remember well a client complaining it took her husband ages to paint a masonry surface. I used a 1" or 1.5" nap roller and flew through the project like any other. Chased drips around mortar joints with a brush.

I did differ from other painters in that I seldom tried to make roller covers work from job to job. I bought nice ones, wrapped them in plastic and even stuck them in the frig until done. I just didn't see the logic in running fresh water, typically at 12gpm for 20-30 minutes to save, at my cost, $5 worth of roller cover.

Brushjockey 12-03-2011 02:32 PM

20-30min to clean a roller cover? :laughing:

3-4 tops

But that is a different discussion...

And we've had it, many times!

user1007 12-03-2011 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brushjockey (Post 785045)
20-30min to clean a roller cover? :laughing:

3-4 tops

But that is a different discussion...

And we've had it, many times!

True but point is the same. And I hope the discussion comes up again. 12 gallons per minute of fresh water my friend. 36-48 gallons of fresh water if you are as fast at rinsing $3-5 covers as you claim. I live in a State that is running out of fresh water. The utility that provides, or at least bills for it, is in Germany.

Brushjockey 12-03-2011 03:55 PM

Good point about the drought states. There are ways of reusing water- using less etc. Some even with plenty of water throw- some wash.
I'm a washer because I think Super fabs work better after a couple of washings.
But those that do it often find a system that works for them.
I'm not saying one is better.

Brushjockey 12-03-2011 03:56 PM

..and your water pressure must be awesome at 12gpm..

chrisn 12-03-2011 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sdsester (Post 785032)
Look. The whole idea is to apply paint so in many years, I have never used anything less than 3/8 and usually go with 1/2 even for flat finishes. Chrisn climbed on me once for suggesting I can get a nice finish with semi-gloss using 3/4 on kitchen cabinet doors and so forth.

Yes I did:yes:

Geezers who trained me would have slapped me if I showed up with 1/4 inch cover. As I remember, he says he can get a nice finish with 1/4 foam things.

No, I did not:no:

Same objective and same result I suspect. My cured film layer is probably going to hold up better? I don't know. He will pipe in here but would never suggest anything less than 3/8 for priming and finishing a wall?

No, I will not,I NEVER use anything less than a 1/2, but prefer Wooster 50,50 3/4 for all walls:whistling2:

I remember well a client complaining it took her husband ages to paint a masonry surface. I used a 1" or 1.5" nap roller and flew through the project like any other. Chased drips around mortar joints with a brush.

I did differ from other painters in that I seldom tried to make roller covers work from job to job. I bought nice ones, wrapped them in plastic and even stuck them in the frig until done. I just didn't see the logic in running fresh water, typically at 12gpm for 20-30 minutes to save, at my cost, $5 worth of roller cover.

I would also argue about the last papagraph but as Brush said it has been gone over and to each his(or her) own


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