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Old 02-24-2012, 10:23 AM   #1
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Hello all, I just purchased a new home and I am looking to paint the risers white. I have wood filler, coarse sandpaper, putty knife, and painters tape. Can someone please explain to me ( i have already googled it with no help) a step by step process in doing this. I have attached a picture. In addition, i am only painting the risers not the treads.

Thanks,

A
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Old 02-24-2012, 10:43 AM   #2
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First, thoroughly sand the risers and vacuum up the dust. Tape the edge of the tread where is meets the riser. Apply primer. After it dries, fill holes and whatnot with sand-able filler - I would personally use drydex. Wait for that to dry and sand. Prime sanded spots. Apply two coats of premium finish paint. Remove tape.

You might want to consider doing the stringers at the same time and you also may need to caulk any gaps between the treads and the riser, depending on their size the the look you are going for.

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Old 02-24-2012, 11:01 AM   #3
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Going to need a Mouse style sander to be able to get into all those corners.
I would use painters putty to fill the nail holes not wood filler.
Sand, vacuum, wipe down with mineral spirts on a lint free cloth (like a tee shirt) apply the tape, it has to be primer first (I would use Zinzeer 123), then two coats of an enamel paint.
Enamal is a very tough paint and will hold up to scrubbing when you get black scuff marks from shoes.
Enamel is avalible in water based and can come in 3, differant sheens. The shiner it is the easyer it is to clean.
I would add a base cap molding to those skirts, if not dust will lay on top of them.
http://www.woodworksofpeoria.com/base-cap-molding
I lot easyer to prime and paint the base cap before it goes up so your not fighting the walls.
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Old 02-24-2012, 02:16 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
Going to need a Mouse style sander to be able to get into all those corners.
I would use painters putty to fill the nail holes not wood filler.
Sand, vacuum, wipe down with mineral spirits on a lint free cloth (like a tee shirt) apply the tape, it has to be primer first (I would use Zinsser 123), then two coats of an enamel paint.
Enamel is a very tough paint and will hold up to scrubbing when you get black scuff marks from shoes.
Enamel is available in water based and can come in 3, different sheens. The shiner it is the easier it is to clean.
I would add a base cap molding to those skirts, if not dust will lay on top of them.
http://www.woodworksofpeoria.com/base-cap-molding
I lot easier to prime and paint the base cap before it goes up so your not fighting the walls.
wipe down with mineral spirits that will lead to adhesion problems imho
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Old 02-24-2012, 02:43 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Needsassitance View Post
Hello all, I just purchased a new home and I am looking to paint the risers white. I have wood filler, coarse sandpaper, putty knife, and painters tape. Can someone please explain to me ( i have already googled it with no help) a step by step process in doing this. I have attached a picture. In addition, i am only painting the risers not the treads.

Thanks,

A
I agree with most of what was said regarding the process. Sand thouroughly...either by hand or small palm type sander, prime next, fill holes, sand lightly, sweep up dust, wipe down with damp rag (NO THINNER), then paint.

The only part I didn't agree with that someone said was using thinner to wipe down with. Again, I use a damp rag.
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Old 02-24-2012, 04:40 PM   #6
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wipe down with mineral spirits that will lead to adhesion problems imho
I do believe mr joe knows very little about proper painting
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Old 02-24-2012, 04:42 PM   #7
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I do believe mr joe knows very little about proper painting
Was that out loud?! (hehe -true...)
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Old 02-24-2012, 04:44 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by BraniksPainting View Post
I agree with most of what was said regarding the process. Sand thouroughly...either by hand or small palm type sander, prime next, fill holes, sand lightly, sweep up dust, wipe down with damp rag (NO THINNER), then paint.

The only part I didn't agree with that someone said was using thinner to wipe down with. Again, I use a damp rag.

Guess who?

He also made this worthless comment in the SAME post
"Going to need a Mouse style sander to be able to get into all those corners".
AGAIN with the HORSE HOCKEY
I think I am going to have to come up with a much stronger term, any ideas?
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Old 02-24-2012, 05:39 PM   #9
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I just bought a corner sander, first one. I bought to strip poly from tread corners. I managed to practice my craft for twenty-five years or so without one. OP, save your money. And, I'll pile on with the thinner as a wipe. NO! Thinner will leave an oily residue on the surface and will impair adhesion. Heck, I would just sand it, dust it, and hit it.
And, just to nitpick, the risers don't really need primer. A good sanding and two coats of finish would be fine. On a pro job, I wouldn't be priming that.
OP, you probably have a lot of staple holes from the runner that was there. Take a lightweight vinyl spackle. It has a dry shave cream consistency. Overfill the holes, allow to harden and then sand them smooth as you're sanding the risers in prep for paint. You can then prime if you wish. Light sand after the primer and first coat of finish. As to caulking, unless you're a wizz, I would skip Windows' suggestion of caulking the risers to the tread. Generally, unless both sides of a gap are being painted, no caulk is done. Since the treads are not painted, not caulking is acceptable. You never find stained trim caulked to a painted wall.
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Old 02-24-2012, 10:42 PM   #10
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I think I am going to have to come up with a much stronger term, any ideas?
< speechless!
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Old 02-25-2012, 07:31 AM   #11
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Thank you all for your assitance, I plan on starting this project tomorrow, will keep you all updated. Thanks again.
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Old 02-25-2012, 07:35 AM   #12
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I just bought a corner sander, first one. I bought to strip poly from tread corners. I managed to practice my craft for twenty-five years or so without one. OP, save your money. And, I'll pile on with the thinner as a wipe. NO! Thinner will leave an oily residue on the surface and will impair adhesion. Heck, I would just sand it, dust it, and hit it.
And, just to nitpick, the risers don't really need primer. A good sanding and two coats of finish would be fine. On a pro job, I wouldn't be priming that.
OP, you probably have a lot of staple holes from the runner that was there. Take a lightweight vinyl spackle. It has a dry shave cream consistency. Overfill the holes, allow to harden and then sand them smooth as you're sanding the risers in prep for paint. You can then prime if you wish. Light sand after the primer and first coat of finish. As to caulking, unless you're a wizz, I would skip Windows' suggestion of caulking the risers to the tread. Generally, unless both sides of a gap are being painted, no caulk is done. Since the treads are not painted, not caulking is acceptable. You never find stained trim caulked to a painted wall.
Roger that, that seems easy enough. Thank you.
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Old 02-25-2012, 08:13 AM   #13
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I would recommend : if you are not able to do the job free hand without using tape, you may want to hire a professional painter. In my 31 years painting I have never trusted using tape. A professional painter will be able to cut the job in free hand and you won't have to deal paint that will seep behind the tape.
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Old 02-25-2012, 04:37 PM   #14
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I would recommend : if you are not able to do the job free hand without using tape, you may want to hire a professional painter. In my 31 years painting I have never trusted using tape. A professional painter will be able to cut the job in free hand and you won't have to deal paint that will seep behind the tape.

All well and good but this IS a DIY site.
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Old 02-25-2012, 07:15 PM   #15
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Well, we should stress that even with tape, DIYers should invest in good brushes. A nice 2.5-3" angled sash brush would be my choice. And then, maybe if they use tape as a safety, we should still encourage them to practice and see how little paint they can get on the tape?

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