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Old 02-21-2007, 10:10 PM   #16
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Resurfacing Drywall


Ok i skimmed over your responses. Now let the master come in. Any destroyed sheetrock facing, spray over with an oil based primer like KILZ.
A master fills and smoothes any holes with mud (joint compound) with a putty knife. I pull out any nails prior to that. Do a rough sand in, which means knock off any high areas by whatever grit you have on hand.
I use a cheap compressor and attach a texture gun or hopper($75 new at Lowes). Buy a bucket of joint compound (mud)and add a quart of water to loosen it up a bit, and stir it in by any means completely. Put it in the hopper and apply it at the finest setting. We dont want hugh wadds of mudd dripping down the wall. Higher the pressure, finer the spray pattern. 60 PSI is just fine. Dont put it on that heavy...two fives of mudd should do a 1400 square foot home. The mudd will cover a trillion wall imperfections. Paint when its dry. I own the hopper and for $25 in mudd I can give the home a whole new look front to back.

And for you knock down texture people. WHY KNOCK IT DOWN WHEN YOU CAN SAVE YOURSELF A TON OF WORK AND TEXTURE IT ON FINE. I DONT GET IT!!!
The look you will get it so close to knockdown texture and 1/2 the work.

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Old 02-22-2007, 06:00 AM   #17
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When I skim coated my house last year, I was having trouble leaving little ridges on the new mud...much like the washboards in a gravel road. The edge of the knife would chatter against the wall.

Fix: carry a small bottle with a squeeze trigger, when the mud seems to get too dry, give it a quick squirt of water. By the time I got to the last room of the house, I could leave the wall nearly perfectly smooth in about 1/3 third the time compared to when I started.

When I did have to sand, I switched from the mesh paper to the solid, it just seemed to leave a smoother finish. Good luck to ya, and I like the idea tossed out about having a 2 sanding heads.

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Old 02-22-2007, 07:55 AM   #18
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On a side note: Notice the guy in the first picture above wearing safety glasses and an air filter mask? Make sure you do the same thing and don't buy the cheapest mask in the store. In fact buy a couple masks. The dust created from sanding drywall is nasty stuff, espically when you inhale it.

I'm on the second day of sanding my bedroom ceiling (removed popcorn) and have to change out my mask. It's caked with white power.


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Old 03-13-2007, 08:47 PM   #19
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Getting ready to start my next project.

When I strip the wallpaper off, do I need to do any sanding or can I go straight to the priming?

My plan is still to trowel on mud in a couple of light coats to create a texture where the wall paper was.

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Old 03-13-2007, 09:53 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by shapeshifter View Post
Getting ready to start my next project.

When I strip the wallpaper off, do I need to do any sanding or can I go straight to the priming?

My plan is still to trowel on mud in a couple of light coats to create a texture where the wall paper was.

Yay, another project.

If the drywall is primed or sized, sand. If it's bare drywall don't sand. In either case, no need to prime, go straight to the trowel. Then prime the new mud.
Are you using a specific deco idea to trowel on the mud?

Last edited by joewho; 03-13-2007 at 09:58 PM.
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Old 03-13-2007, 11:30 PM   #21
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How do I know if the drywall was ever primed or sized and sanded? The wallpaper is peeling off in one piece, just like it went up.

I've been practicing on a scrap sheet with a light-weight mud and a large trowel. I'm thinking about:

--Troweling 2 or 3 lightweight coats, looking for a stucco or plaster like finish

--Troweling 1 or 2 lightweight coats and try for a knock-down like finish

--Troweling 1 or 2 lightweight coats and try to match what looks like an oval sponge off finish on the few walls in my house not wall-papered

--Troweling a light coat on and use a texturizing roller I got at my local lumbar company.

Ideas? Suggestions?
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Old 03-13-2007, 11:34 PM   #22
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Oops, not my local lumbar company, it's my local lumber company


ps the project i just competed was simple, just painting my guest bedroom.

I used some more of my famous upside down molding about 3" below the ceiling. Painted the molding and that strip the same color. Looks wonderful and my joints and miters were 100% better than the ones in the bathroom.
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Old 03-14-2007, 12:39 AM   #23
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Shapeshifter,

Would you do me a favor and start a new thread for this one?
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Old 03-14-2007, 02:44 PM   #24
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I'm looking into re-surfacing the drywall in my bedroom. Currently it has a really old plaster surface; where do I start? what tools are necessary?
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Old 03-14-2007, 06:14 PM   #25
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Jimmy,

Can I also ask that you start a new thread for your project?

I appreicate it, the mods appreciate it and the Site Admin. appreciates it.
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Old 08-13-2007, 01:20 PM   #26
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Nailfun.. Tremendous knowledge.. Thank you very much for sharing that insight. My lady & I just picked up a great project in Newburyport, MA. We too have managed to remove all the wallpaper. Additionally, my fiance with this being our first house has sort of jumped the gun and has applied latex primer white over the previos/orignal owners hideous colors. Will this resurfacing technique work over latex primer? I assume it will having done a modest amount of drywall work elsewhere. I'm just not familiar with this advanced technique. Looking forward to hitting the store for the sprayer as recommended in your previous string.

Thx!
-John
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Old 11-08-2008, 03:51 PM   #27
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I just finished skimcoating a previously wallpapered drywall and now I notice that in some areas the surface of the drywall in bubbly. Any recommendations?
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Old 11-10-2008, 08:28 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicky Maceranka View Post
I just finished skimcoating a previously wallpapered drywall and now I notice that in some areas the surface of the drywall in bubbly. Any recommendations?

First, you should move this to a new message...it'll get buried here.

You skim coated over the top of wall paper? You just did one of the hand full of things at least in my book that shouldn't EVER be done. It's difficult as you have found, to know when the wallpaper has a good bond to the drywall. The bubbly parts are those areas with poor adhesion, short of removing them and/or the wall paper, it'll be tough to fix.

Why were you skim coating the wall paper?

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