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Old 12-20-2013, 01:51 PM   #1
Rav
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Repainting old medicine cabinet - would appreciate comments


I'm planning on repainting an old 1930's medicine cabinet. On the exterior there's a lot of scuffing. Much of the interior is in good shape EXCEPT for the bottom shelf, which is in bad shape with rust and has been covered with contact paper the last few years. Besides repainting the exterior, I'm planning on repainting the entire interior, even though only the bottom shelf really needs it, because otherwise the existing and new paint color won't exactly match. The existing interior paint MAY be oil-based. The new paint will be as close in color as I can get it. I've included some pics below. Here's what I'm planning on doing; I'd appreciate any comments or suggestions. Thanks!

  1. Remove door from cabinet to make working on both easier.
  2. Remove all old paint and rust on the bottom shelf only, using a few assorted Dremel carbon steel brush bits, down to bare metal.
  3. Clean entire inside and out with Dirtex.
  4. Rough up surface of previously painted surfaces a little.
  5. Prime bottom shelf (bare metal) with Rustoleum primer, 2 coats.
  6. Prime inside and out with X-I-M UMA Primer-Sealer-Bonder or Zinsser B-I-N Primer.
  7. Paint with higher-end Benjamin Moore acrylic semi-gloss (2 coats), using Purdy brushes.
  8. Don't reattach door for a few weeks to make sure paint has fully cured, to avoid door rubbing/removing paint as much as possible.
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Old 12-20-2013, 04:05 PM   #2
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Repainting old medicine cabinet - would appreciate comments


That sounds like a pretty good plan to me with the possible exception of the dremmell on the bottom.
Real Good chance of lead paint if its from the 30's. I would definitely check it before you take a dremmell wheel or a sander to it. Chemical stripping to remove the old paint from the bottom first would be safer.
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Rav (12-20-2013)
Old 12-21-2013, 04:22 PM   #3
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Repainting old medicine cabinet - would appreciate comments


I would rattle can the inside of the cabinet. Its going to be a lot easier and look better since there will be no brush marks.
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Old 12-21-2013, 04:41 PM   #4
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Repainting old medicine cabinet - would appreciate comments


Quote:
Originally Posted by sacseven View Post
I would rattle can the inside of the cabinet. Its going to be a lot easier and look better since there will be no brush marks.
Thanks for the reply. But can I get Benjamin Moore acrylic semi-gloss in a spray can? At the very least the color from the can would have to match the BM used on the exterior. By the way, I had been planning on adding Floetrol to the paint to reduce brush marks.
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Old 12-21-2013, 10:08 PM   #5
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Repainting old medicine cabinet - would appreciate comments


Ben Moore acrylic enamel semi gloss will likely be tacky for a few weeks.

To have the least brush marks, use a flexible brush (I use wooster silver tip, or any of several others) and don't over brush it.
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Rav (12-22-2013)
Old 01-18-2014, 01:46 PM   #6
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Repainting old medicine cabinet - would appreciate comments


I'm done repainting the medicine cabinet! Thank goodness. I know areas where I could have done better, but it was a learning experience. After sanding, I ended up priming the rusty bottom with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer, priming with X-I-M UMA, and painting (brushing) with Ben Moore Advance, 2 coats. I've attached a before and some after pics. (The odd looking paint at the back panel edges is some sort of reflection; that's not the way it looks. Also the stains on the peach wall paint to the right of the mirror were already there.)

An issue: I know it will take weeks to fully cure, and even more for Advance, so I won't be closing the cabinet door until then. However, the door sits low and rubs against the bottom edge of the cabinet. There is some play in the hinge (between the portion attached to the door and the portion attached to the cabinet). I can move it up and down a little by pushing up from the bottom edge of the door, but of course with gravity it stays down. If I could get it to stay in the "up" position, I don't think it would rub. I couldn't remove the hinges before I started the work, and I can't now of course. Yup, I should have addressed this BEFORE painting. Anyway, I've attached two pics of the hinges, one in the down position and one with me holding it up. You can see the gap in the hinge. Is there some sort of cotter pin, or stiff piece of wire, or spacer, or something, that I could wrap around the "underneath" gap in the hinge so that the door would stay riding higher? Remember, I can't take the hinge off, so it can't be something like a washer. Thanks for any advice. / Rav

Edited to add: Another possibility for spacing?: A jump ring (for example, see http://www.jewelrysupply.com/Jump-Ri...cs_p_1594.html ).
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Last edited by Rav; 01-18-2014 at 02:10 PM.
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Old 01-19-2014, 01:57 PM   #7
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Repainting old medicine cabinet - would appreciate comments


In case anyone's interested, here's the solution I used to raise the medicine cabinet door a little so it wouldn't rub the bottom edge on the cabinet frame: I looked at ready-made retaining clips; all were too large and would have protruded. So I measured the gap between the hinge knuckles, got some 19ga. galvanized steel wire, lifted the door into it's higher up position, inserted the wire around both sides of hinge pin, pulled it tight into the channel between the two knuckles, cut off excess and pushed the ends in. Works perfectly. Maybe this solution will help someone else with the same issue someday.
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Old 01-19-2014, 03:22 PM   #8
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Repainting old medicine cabinet - would appreciate comments


Good job that's what it's all about. Now just stand back and say I DID THAT. should last about 5 minutes then she will put something else on the "honey do" list.
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