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Old 05-07-2013, 08:23 AM   #31
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Removing Wallpaper Then Painting Question


I bought a bag of the joint compound that sets in 90 minutes and decided to give it a go last night. I started by mesh taping all the drywall joint cracks as well as the larget crack below the hole in the picture. It seems like these cracks are mostly above the windows. I also 'painters taped' the tops of the windows to protect them of course. I threw a 6x6 metal patch over the large hole seen in the picture. I then proceeded to make my mud.

This first attempt, I made way too much, probably double what I needed. I mixed it directly in the mud pan, and I did not think I had that much water, but I ended up with too much mud. I got the mud to a consistency I wanted, a bit like sour cream is how it was described to me. I was able to apply a first coat to all the cracks in the kitchen as well as the patch I put up. After applying, the mesh tape is visable through the mud, a grey color. I imagine that after the 2nd and 3rd coats, I will no longer be able to see it? It was late, so I did not go any further.

My plan tonight is, go in and sand all the cracks where I added mud, mix more mud (hopefully the correct amount) and finish the living room and start with a second coat in the kitchen.

One question I do have, the mud when wet is a grey color, when it dries, is it fairly light?
My original plan was the prime everything with gardz and then paint vs applying an additional latex primer and obviously I do not want where I fixed areas to show up. We are using a light baby blue in the kitchen as well as a light green in the living room. I suppose the only real test is to try it.

Overall thoughts?

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Old 05-07-2013, 07:13 PM   #32
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Removing Wallpaper Then Painting Question


Yes it is grey and yes Gardz is a primer. Remember to feather out farther with each coat. And make your final coat the lightweight in the blue bucket, not hot mud. And it is normal to see the mesh after the first coat. The hot mud will stay pretty gray when dry.
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:33 AM   #33
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Yes it is grey and yes Gardz is a primer. Remember to feather out farther with each coat. And make your final coat the lightweight in the blue bucket, not hot mud. And it is normal to see the mesh after the first coat. The hot mud will stay pretty gray when dry.
Returned the RX-35 stuff that home depot recommended and went on to their website and order a 5 gallon container of Gardz, odd that they do not have it in store any more but have it on their site. I hope that this will be enough for the three rooms I am working in.

I am planning on doing the second coat of hot mud tonight - I will take some pictures but I do have some questions as I have never done this before.
-When apply the mud I was having a little excess and then spreading that not much further than the mesh tape (first coat) - How 'hard' do I want to spread it out with my taping knife.. That is am I trying to really 'scrape' any extra mud off, or am I just using a little bit of pressure and getting the exessive amount off?
-Does the technique change as additional coats are added, other than feathering out further?
-How much am I feathering out for a drywall seem? - The ones in the house that are not completely taped are rather small, see pictures on first page.


Any other advice regarding mudding is appreciated. My primary resource has been youtube, but you never know what kind of advice you are getting.

Thanks!!
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:31 AM   #34
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I think watching on Utube is better than trying to put into words- why don't you put the links here for which one's you have found helpful.

- 1st coat beds tape- couple of inches past tape, second fills and flattens- maybe 6" past tape. 3 rd (which should be the premixed sandable) 9-12" out.

Dry blade off any ridges from the proceeding coat before applying next coat.
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Old 05-08-2013, 04:42 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by splintner View Post
Returned the RX-35 stuff that home depot recommended and went on to their website and order a 5 gallon container of Gardz, odd that they do not have it in store any more but have it on their site. I hope that this will be enough for the three rooms I am working in.

I am planning on doing the second coat of hot mud tonight - I will take some pictures but I do have some questions as I have never done this before.
-When apply the mud I was having a little excess and then spreading that not much further than the mesh tape (first coat) - How 'hard' do I want to spread it out with my taping knife.. That is am I trying to really 'scrape' any extra mud off, or am I just using a little bit of pressure and getting the exessive amount off?
-Does the technique change as additional coats are added, other than feathering out further?
-How much am I feathering out for a drywall seem? - The ones in the house that are not completely taped are rather small, see pictures on first page.


Any other advice regarding mudding is appreciated. My primary resource has been youtube, but you never know what kind of advice you are getting.

Thanks!!

You will have enough to do the whole house twice
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Old 05-08-2013, 05:01 PM   #36
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Removing Wallpaper Then Painting Question


You can sell the remainder to Gardz deprived neighbors!
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Old 05-08-2013, 06:00 PM   #37
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Or we could bring the craft I miss most next to macrame plant hangers back...

Decoupage.

Gardz would be the perfect primer over anything, even over what's her name's faved liquid plaster/cheap hobby acrylic over fine furniture with no need for prep paint. Annie something stuff.

Since it offers no protection itself, anymore than raw plaster does, leftover Gardz would be perfect. I find myself actually saving tiny empty bottles that once had sterile saline in them.

I bet, if I put my mind to it. I could sell Gardz to crafting women for $14.38 a tiny bottle (so I could factor in new internet sales tax to make it an even $15 on their credit cards) if I packaged four bottles with a stir stick! People will buy anything on or shipped with a stick. I would have to rename the stuff though so will be thinking about that.

Send your extra Gardz to me with a funnel.

I will send you the address in Maryland or around Cape May, NJ to charge the FedEx bill.
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Old 05-09-2013, 04:16 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by sdsester View Post
Or we could bring the craft I miss most next to macrame plant hangers back...

Decoupage.

Gardz would be the perfect primer over anything, even over what's her name's faved liquid plaster/cheap hobby acrylic over fine furniture with no need for prep paint. Annie something stuff.

Since it offers no protection itself, anymore than raw plaster does, leftover Gardz would be perfect. I find myself actually saving tiny empty bottles that once had sterile saline in them.

I bet, if I put my mind to it. I could sell Gardz to crafting women for $14.38 a tiny bottle (so I could factor in new internet sales tax to make it an even $15 on their credit cards) if I packaged four bottles with a stir stick! People will buy anything on or shipped with a stick. I would have to rename the stuff though so will be thinking about that.

Send your extra Gardz to me with a funnel.

I will send you the address in Maryland or around Cape May, NJ to charge the FedEx bill.

hey, watch it bub
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Old 05-09-2013, 07:11 AM   #39
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I bought a bag of the joint compound that sets in 90 minutes
Maybe I missed something here, but why the heck are you messing with setting compound? If you can wait overnight, and you have no particular need for extra strength or cold weather setting, I don't see why you'd mess with it.
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:08 AM   #40
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Maybe I missed something here, but why the heck are you messing with setting compound? If you can wait overnight, and you have no particular need for extra strength or cold weather setting, I don't see why you'd mess with it.
I have no perticular reason other than it was recommended, unless I missed something as well. As far as I understood it, it was recommended that 'hot' mud would be a good choice, back on the first page. Is that not what this is?

At this point - it is already done, am 2 coats in, in the kitchen, and one in the living room.

After the second coat of the compound, do I apply a third of the lightweight, or is it three coats of the setting compound and then 1 coat of lightweight - 4 total?
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:11 AM   #41
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Removing Wallpaper Then Painting Question


Here is the original issue --




Here are a couple updated pictures of the largest hole and the crack over the kitchen sink. This is after the second coat of compound - still a little wet in the picture.




Here is a couple of the living room - where there are cracks between the drywall above the doors and windows. This was after the first coat.




Thoughts?
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Old 05-11-2013, 06:35 AM   #42
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The patch looks good, but on the verticals I would recommend along the edges sand off some of the texture along the edge maybe at least a couple inches. Then apply your pre mixed, that will get rid of that edge of your patch that is so noticeable.
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Old 05-11-2013, 07:22 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by splintner View Post
I have no perticular reason other than it was recommended, unless I missed something as well. As far as I understood it, it was recommended that 'hot' mud would be a good choice, back on the first page. Is that not what this is?

At this point - it is already done, am 2 coats in, in the kitchen, and one in the living room.

After the second coat of the compound, do I apply a third of the lightweight, or is it three coats of the setting compound and then 1 coat of lightweight - 4 total?
I can't find where this is recommended. I mean it's completely fine, but it's a pain and probably overkill in this case. You use it when you don't have time to wait for regular compound to dry. It is a little stronger too, if you need that.

Technically, you only need 1 coat of compound. After that, it's all aesthetic. So if you can do it in 2, 3, or 4 coats is all up to you. But I definitely wouldn't mess with setting compound anymore unless you enjoy it :-) The final coat can be watered down a bit (stir in a bit of water to your premixed compound). That helps it go on more smoothly around the outside edges. You are just filling in the final little depressions to make it perfectly smooth on this coat.

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